The Most Miserable Man in Kennington

Anyone who has ever walked out of a Gail’s Bakery knows what it feels like to be miserable. But it might surprise you that there have been miserable people in Greater Kennington for centuries, and we’re here to tell you about one.

Joseph Cappur was born in 1727 in Cheshire into humble circumstances. At an early age, he came to London to begin an apprenticeship as a grocer before setting up his own shop in Whitechapel. Cappur soon prospered in his trade and, having been fortunate in various speculations, the lucky sod was able to retire in his 50’s.

Upon retiring,  Cappur spent several days aimlessly walking around London searching for lodgings. His search eventually brought him to the beloved Horn’s Tavern in Kennington. It was located at Kennington Park Rd and Kennington Rd. Below you can see it in its Georgian version and then its Victorian version. The current version is actually now a Job Centre Plus, or as we like to call it ‘the ugliest building in Greater Kennington’. Soon to be replaced by the second ugliest, a giant skyscraper full of students. But we digress.

When he arrived at the Horns, Cappur ordered a pork chop in his usual blunt and demanding manner.  As the evening progressed he demanded a bed, and he received an equally blunt refusal from the Landlord, in a style of not unlike that of Cappur himself. Cappur refused to accept this and after some altercation was accommodated with a bed. It was at this point that he determined to stay and ‘plague the growling fellow!’ Cappur talked a good game and and for many years he discussed quitting the Horns the following day. Unfortunately for the punters he lived there until the day of his death,  twenty-five years later. At no stage was any agreement reached as to lodging or eating but wished to be considered as an inmate.

So methodical were Cappur’s habits that he would not drink his tea out of any other than his favourite cup, as well as using the same plate and cutlery. He rose at the same hour every day and would always sit in the same chair next to the fire. He was elected as the Steward of said  fire, and if anyone were found daring enough to put a poker into it without permission, they incurred the risk of experiencing the weight of his cane. We rather respect the tenacity of Cappur as there are a great number of people in Kennington who we’d love to hit with a cane ourselves.

At breakfast Cappur arranged, in a particular way, the paraphernalia of the tea table, but first he would read the newspapers. At dinner, he observed a general rule and invariably drank a pint of wine and a quarter pint of rum with sugar, lemon peel and porter mixed together, the latter he saved from the pint he had the previous day.. So regular was he in his habits that his bill was always £4.18s every fortnight.

Cappur called himself the champion of government, and nothing angered him more than to hear anyone disparaging the British constitution.  His favourite amusement, or some might call it a fetish, was killing flies with his cane, and while doing this he would tell a story about the perniciousness of all Frenchmen, whom, he said, ‘I hate and detest, and would knock down just the same as these flies.’  So if he were alive today he would likely vote Reform and read the Daily Mail.

When a new landlord took over the Horns, he found that Cappur came with the Tavern, and such was treated not unlike a pint glass or a stool. This led to a new understanding and acceptance of Cappur’s peculiar behaviour. Why the new landlord didn’t just say (cue Peggy Mitchell voice) ‘Get your poking cane and pint of wine out my pub’ is not recorded. Joseph Cappur died at the Horns on 6 Sept. 1804, at the age of seventy-seven.

The Firecracker Lunch Special

When your scribe made a request to review the lunch options at Kennington Cross Chinese eatery Firecracker, the Observer finance director Adam said ‘you need to bring your own lunch’. When it was pointed out that a selection of rice or noodle dishes is just £8.50 or £10.00 if you add a soft drink or side dish he jumped out of seat and said ‘I’m your man’, and out of our secret office bunker we emerged.

On arrival at Firecracker we were greeted by a young waiter who had a ‘my parents own this gaff’ attitude to service. And to complement this swagger he had an amazing head of hair, reminding us somewhat of a Vileda mop. Adam was feeling spicy and chose belly pork and French bean with chilli bean sauce. He pronounced this properly spicy with plenty of beans and pork along with slightly sticky but lovely jasmine rice. Adam also decided, using his own words, to ‘splash out’ by ordering a side dish of prawn toast which was crunchy and abundant with sesame seeds.

Your scribe went old school and had sweet and sour chicken. The flavour profile was tangy and sweet, with the chicken very slightly battered and well combined with the tender vegetables. Between the rice bowls, noodle bowls and salads there were about 15 dishes to choose from, all at the same price. We didn’t tell Adam at the time, but given that the portions are perfectly decent you don’t need a side dish, even if some prawn toast did sound tempting. Not that offered us any, mind you.

Firecracker should be packed out but it was quiet on our visit on a Thursday lunchtime. Service was laid back in style, even a little sparse, but the food came quickly and was well presented. Let’s make this great Kennington lunch special more of a big deal and give the staff something to get excited about other than having great hair.

Pullens Yard Open Studios 2025

Last week we wrote about this coming weekend as our favourite of the year, and here’s another reason. As frequent readers are all too aware, we here at the Observer love nothing more than anonymously sticking our noses where they don’t belong. And you too can take part in our passion/dysfunction by attending the great Pullens Yard Open Studios weekend taking place on 6-8 June in Walworth.

Pullens Yards (Clements, Peacock and the large Iliffe Yard) are an amazing collection of 1880’s workhouses which were originally designed for the people who lived in the nearby Pullens Estate. We wrote about the fascinating squatting history of the estate a few years ago. Instead of being converted into luxury flats, the Yards serve the same purpose as they did 140 years go, and the cabinet makers and blacksmiths have been replaced by potters, jewellery makers, card makers and folks who make things that smell nice. We once bought moth balls disguised as little knitted mice. And as we know crystals are just rocks, the stall holders might just convince you that they have the power to heal.

The studios at Pullens Yards are usually not open to the public, but twice a year they fling their doors open to give us a glimpse into their creative universe. The artists are more than happy to show you what and how they create, and of course you can buy what’s on show. And buying is by no means compulsory, as at the end the day these folks just want to show off how creative they are and it’s totally free. Have we mentioned how much we love free?

A visit to the Yards is a fun way to spend a morning or a late afternoon searching for quirky and unnecessary things. In the past we’ve encountered live music, food for sale, a bar provided by Orbit Brewery(!) and bumped into neighbours. In 2022 we went on a wet Friday night which proved particularly evocative. And who knows, you just might discover a previously unrealised desire to own a necklace made out of forks or a room deodoriser fashioned as a piece of cheese.

And if you’re hungry or want some tea, check out the great and very quirky Electric Elephant Café. And no, its not a charity shop. It just looks like one.

Lambeth Country Show 2025

It’s our favourite weekend of the year at Observer towers! But unlike our other best weekends of the year this involves owls, bouncy castles for adults, and potatoes that look like Taylor Swift. Clutch your pearls folks, as we’re about to recommend something that involves leaving Greater Kennington.

The Lambeth Country Show (the term ‘country’ being used loosely as it’s in Herne Hill) is a yearly event held in the hilly enclaves of Brockwell Park and will be on Saturday and Sunday, 7&8 June, 1pm to 9pm, and it’s great fun. The fair is a wonderful mash up of Lambeth life including an eclectic (and loud) live stage featuring Jazz, disco and reggae. It has a fun fair for the kiddos, locally produced things to buy, and is totally free.

A real highlight of the show is the marquee featuring award winning vegetables, flowers and plants. If you see a scrum they’ll likely be huddled around the puntastic figures which depict topics of the day in veg form, and are so famous even the Gardening Museum is in on it.  We had a particular soft spot for Tina Turnip in 2023. If you can’t make it to the fair until the end of a hot Sunday afternoon then I’d give this tent a miss as the award winning veg starts to resemble something you’d find in the back of your fridge after 5 weeks.

The animals are another real treat of the show and something we rarely get to see as urban dwellers (especially the kids). Sheep, owls, birds of prey are on hand to see and, umm.. smell and you might even get to play with them. And if you get homesick and forlorn when you’re down there just visit our friends at Vauxhall City Farm who usually have their alpacas

You will be cheating yourself if you don’t partake in a bit of jerk chicken action when you’re down in the park, as there are a million options and all the vendors are local. Having said that, its also a good idea to take your own food and drink to save time and money.

TOP TIP: We take the Number 3 and get off one stop after Brixton tube and then walk it.

Beza Vegan Ethiopian

Beza Vegan Ethiopian is the Observer’s favourite vegan joint and has been since it started its local life as a pop up in Elephant and Castle shopping centre in 2016. It now lives on close to the new ‘so hip it hurts’ dining area Sayer Street in Elephant. And the only thing better than the food is the fact that it is female owned and operated.

If you don’t know a great deal about Ethiopian food they make it easy for you as there is only one thing on the menu, and the very friendly Ethiopian staff can tell you all about it. The food is served on a giant platter and is intended to be eaten without cutlery by means of a glorious bread called injera, but you can choose rice (but don’t). Injera has a slight tangy flavour to it and they’ll bring you as much as you want. On the platter we had red lentils with garlic, sautéed mushrooms, chickpeas, spinach, beetroot and cabbage cooked in a variety of ways. The heat level was moderate but if want to ramp it up we were given two condiments. One was hot and the other felt like we were chomping down on molten lava, mitigated by free minty water.  All extremely pleasing.

The crowd at Beza are primarily thirty somethings who just left the gym with their water bottles and who probably live in those new flashy towers nearby. This by no means describes us, but they appeared envious of just how quickly we downed our big glasses of wine. And at only £39 for two people it was certainly good on the wallet. They also serve an even larger (were talking car tyre size) portion for four people, creating a party sharing vibe.

Why Ethopian food isn’t more popular is a great mystery to us, like that giant pong that used to be in Kennnington tube or why you never see any baby pigeons. But this shouldn’t be a mystery to you, and take your friends who dither, as their is really only one option!  አስገራሚ!

throwers at Gasworks Galley

We always enjoy the eccentric offerings offered up by the quirky Gasworks Gallery in Oval, and their current exhibition certainly doesn’t let us down. Previous shows have included a giant Styrofoam coffin, and another saw the space turned into a Hampstead Heath cruising area. The current show is called ‘throwers’ by Johannesburg based artist Noland Oswald Lewis and is an altogether more serious offering, but just as surreal.  

In the first room we find a 3D printer furiously creating stones which appear to be large lumps of coal. When completed the stones are logged by Gasworks and either stored or put on display, creating what is called a ‘Black Earth Library’. The text on the walls place them as various rock samples extracted from settler communities in South Africa, Australia and the USA. As coal often turns into diamonds, to us it was redolent of how people have exploited indigenous lands for reasons of profit or settlement.  

The second room is a bit more playful, and invert familiar representations of the globe. We encounter a globe next to a giant black planet which invites the viewer to consider all manner of interplanetary ideas. A meteor? A threat to white dominance? Along the long wall there is a vast mural (stick with us, people) which weaves together that represents a social history of ‘stones that move’ which includes data from near earth asteroids and their cosmic journey. Accompanying this is a playful archive of people throwing rocks. Hopefully the synthetic ones that won’t split your head open. A recurring theme throughout is that of a thrown rock, be it a giant rock in space headed to earth or the equally symbolic sight of a person throwing a stone in apartheid Soweto which threatens the established order.  

Nolan Oswald Dennis – ‘throwers’ is on now until 22 June and is totally free. The gallery is only open towards the end of the week from 12 to 6 so over the bank holiday take a break and flex those brain muscles which have lied in repose for far too long.  And you can be amogst the bewildered patrons below.

Mr. Charcoal – The Real Deal

Mr. Charcoal is a very authentic Chinese in north Kennington focussing on dishes from northeast China and is by no means Cantonese takeaway fare. You might know it by its previous incarnation, Seveni. We recently paid a visit to see what the barbeque buzz is about. What first strikes the patron is the presence of cheesy Chinese pop music (tick), actual Chinese diners (triple tick), and enormous mutant looking fish in a tank (quadruple tick). In fact, it creates the almost immersive experience of being in a Beijing café.

As a starter new intern Nick and your scribe had chicken hearts. We’d never actually eaten heart before, and it can only be described as kind of like a crispy meatball. It was heavily seasoned with cumin (as a lot of dishes are), sesame, and a great deal of pepper. We contemplated ordering pig brain, aorta, intestines, or duck blood but then thought that the table would end up looking more like a crime scene. So we stuck with more mainstream dishes.

The main event for us was a shared stew pot described as Chinese sauerkraut with pork belly strips. Our server had helpfully advised that this was good to share so we teamed it with some egg fried rice. If you don’t like a lot of spice, this is a good choice: plenty of flavour in the cabbage, not exactly sauerkraut, a little more soup-like and the most delicious thin slices of pork belly somewhat of the fashion you might find floating in a bowl of Japanese ramen. This was sufficient for two people with the tasty egg fried rice also in a shareable portion. We also indulged on the lamb skewer. Forgetting protocol, Nick tried to split them in half until he realised, after your scribe stabbed him with a skewer, that Observer staff get more than interns. It was juicy, very cuminy, and melted in the mouth.

Half the tables at Mr. Charcoal come with BBQ’s at your table, but we weren’t that adventurous. Mr Charcoal can seem a little intimidating on first impressions, and there is not much of a website and what there is carries only a limited menu, half in Chinese and scant information beyond that, but that’s half the fun. Then, after an evening imagining ourselves to be in a little known café in Beijing with smiling locals eating every organ available, we were mercilessly disgorged onto a bus fumed Kennington Road where we almost got knocked down by a 59 bus. So much for dreaming.

Flourish Fest at Roots and Shoots

Roots and Shoots near Kennington Cross is a registered charity and vocational hub dedicated to educating young people facing multiple challenges in Lambeth and Southwark and preparing them for the world of work through internships in horticulture and retail. It’s also a green space for urban biodiversity and is frequently visited by school groups. In addition to all of this good work, it’s open to all for a wonder around its verdant and leafy half acre. And did you know this verdant patch is UNESCO award winning?

On Saturday Roots and Shoots will be having their annual community open day called ‘Flourish Fest’ and we’re all invited! In addition to giving you gardening tips, looking at the activities from last year there was the suggestively sounding pond dipping, butterfly sessions, bug drawing, cyanotype printmaking and chalk painting which was for all ages to enjoy. The event featured delicious tacos (yes!) with storytelling by their education staff. The day also featured live music scattered throughout the site. This all sounds great, but to us frankly it seems aimed at kids. Don’t get us wrong, we love children. In fact a few Observer staff were once children themselves. So we reached out to Roots and Shoots and its certainly adult friendly.

In addition to the frolicking fun listed above,  they also have a very busy apiary on site. When we first read this we excitedly thought it had something to do with apes. As it turns out its where bees live, and beekeepers will be showing off their craft. There will also be a masterclass in creating floral crowns which will be perfect for our upcoming team building weekend at Glastonbury, provided we don’t trample over it at 4am in the Silver Hayes dance tent.

Roots and Shoots is a vital charity, and on the day they can tell you how you can volunteer, for example tending their gorgeous Doorstep Green in Fitzalan Street. On a visit for this article we saw a group of young people with additional needs attending a lecture on potting plants and a second group who were proudly harvesting vegetables. Helping them could be another way to show your support.

The Bouquet and Beans Breakfast

We recently escaped from our publishing house hatch to pay a visit to Bouquets and Beans in front of St. Anselms Church in Kennington. And unless you’ve been stuck behind a hatch yourself, you’ll be aware that it is run by the hardest working man in Kennington, Abraham.

For this breakfast excursion your scribe was accompanied by office ‘fun guy’ Phil from accounts. We both ordered the savoury stuffed croissant. It was delivered to us grilled, as requested, and this explains why the croissant in the photo looks like Phil sat on it (and not for the first time). To add to the order Phil said ‘can I get a pint with that’. Your scribe tactfully pointed out to Phil that this a breakfast venue, in addition to it being 9:30 in the morning. He then ordered a coffee and your scribe had a tea.

Our croissants were filled with a generous heap of high quality mozzarella cut from a ball, sun dried tomatoes, and a big dollop of pesto. It was almost a shame to see it melted and grilled, but the grilling brought out the buttery feel in the mouth. Plus, it gives us a flimsy excuse to go again and get the non grilled version. At £4.50 we can recommend this. Other options on the day were a pain au chocolate, almond croissant, and pistachio pain au chocolate.

And as you’re devouring your calorific croissant, why not buy some flowers! B&B’s also has a fine selection of blooms and Abraham or one of his perky Gez Z assistants can aid you in making a bouquet.

In the end Phil stared despairingly at his coffee which wasn’t a pint, and confirmed  the quality to be rich, rounded, and right up there with another Observer fave, Urban Botanica around the corner. Another reason to go is the great community feeling it has, with many of your fellow Kenningtonians chatting and sipping.

Guided Walks Around Greater Kennington, Some Free!

As we hurdle through spring and into summer it’s time for us all to get out and explore our beloved patch of land and they rich history it contains.  The Lambeth Local History Forum have for years put on a range of fascinating walks all around Lambeth and we’re here to tell you about upcoming walks in Kennington/Vauxhall/Elephant/Walworth which you can attend and enjoy. And by ‘you’ we mean not ‘us’, as we are stuck in an underground warren in Kennington Cross, only seeing the light of day to get a Tesco meal deal while almost being hit by a concrete mixer on its way to Oval Village. Some of these walks are FREE (and we love free) but they do expect a tip at the end. Do tip, as we know what you lot are like.

11 May, Sunday 11am – VE day 80th: How Kennington Brought Victory.

19 May, 15 June, 3 July, 12 Aug.10 Sept. Various times – Doing the Lambeth Walk

7 – 9 June Lambeth Country Show. This is actually in Brockwell Park but we’re putting it in here as its great fun and you can see an aubergine dressed as Nigella Lawson and get hit in the head by an enormous owl. No need to book. 

7 June, Saturday 11am – Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens: Dance Through the Ages

5 July, Saturday 11:30am – Vauxhall Pride: A Walking Tour Through the LGBTQ+ Heart of London. We think this would be much more entertaining if it was taking place at 6am on a Sunday, when people are leaving the nightclubs.   Booking gapingill@yahoo.co.uk

15 July and 3 September – Various times. Unseen Vauxhall: Vanished and Unnoticed

So sign up and put these dates in that sparkly, jewel encrusted diary that we’ve been imploring you to get for years. As if you ever needed any more proof as to why you don’t need to leave Greater Kennington.