The Dragon Flame @ Orbit Brewery
The never ending top ten list has now reached a glistening climax and multi award winner 24 The Oval has been overthrown by….wait for it…a Brewery! Yes, a tiny pop up in our very own Orbit Brewery in Walworth has stolen the crown. And trust us, we tried on a lot of crowns to anoint this little gem. And most had thorns.
The Dragon Flame is the latest food resident at Orbit and has an emphasis on smoked meats that carries through to the special Sunday Roasts menu that contains a number of smoked options alongside the traditional Sunday Roast trimmings. Our guest chose oak-smoked beef brisket (£24.95) on the basis that brisket is the most classic of smoked meats and a good measure of meat-smoking expertise. Also on the basis that it cost the most and they knew they were getting a freebie. But the freebie was a winner: generous strips of deeply, but not overpoweringly, smoked strips of brisket arrived draped over the classic vegetables. The brisket itself was soft and tender from a long session in the smoker.
Your scribe had the oak smoked half chicken roast (£22.50). Properly smoked chicken has a deep savoury, tender and intense flavour and this ticked all those boxes, in addition to being juicy and moist. The carrots and parsnips still had some bite and roast potatoes were flavourful. We were pleased to see braised red cabbage, its sweetness complementing the smoky meat well. Sealing the deal as a high quality plate were an enormous and perfect home-made Yorkshire pudding and generous red wine “jus” (that’s posh for gravy).
The Dragon Flame is a very hot new entrant to the Kennington Sunday roast scene and we hope it makes other pubs up their two overcooked veg stodge game. Of course, it’s not cheap: even the vegan option is £18.50. However, this strikes an excellent balance between taking a bit of a new direction (smoked meats) yet keeping all the crowd-pleasing Sunday Roast elements you expect. That you can enjoy this alongside one of Orbit’s excellent range of beers surely seals the deal. We’ve given a swerve around their tzatziki flavoured beer until they run out of all the others, but you might be more adventurous.
