Owning to our upcoming totally scientific yet utterly subjective top 10 best places to eat in Greater Kennington, we’ve just made a revisit to Kennington Cross staple Kennington Tandoori.

Our recent sucking up to rapprochement of the Observer senior management team was furthered on this evening by extending an invitation to Ella, who is our Creative Consulting director. We have no idea what she actually does  but the title reeks of responsibility, so the meal was on us. Ella is apparently a massive fan of Biryani, and she ordered Lamb Dum Pukht. Presented in a pastry case, Ella described the meal as benefitting from being cooked in  this manner as  it resulted in succulent, slow cooked lamb with complex fluffy basmati and a range of spices. The dominate notes of the spices being saffron, ginger/garlic and slightly sweet and acidic kick, possibly lime.

Such a forensic description of a dish left your scribe at a bit of a loss to describe the Agara chicken with roasted cumin. This was from the tandoor (we love a tandoor) and had a slow burning heat element mitigated by a yogurthy and garlic sauce. The roasted cumin presented a nutty and smoky feel in the mouth which lived on long after the meal. Mostly as seeds between our teeth. It came with a salad highlighted with pickled onions.

KT if you’re reading this, we love your interior of low lights, dark wood, banquettes, and the subtle nod to the subcontinent. You also embrace all of the qualities that we demand from a London curry joint. Namely, balaclaved dudes bursting in to grab a Just Eat order, a curious sense of being overstaffed, and brusque service by militarily efficient,  middle aged men who’ve worked there since the dawn of time. Keep up the good work!