Category Archives: pubs and bars

Ever Tried Laotian?

Poised at the northern precipice of the KR catchment area, we recently paid a visit to PSV café near Lambeth North tube. The café serves Laotian and Thai food but, as we’ve all had Thai a million times, we came ready to inspect the Lao food, which is a very hard to come by option in London. PSV is located above a delightful, down to earth local pub called the Crown and Cushion which is well worth a visit in its own right. The punters at PSV café were a mix of locals and perplexed  tourists who, when they booked their hotel around the corner, could have sworn the website said it was in Waterloo.  

Gunther from our graphic design department chose the Laab Ped, a spicy duck dish. This was marked on the menu as “two chillies” hot which he thought was fair: spicy, not burning. Interestingly, the duck was almost minced in very small pieces and apparently contained liver and gizzard. It had an earthiness from these, paired with the chilli garlic kick and garlic. The inclusion of ground roasted rice created a surprising, but fun, crunch element. All of this came with some salad and raw vegetables. Gunther thought it a hit, especially for lovers of chicken liver (even if this was duck!), even if his gratitude for being given as free meal was a bit, shall we say, paltry

Your scribe consumed Goi Pa, which consisted of sweet and sour raw salmon cured and briefly marinated and served as a very spicy salad. It was seasoned with the magic of chili powder and added to the mix was mint, coriander, spring onions, roasted rice, red onion, and lifted up with the addition of fish sauce and lemon juice. The mix of mint and fish sauce was particularly interesting, as was the heat of the overall dish. If you’re unfamiliar with Laotian fare, think of it as a hybrid of Chinese and Vietnamese. Both dishes included sticky rice served in a fetching basket/handbag contraption.

On the drinks front, Singha beer is the only option which is perfectly understandable. The cheery and well drilled staff pointed out that drinks can be purchased at the bar and brought upstairs. Of course, we will allow you to have Thai at PSV if you insist (but don’t) but we suspect that serving Thai food is more of a side hustle to get people in the door, and their real passion lives in their Lao food which is hearty, healthy and spice tastic.

Mc and Sons

Let’s us first pay homage to the pub that used to inhabit this domain. It was the Royal Oak in Kennington Lane (next to the Eagle) and was one of Greater Kennington’s last authentic working mans’ pubs. Sadly it went under last year, but not by the hands of current landlords John and Ryan McElhinney, who run a small chain of pubs in Waterloo/Southwark.  Luckily we used to go to the Royal Oak (Ok, we went once) and we can confirm that Mc and Sons has retained many of the original features from its previous incarnation including the bar and fireplace and have given the place an Irish twist, this being the theme of their five pubs. 

We visited Mc and Sons to inspect their Thai menu but of course there are a range of drinks available. Pints on offer include Madri, Session, Camden Pale and Stout, and something called ‘It’s the Hope That Kills You’. At £6.50 they could have called it ‘It’s The Price That Kills You’ but this is London after all. And one can always have a cocktail, a glass of wine or, for the rebels, a soft drink.

Karen from finance chose Chiang Mai chicken pieces followed by Pad Graw Prow. For a starter, the chicken pieces are a generous portion; strips of chicken thigh fried with a dry rub. This comes through moderately spicy, with undertones of lemongrass, and is served with a sweet chilli sauce for dipping. This would equally serve well as a shareable bar snack if you didn’t want a full meal. Karen pronounced her tofu Pad Gras Prow as ‘not for the faint of heart’. This was exceedingly spicy, possibly due to not being able to avoid the sliced chillies which she said were tricky to spot in the atmospheric lighting (and without her glasses). As Karen is on a health kick she chose her Prow with tofu, which was generous and filled the bowl/plate nicely and was topped with a fried egg. 

Your scribe indulged in drunken noodles, which consisted of thick rice noodles stir fried with a bit of egg, an abundance of mixed vegetables all mixed nicely in a stir fry with oyster and fish sauce. The prawns were very generous, but the dish had even more heat than Karen’s, so I had to beg John and Ryan for some water. Nonetheless, both dishes have officially been declared  triumph: Lots of ingredients in the tin bowl along with proper Jasmine rice and a gorgeous Thai basil-lime-chilli-ginger flavour. It’s a flavour hit if you can stand the heat, so is highly recommended. 

As for the demographic, it is mostly comprised of white, straight millennials with spare money who like to laugh and enjoy a restrained night out. That describes basically no one at Runoff Towers but that’s just fine, as we appeared to fit in nevertheless, and so will you. And we’re loving the snug at the front of the pub with its own private bar hatch. FYI, if you’re going to dinner you need to give them a ring as it’s not possible to book on their website. 

Amici Summer Party

At the Runoff we pride ourselves on making our reviews totally anonymous, sometimes to the frustration of business owners, and don’t ask for freebies. So we lay our cards on the table and admit to kind of knowing Houman and Seti who run Kennington Cross restaurant staple Amici, and we’re here to tell you about their upcoming summer party because it’s fun and good value for money. 

Let’s face it, few restaurants in Greater Kennington appear to be flourishing at the minute and Amici is no exception. Amici has survived the dual indignities of a pandemic and a basement flood (three if you count the time they decided to sell clothes and jewellery) resulting in its closure for almost two years, leading to it almost going under. They’re back with a mixture of Mediterranean and Iranian dishes and a few events to get more people through the door. 

The Amici summer party is on Thursday, 21 September at the restaurant and costs £10. We think this is good value for money as it gets you two drinks in their cute pop up stalls in the back previously sponsored by Lillet and Beefeater, but apparently now with a rum twist. Houman and Seti will also be walking around with some of their Iranian greatest hits.* Additionally there will be a band and a host of neighbours to talk to. Tickets can be purchased here and the fun kicks off at 7pm. Your ticket also entitles you to 25% off future meals.

*We stand casually yet strategically near the kitchen to grab said delicacies as the platters emerge. 

Cue Point London @ Orbit Brewery

Frequent Runoff readers are aware that we have our own micro independent brewery right here in Greater Kennington (Walworth) and we’re fans (Read our review here). Mind you, we could be bigger fans of their tadziki flavoured beer but you can’t have everything in life and we respect that culinary endeavour. Orbit has rotating guest chefs and for quite some time the kitchen has been home to Cue Point London, an acclaimed and delicious street food brand specialising in Afghan BBQ and brisket.  

Under the sobriquet of ‘gorgeous and very hungry members of the public’, KR staff got chatting with chef and Cue Point founder Mursal Saiq and she informed us that she was born in Afghanistan, lived in India, and is now based in the UK. Her menus embrace these backgrounds with huge inspiration from recipes passed down from her mother. Everything is made either on site or in a nearby kitchen (including the to die for naan bread), and Mursal added with enthusiasm that one objective of Cue Point is to help refugees and immigrants in the hospitality sector. We’re hooked already, so let’s eat….

Cedric, our office junior who needs to work on his timekeeping, went for the headline item on the menu: 14 hr Oak Smoked Beef Brisket Steak served with Afghan naan, jalapeño jam and Chef’s pickles. Cedric claims to have travelled extensively in the southern US and noted that the four large slabs of brisket, showing good bark (burned edges), resembled closely what he had seen in the BBQ joints there. The meat was very moist from a long, slow cooking. The Afghan twist was in being served on flat naan and with a spicier sauce than you’ll find in Texas. 

Your scribe had the naan taco mix featuring thee tacos presented in naan bread. The vegan taco was based on a smoky aubergine and pickle and Mursal informed us that she even makes her own vegan mayo. The other was generously crammed with the brisket that Cedric ordered, and a surprisingly smoky and almost sweet chicken was the main feature of the third.  Thoroughly yummy, including the little pickles to cut through some of the richness. At £15 these mains were good value: higher quality than, say, Bodean’s yet at a lower price.

To add to our carnivorous evening we had cheese and herb croquettes and cheesy potato skins, which weren’t skins as much as they were giant potatoes anointed with gooey cheese. Cue Point make all their sauces in house, and they’re all great. Double down on the Afghan chutney, jalapeno jam, and aioli for dipping everything in. And in the unlikely event that there’s any left over, take the sauce home but you’ll probably be drinking it by the time you get to Kennington Lane. But don’t take our work for it, as even foodie god Jay Rayner is in on the act.

Return of the Duchy Arms

We sometimes worry about the fate the Duchy Arms pub in Sandcroft street as it suffers from BPL syndrome (Bad Pub Location) and people forget that it exists. It also appears to have had more chefs than Boris Johnson has kids.  However, it very much does still exist and has a huge beer garden for us all to enjoy in this warm weather. 

When we arrived we were a bit unsettled by the lack of people in the garden (which used to be a car park). That didn’t prevent us from drinking quickly and then ordering food. Your scribe chose from the a la carte menu and had the breast of chicken with roasted potatoes. The substantial chicken was lemony and lightly crusted and served with a rich and creamy wild mushroom sauce. The roasted potatoes were slightly peppery and pleasingly greasy. Our new intern Pam had the creamy mussels marinière which she deemed to be good quality and generously sized, with plenty of garlic.

Phil from accounts chose from the pub menu as he spends most of his life in pubs and it offered pub classics: burgers, fish and chips. The burgers were also substantial and featured bacon and cheddar as standard. The meat patties were thick and homemade, there was a good Mac-style burger sauce, and the fries alongside were decent. However, when we asked the server if the fries had ever been in a VERY cold place she giggled and changed the topic. As the evening continued it appeared that the BPL curse had been lifted as the Duchy began to fill up with people relaxing after working out, dates, and people generally out for a good time. 

In addition to the satisfying food and quiet atmosphere, the Duchy also has nice staff and they even brought our drinks to the table. And if that isn’t good enough, all of their meat is sourced from PJ Frankland & Sons in Vauxhall. And you haven’t discovered it yet, then get with the programme as Franklands is a friendly family business run by a sister and brother.

Eco Chamber Free Event

Like a pig to a truffle, you can be assured that we here at the Runoff are always sniffing out free stuff for you to do. St. Mary’s Eco Church has been created by Lambeth Palace and Southwark Diocese in response to the climate and biodiversity crisis. Once a month they organise free and mind expanding talks called the ‘Eco Chamber’ and the next one is coming up right here in our manor. 

The upcoming Eco Chamber will be chaired by Radio 4’s Point of View Presenter Tommy Shakespeare and he’ll be joined Green Peer Baroness Jenny Jones and Professor Joanna Haigh. The topic will be the elimination fossil fuels and carbon emissions and questions if Net Zero initiatives will be sufficient to do this. Their talks will be followed by a group discussion and all are encouraged to ‘join is with juice, a glass of wine or a beer’. The venue is the Duchy Arms pub in Sancroft Street. 

The Eco Chamber takes place on 18 April and free tickets can be obtained here. And it’s a good thing that it is being held at the Duchy Arms, as the place seems go through more management changes than the Tory party and we’re a bit concerned about their future. 

Email Sharon if you have any questions: hello@stmarysecochurch.org

Ten Best Places to Eat in Greater Kennington

+ One Sunday Roast

#8 The Jolly Gardeners

The number eight spot goes to the only pub in our countdown, The Jolly Gardeners in Vauxhall. The Gardeners sprang to life in 2021 and now occupies the same kitchens formerly used by a German themed pub, which we once correctly described as ‘food best enjoyed when you’re not entirely sober’. But fear not, the Gardeners boys and their sustainable and well sourced kitchen know what they’re doing. And it’s 50% vegan. 

The menu at the Gardeners changes periodically, but at the time of writing (March 2023) we’ve enjoyed a cauliflower wings (a bit of a staple), lightly grilled leek with almonds, and the breaded cod filet swimming in spinach cream sauce with kale. The format in this huge pub is that it is 50% is set out as a dining room with the other half as a pub, but food can be consumed in both. The pub also features an outside dining/drinking area that rather reminds us of a ski lodge or sauna. 

While it might have missed out on the top spot in terms of Sunday roasts, we can definitely recommend the Gardener roasts. As the food keeps coming it almost has an ‘all you can eat’ element to it. In the past we’ve enjoyed the silverside beef and Dorset lamb. Also keep your eagle eye out for their spicy peri peri fries and mustard green salad. On the drinks front, they work hard to source from local breweries such as Coalition or even closer ones from Brixton. 

The Gardeners guys also operate a zippy little sandwich place two doors down called Simply Bread. When asked if one of the sandwich makers is none other than Mick Hucknall himself, the 20 something employee replied with a perplexed stare. 

Christmas Day Pubs

If, during lunch on Christmas Day, Aunty Faye continues to witter on about her bursitis to the extent that you start thinking about ramming a carrot into your eye socket, then we have an idea for you.  Why not head to the pub! We’ve done some hunting and have tracked down the pubs (and there aren’t many) that are open on Christmas Day.  And they are….

The Fentiman Arms – Oval/Vauxhall 

The Three Stags – Lambeth North

 The Prince of Wales – Kennington 

White Bear Pub – Kennington 

Please be aware that to the best of our knowledge these pubs are only open in the daytime. However, we’ve just received confirmation that one of our favourite pubs, the Steam Engine will be open until midnight! It’s  on the edges of Greater Kennington, in Lambeth North, but well work the walk to avoid having to get a carrot extracted from your eye.  

Best Pub Quizzes in Greater Kennington

After a long day at Runoff Towers, a gaggle of us hopped over to gastro pub The Rose in Albert Embankment to bask in their pub quiz, among other temptations. The quiz is held upstairs and MC’ed by a slightly bumbling but endearing American chap who ironically lays on some very, very tricky questions involving songs, maps, letter games and general trivia (mind bending picture round clues below). There are free drink questions and prizes to be won and on our night the jackpot was at £200. The crowd was very convivial but contained, and there wasn’t a cheating mobile in sight. 

On the food front, it pains us to say that the mains had, well, spent most of their short lives in a freezer. However, some of the starters were very tasty and we can recommend the calamari. And, as if arisen from the ashes, there  was a pop up menu selection from the short lived Kennington Cross burger joint Rare Burger Co. which looked more enticing. The Rose pub quiz is on Monday nights from 19:00 and can be reserved on their website. Time well spent after a day at work. 

If you like a bit of stand up injected into your pub quiz, we highly recommend the quiz at The Old Red Lion pub in Kennington Park Road. Hosted by the deadpan and pseudo legendary ‘Paul Partridge Experience’, there is often a theme (music is common) and games such as throwing rings around bottles or dancing. Listen closely and he will manage to insult most celebrities, and even if ask himself existential questions such as ‘how did my life end up like this’. The Old Red Lion pub quiz is on Sunday nights from 20:00 and can be reserved on their website

Paul Partridge, Quiz supremo.

And if you’re wondering if team Runoff won the pub quiz then let me be the first to tell you that we didn’t. That honour was bestowed on the young men with great hair who scored our quiz sheet, who then eagerly informed us that they live in north London and are great friends from Uni. We resisted the urge to say ‘oh yeah, well we all work at an imaginary publishing house so TAKE THAT’ and throw our crumpled quiz sheet at them. 

The Rosy Hue

On its opening night we paid a clandestine visit to Elephant Square’s newest baby, The Rosy Hue pub. The Hue is the seventh offering of independent chain Livelyhood, all being based in south London. The pub is modern and airy, in the ‘exposed ducts and wires’ manner that’s all the rage at the moment. The eating side is divided by the pub side by a useful screen. And the place is so deliciously on trend that they even brag about their MISMATCHED and RECLAIMED cutlery! And they even show you just where in south London their beers and spirits come from ON A MAP! 

The draught beers and ciders on offer are diverse and all come in at around £6, which seems surreally normal nowadays. The usual complement of spirits line the bar and wine list not too damaging on the pocket, and we had a Spanish white. The menu is short but interesting, featuring veg and vegan options. For starters, we enjoyed brisket croquettes (£8) and were presented with five two-bite croquettes that had a lovely smooth and soft Spanish quality to them with a meaty brisket twist. 

For the mains, your scribe had a crab & haddock fishcake (£15.5) which was thickly breaded and very generous with the meat. A well poached egg mounted the cake. The real zinger came with the sauce, which was lobster and champagne. Fancy! Karen from finance had the bavette steak (£18.50) which was cooked perfectly rare as requested, sliced and served with a chimichurri sauce with pomegranate. That added sweetness was unexpected but worked. Rosemary fries alongside were crisp and plentiful. Any more details escaped Karen as she’d had too much Spanish white. 

As for the vibe, as we went the night the Queen died we couldn’t actually describe it as ‘zany and upbeat’, but it certainly tried. The crowd was predominantly white 30 somethings with nice teeth who probably reside in those new Elephant flats with geographically bizarre names such as ‘Central Park West’. But those who do not fit that demographic (like us) are welcome. There were also a curious number of dogs. 

The service staff at the Hue were surprisingly knowledgeable about the joint considering they’d only worked there for about five minutes, but be warned. The place also has huge, looming TV screens. So you’re forever at risk of the horrifying spectacle of, in the middle of your burger, the screens switching over to Sky Sports.  But those looming screens will also be showing the Queen’s funeral on Monday morning which sounds a bit morbid. We’ll be there.