Tarns

Through the years we’ve written a great deal about the way in which Greater Kennington evolves and develops, but rarely about how it revolves and becomes something similar to what it was before. Thus is the case with Elephant and Castle, which was once a hub for swishy shopping, dining and entertainment for the bourgeoisie and is on the precipice of revolving into that guise yet again.

In previous generations destination hubs were anchored by a department store and some of these still exist, such as Morleys in Brixton. In Elephant it was the mighty Tarns, whose massive footprint roughly matched that of the impending shopping centre. Tarns was a remarkable business empire which employed hundreds, and perhaps the very person who lived in your current digs. Local folk and people throughout London flocked to Tarns for departments which varied from  baby linen to haberdashery and parasols to teas. We were particularly intrigued by the ‘mourning wear’ department, and have delicious images of a person rocking up in floods of tears saying “I am DEVASTED that auntie Flo has passed but I was looking for a black strapless anyway so now seems as good a time as any”.

Tarns was a staple of Greater Kennington for decades and the department store craze revolutionized the way people, most notably women, shopped. No longer did people have to dodge puddles only to end up having to haggle for the price of an apple, and you could just browse. Sadly, during the Blitz the Elephant was almost completely obliterated and our mighty Tarns then went to that giant Milliner in the sky. So when you’re juggling that shiny apple in the new M&S in the shopping centre spare a thought for those apple buyers that came before.

Open House London 2026

It’s that time of year again and one of our favourite activities here at the Observer….sticking our noses where they don’t belong! From 12 September to 20 September ii’s the Open House London Festival, celebrating London’s housing, architecture and neighbourhoods by flinging open doors and streets not usually open to the public. We have a few suggestions for you and they are all FREE, and we love free. 

Most Open House venues have friendly staff on hand to tell you more about what you’re seeing and there are often things to read. If you look on the website you’ll see some local bookable things, but we’re afraid you’ve mostly missed the boat on those babies. The localish venues listed below are open to the public on specific dates, so look at opening times. However, if you possess the audacious gaul to travel out of Greater Kennington you might find there are hundreds more free things to stick your head into around the capital. But we couldn’t possibly encourage that kind of behaviour.

London Fire Brigade Memorial Hall. Perhaps your last chance to see it before it is turned into, you guessed it, flats and a luxury hotel…but we said that last year.

https://programme.openhouse.org.uk/listings/11781

International Maritime Organisation (that bizarre looking building on Albert Embankment. pictured below). This was our favourite in 2025.

https://programme.openhouse.org.uk/listings/7730

Tannery Arts: Winchester Arts Studios

https://programme.openhouse.org.uk/listings/13174

St. Paul’s Newington. Most postwar churches are mediocre at best. This is a real beauty.

https://programme.openhouse.org.uk/listings/2556

Van Gogh House London (Been and recommend. Its more about restoration than the great man so don’t expect any paintings or a severed ear).

https://programme.openhouse.org.uk/listings/8317

Segmental House – Amazing 2024 addition to a listed Georgian home

https://programme.openhouse.org.uk/listings/12824

City & Guilds MA Show 2026

The time has arrived yet again in the Greater Kennington cultural season (yes, it’s a thing) for the free and massive MA show over at City and Guilds in Kennington Park Road and of course we’ve just checked it out for you. And because we love free stuff.

What we appreciate about the MA show is that it’s not just about painting, for example sometimes it’s just a side table with packets of fags on it. But other areas show the work of conservationists, restorers, wood carving and sculpture. All set within those beautiful Georgian buildings in Kennington Park Road. A theme this year appears to the influence of Tracey Emin’s new drip paintings. Other themes appear to involve branches and lots of rocks stuck to walls

As you meander through the galleries you can read bios of the artists and gain insight into their process, theory, outlook, and motivation. There is something here for everyone and some of the work is quite stunning. A lot of the artists are on hand to walk you through what you’re looking at. In other words, don’t be an armchair critic as the artist is probably behind you, but there to answer all of your questions.  And if you haven’t a clue what you’re looking at just maintain a steely gaze, purse your lips, and proclaim ‘that mound of sticks is about IDENTITY’! Works every time. Opening times at bottom

PUBLIC OPENING HOURS

Tuesday 8 September | 11:00-18:00

Wednesday 9 September | 11:00-18:00

Thursday 10 September | 11:00-18:00

Friday 11 September | 11:00-20:00

Saturday 12 September | 10:00-17:00

Jack the Chipper

We just paid an Observer visit to new Chippie on the block and it’s the unfortunately named ‘Jack the Chipper’ in Sayer St. in Elephant. It’s part of a micro franchise and this third location is run by a father and daughter team. It exists as both a takeaway and as a higher priced dine in establishment with other options to order such as burgers and pasta (but don’t). On this occasion we were accompanied by Marsha from Business Support, who needed her spirits lifted after worrying that she was about to be replaced by AI (she is).

Jack the Chipper works as both a traditional fish and chips takeaway service but also, with the same menu but higher prices, as a dine-in restaurant. This isn’t like the chippies with a few afterthought tables, but a proper restaurant experience with full table service, and a bar. The menu covers all the chippie classics, including sides such as mushy peas or pickled onions. Marsha ordered haddock and chips. While she was chewing she noted is that the batter was light and the fish tasted fresh. The chips are proper, thick, chip shop chips, made in-house without resorting to Mr McCain or a freezer. There are even reassuringly large bags of potatoes out front.

Your scribe ordered the frankly quite fancy sounding grilled seabass with cherry tomatoes. Playfully assorted was garlic, lemon parsley, capers and baby potatoes. The seabass flaked easily and had a delicate, mildly sweet flavour. Each portion comes with tartare sauce and lemon, as is correct procedure and salt and malt vinegar was on the table. We could have done with a bit more tartare sauce; I’m sure we would have been granted had we asked With an airy ambience to the restaurant and substantial outside seating, this is a good place to stop. We feel reassured that everything was of high quality, which it should be for £22

At the Observer we pride ourselves on being the least ‘woke’ site you’ll find, but we draw a line under your name, Jack. Ten years ago it might have been very clever to name your gaff after a serial killer of vulnerable women but its 2026 and its not on. When you arrive at that giant deep fat fryer in the sky you’ll understand this, but hopefully before. In spite of the name we hope Marsha had a nice evening as she wistfully and correctly pined ‘this might be the last time I eat out for a while’.

Three Buds

In this climatically challenging spell we’re having, ice cream becomes less of a luxury and more of a need. We’ve just undertaken an almost unheard of face to face interview with Sarah, who’s just opened gelato/coffee/bagel spot ‘Three Buds’ right in the middle of Vauxhall park. The buds refer to Sarah’s kids aged  3, 5, and 7. How she’s managed to start a business with three little ones whist we struggle to find a dropped paper clip eludes us, but this isn’t about us.

Sarah’s lived in Greater Kennington (Vauxhall) for 10 years and recently left her job in the City as she spotted a hole in the market for a quality café in Vauxhall Park. She was inspired by seeing her neighbours and kids using the park and wanted to extend that community feel by creating a space where they could relax. The concept of her business is to select food that she would want her kids to eat. So the gelato has no artificial ingredients found in creams you might get in Tesco (a supermarket). In fact, their gelato is sourced from the same supplier that’s used by the Italian embassy.  Whilst there we indulged on (don’t judge us) pistachio, vanilla and strawberry, Belgian chocolate, strawberries and crème, and salted peanut butter, the latter being vegan. All rich and delicious. And if you’ve never eaten five gelatos at 10am it’s a whole different vibe.

We don’t usually accept freebies but as we’d already broken the fourth wall by pitching up in person we thought ‘screw it’ and accepted a creamy and balanced  iced latte and a raisin bagel with homemade berry crème cheese. This was an example of breakfast fare and Sarah explained that they have a range of lunchtime bagels as well. The bagels are sourced from NYC and ours was doughy and excellent. Sarah road tests all of her goodies, such as coffee beans, before they hit her café. When asked how she makes margins work as food prices increase, Sarah put on her sunglasses and said, wearily, ‘I don’t know’. So this is our call for you to pop over to Vauxhall Park and say hello to Sarah and her new local business. Oh, and buy things.

Free Garden Museum and a Scary Tony Blair Gnome

Over at the Garden Museum on Sunday (the 12th) they’re having a Neighbours Day and we think its something that you might just want to get your hands dirty for as its yet more free stuff. There will be workshops on flower arranging and pressing, seed bomb making, face painting, and live music. This is mostly kids stuff which we’ll avoid but is great as some of us in the office were once kids ourselves.

The best part of the day is that the museum itself will be open for free (usually £17, which we think is a bit steep) and there will be periodic tours of the exhibits and the beautiful decommissioned church in which it is set. For those who haven’t been, the museum encompasses bedding design, implements, seeds, old lawn mowers, FlyMos, and descriptions of how certain plants were brought to the UK. There is also a small art gallery and you can climb the medieval tower. The garden gnome collection is particularly impressive 

Neighbours Day is on Sunday from 11-4 and is totally free. And by ‘neighbours’ we think they’re liberal in their definition. And this will be your chance, and these chances don’t come by very often, to meet a scary garden gnome that looks JUST LIKE TONY BLAIR. 

A Building and a Smell Tells a Thousand Words

Buildings in Greater Kennington have stories, and sometimes smells. The story of what is now Vox Studios is a living metaphor for how Vauxhall has evolved over time. From brewery to Marmite factory and from a homeless charity to a Gen Z pop up office space this is the four stage life of a building that reflects how we have changed and the smells we’ve tolerated.

From the dawn of the industrial age until the 1960’s our patch of south London provided a much needed repository for smelly things that London needed but didn’t necessarily want on its front door. Victorian Greater Kennington was punctuated with vinegar works, soap factories, coal spewing industries and of course Gasometers. So Vauxhall proved the ideal HQ for the New London Brewery Company. From 1897 they produced beers for over 78 local pubs. It was a major regional player in the drinks trade, employing hundreds of local people to work yeast, logistics, and deliver barrels. The present day car park was once filled with horses, carriages and doubtless heaps of acrid horse poo. Sadly, due to the extremely competitive nature of the drinks trade, our mighty brewery went into liquidation in 1925.

With all those hops and stills hanging around, when the mighty Marmite folks began sniffing around for a London HQ the brewery was an ideal spot. Part of the late Victorian building was pulled down and a more suitable edifice created in 1927. For the next 40 years Marmite was produced and hauled away by the lorryload, and the internet is full of tales of the aroma of the area. With Gasometers, Marmite, and a pickle factory (now Beefeater HQ) basically back to back the funk factor must have been overwhelming.

As smelly factories moved out, Vauxhall still acted as a repository of things London didn’t want to look at – the homeless. Older residents might remember the wonderful homeless charities Thames Reach and Centrepoint in Vauxhall, and when St. Mungos was looking for its first building to house the homeless, the old Marmite site seemed ideal and from 1973 it offered 200 beds to the most vulnerable.  Since its humble days at our little factory, St. Mungo’s has become one of the UK’s largest homeless charities and helps tens of thousands of people a year.

Skipping jauntily ahead to its most recent incarnation. The Workspace group has built a massive extension and has styled the factory as ‘Vox Studios’ with the forecourt smell of hops, Marmite and horses being replaced with £5 skinny white lattes. Some might view the young tech types that it attracts as being good for the local economy. Others might see them as contributing little to the economy other than by making home prices higher. Making it yet another thing that Vauxhall doesn’t want but nevertheless needs.

If you want to watch a creepy, AI generated film about the smells of Victorian London, watch away! But you might need a nice shower afterwards.

Cricket a la Mode

As a person who lives near the Oval you may at some point be asked to attend a cricket match, and if cricket isn’t exactly your wicket then this piece is for you as we’ll introduce you to other things going on there. Recently some of the Observer staff attended the T20 Blast series at the Oval.  This was booked through  our underused colleague Mark over on the sports desk. Or his name might be Mike. Anyway, we wholly thank Mark/Mike for making this unusual sports foray possible.

The primary feature of T20 cricket is that the matches are compressed into three hours, and are fast past and undertaken in the evening, making it more appealing to neophytes such as us, and we used AI to teach us the basics. We saw the London Derby of Surrey vs. Middlesex and the punters were certainly more, shall we say, energetic than the punters we saw on a previous daytime session, who appeared to engage with the sport primarily whilst snoring.

One fun activity is to wander around and learn about the history of the grounds and cricket greats such as Alec Bedser and Ian Ward. We frankly have no idea who these people are but they have very interesting stories. On the pitch you can grab £1000 if you catch a ball, which appeared highly unlikely given the sobriety level of the crowd. There were also fireworks, ozone destroying fireballs, a T-Shirt cannon and of course nothing could yell ‘Greater Kennington’ more than the addition of a drag queen. As a bonus, cricket appears to be one of the only sports that you can enjoy while chatting with people around you or even on the phone. It was a wonderfully lively bunch.

No day out for us would be complete without stuffing our face, and it was provided by the excellent Kerb catering, who do a more upmarket version of football grub. We saw venison burgers, loads of hot chicken, Indian, Greek, fish-n-chips, loaded fries, BBQ and more. Your scribe had a chicken shish wrap from Lil Watan and intern Paul had a delicious Punjabi naan wrap from Baby Dhaba. One place where they sting you is at the bar. They have fancy craft beer and fine wines, but our Brixton Pale Ale and a can of wine (they’re a thing) was over £18. However, on some fixtures you can bring in your own booze but sadly not T20. This probably explains why Phil from accounts vanished when it was his round. But as it was Phil he could have just been kicked out.

We greatly admire any sport that you can observe while scrolling on your phone, talking, sleeping, or being flogged a car. So if you’re feeling inspired by this article, admission starts at £20 and there are many other matches available. If you want to discover more about the history of the Oval, including the man who walked 1000 miles around it fuelled only by brandy infused tea, we’ve got you covered.   

Jack White at Newport Street Gallery

Once you’ve written probably the best known guitar  riff of the 21st century you’d think that life is pretty much downhill after that. But clever Jack White from the White Stripes thought of a backup long before creating the chant a from thousand terraces. His first ever public art exhibition, These Thoughts May Disappear, is an overview of White’s artistic space outside of music. Some of these works are from the 90’s but most have been created specifically for this exhibit/salesroom at Newport Street Gallery in Vauxhall. And yes, amongst us we figured out that a terrace isn’t just a place where you gossip and sip Rose.

At first glance White’s artworks are pop art, Tim Burton-ian inventions to the extent that you expect Helena Bonham Carter herself to pop from behind a sculpture, but they invite a closer look. People who are aware of the Stripes work (not us) will detect his colour coded references to the Stripes back catalogue. An upstairs room acts as a nod to White’s start as a Detroit upholsterer and features a stripey table with a levitating ping pong, as all good tables should possess.

Gallery one is comprised of a number of small ceramic figurines which all bear a striking resemblance to White himself, which to us acted as sinister, almost Trumpian introduction to the exhibit. In the third gallery we encounter White’s mythical Pallet Cleanse Corporation, which repurposes redundant pallets into glamorous objects of adoration, often in high gloss. As if you forgot the identity of the artist, there are stripes of every sort to remind you. And apparently references to songs we’ve never heard of.

After the furniture jumble sale with aforementioned levitating ping pong, the third room becomes immersive and allows us to play with all sorts of Moog synthesisers and other fiddly bits which integrate into the works. The overall impression are of works manufactured out of household objects from a man shed in the back of a garden,  which across this impressive group of more than 100 sculptures, paintings, photographs, and pieces of furniture White achieves.

Is this the evolution of a talented artist or a bored, washed up rock star trying to capitalise on his name? To think in these binary terms rather defeats the purpose of art like this. If you enjoy art for art’s sake, does the artist really matter? And as it’s free who cares, as a seven nation army can’t hold you back.

These thoughts may disappear is on now until 13.9.2026, so you have no excuse to get over there. And for those of you who have no clue who the hell we’re talking about, the video is below.

Pullens Yard Open Studios Spring 2026

As frequent readers are all too aware, we here at the Observer love nothing more than anonymously sticking our noses where they don’t belong. So why not join the merry ranks of middle class white people and partake of our passion/dysfunction? We’re talking, of course, of the great Pullens Yard Spring Open Studios weekend taking place on 5-7 June (that’s next week and not this weekend, folks. Keep up) in Walworth. It might just prove to be the last warm weekend of the year.

Pullens Yards (Clements, Peacock and the large Iliffe Yard) are an amazing collection of 1880’s workhouses which were originally designed for the people who lived in the nearby Pullens Estate. We wrote about the fascinating squatting history of the estate a few years ago. Instead of being converted into luxury flats, the Yards serve the same purpose as they did 140 years go, and the cabinet makers and blacksmiths have been replaced by potters, jewellery makers, card makers and folks who make things that you want but by no means need. We once bought moth balls disguised as little knitted mice. And as we know crystals are just rocks, but the stall holders might just convince you that they have the power to heal.

The studios at Pullens Yards are usually not open to the public, but twice a year they fling their doors open to give us a glimpse into their creative universe and this is the Spring iteration. The artists are more than happy to show you what and how they create, and of course you can buy what’s on show. And buying is by no means compulsory, as at the end the day these folks just want to show off how clever they are and it’s totally free. Have we mentioned how much we love free?

A visit to the Yards is a fun way to spend a morning or a late afternoon searching for quirky and unusual gifts for yourself or loved ones. In the past we’ve encountered live music, food for sale, a bar provided by Orbit Brewery(!) and live music. A sunny late spring day is an exceptionally optimistic way to see the Yards. And who knows, you just might discover a previously unrealised desire to own a necklace made out of forks or a room deodoriser fashioned as a piece of cheese.

Pullen’s Open Studios is open Friday evening and in the daytime over the weekend. And if you’re overwhelmed by that necklace fashioned out of forks, take a break and check out the great and very quirky Electric Elephant Café. And no, its not a charity shop. It just looks like one.