Positives: Kennington Tandoori gets most of the press, but its problems with customer service linger despite the business being handed on from one generation to the next. What edges it for us is Gandhi’s extraordinarily cheap vegetable thali and particularly the dal – simply the best we’ve ever had. They don’t do the thali for takeaway but if you ask them nicely, they might.

Negatives: Kennington Tandoori has nicer premises, especially in summer when its front can be opened. If you want fancy and modern and you don’t mind playing by their rules, go to the KT. Gandhi’s is more of a traditional curry house and menu.