Jack the Chipper

We just paid an Observer visit to new Chippie on the block and it’s the unfortunately named ‘Jack the Chipper’ in Sayer St. in Elephant. It’s part of a micro franchise and this third location is run by a father and daughter team. It exists as both a takeaway and as a higher priced dine in establishment with other options to order such as burgers and pasta (but don’t). On this occasion we were accompanied by Marsha from Business Support, who needed her spirits lifted after worrying that she was about to be replaced by AI (she is).

Jack the Chipper works as both a traditional fish and chips takeaway service but also, with the same menu but higher prices, as a dine-in restaurant. This isn’t like the chippies with a few afterthought tables, but a proper restaurant experience with full table service, and a bar. The menu covers all the chippie classics, including sides such as mushy peas or pickled onions. Marsha ordered haddock and chips. While she was chewing she noted is that the batter was light and the fish tasted fresh. The chips are proper, thick, chip shop chips, made in-house without resorting to Mr McCain or a freezer. There are even reassuringly large bags of potatoes out front.

Your scribe ordered the frankly quite fancy sounding grilled seabass with cherry tomatoes. Playfully assorted was garlic, lemon parsley, capers and baby potatoes. The seabass flaked easily and had a delicate, mildly sweet flavour. Each portion comes with tartare sauce and lemon, as is correct procedure and salt and malt vinegar was on the table. We could have done with a bit more tartare sauce; I’m sure we would have been granted had we asked With an airy ambience to the restaurant and substantial outside seating, this is a good place to stop. We feel reassured that everything was of high quality, which it should be for £22

At the Observer we pride ourselves on being the least ‘woke’ site you’ll find, but we draw a line under your name, Jack. Ten years ago it might have been very clever to name your gaff after a serial killer of vulnerable women but its 2026 and its not on. When you arrive at that giant deep fat fryer in the sky you’ll understand this, but hopefully before. In spite of the name we hope Marsha had a nice evening as she wistfully and correctly pined ‘this might be the last time I eat out for a while’.

Koi in Sayer Street…Seriously Good Ramen

Taking an intern to lunch is a perfect way to bond, with the handy goal of getting them to undertake tasks no one wants to do. It was with this spirit that your scribe invited Tighe on a lunch to Koi ramen bar in Sayer St. in Elephant Park.

Koi is a small chain and this venue has a cosy post industrial look balancing the aesthetics of the furniture aisle at Ikea with a bondage/sex club. Intern Tighe bouncily suggested that we start with gyoza and then promptly ordered a £3 can of Italian soda, while your scribe opted for the freely flowing tap water. The gyoza was crunchy, full of chicken, and of course served up with vinegar soy and added chives.

Tighe indulged in the pork ‘Old Skool Shoyu’ which is fundamentally a soy based broth with umami boosters kelp and shitake mushrooms. He described it as full of flavour with the noodles perfectly cooked but with the added comment that it ‘could have been better with more pork’. On the way to the toilet your scribe whispered ‘ingrate’ and then enjoyed a perfectly chicken filled shoyu with bone in thighs, a rich and slightly soy base with the added bay boys of ginger, green onions and garlic. The base was obviously slow cooked and delicious.

As with all good Japanese joints, one of the great things about Koi is that you can witness the food being created before your eyes, so we suggest sitting at the bar. Overall, this is a cheap(ish) dinner but the lunch is more of an indulgence. With the unneeded addition of Tighe’s gyoza and bougie Italian water, the bill came to £30, So Tighe, we’d like to introduce you to the world of stapling and fax machines. And we wish you the best……

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