Category Archives: cafes and restaurants

Kennington Lane Kebab

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A few weeks ago an adorable little kebab shop popped up at the top of Kennington Lane in Vauxhall (where it meets Harleyford Road) and it’s been on our radar ever since. It’s cleverly carved out of the back of the ever popular greasy spoon Kennington Lane Café and you can even use their outside tables for your lunch if don’t mind your lamb doner mixed with a few bus fumes.  

As our Runoff identities are top secret, I’ll call my dining partner ‘Donna Kebab’, and Donna joined your scribe for the special offer at lunchtime. She had a lamb doner wrap for £6 , and I had a £5 chicken doner wrap. Donna’s was filled with tasty lamb kebab slices with some lettuce, tomato, onion and cucumber and a good slosh of chilli sauce. Mine was similar, and with the added kick of saltiness that is essential to a chicken kebab. They were slightly shrunken and encased by a tortilla wrap rather than a pitta bread which makes takeaway and eating on the run easier. Veggie kebabs are also on offer in addition to falafel. Overall much better than your average kebab, and Donna agreed. 

  • Lamb. And please don’t judge us. Photographing food is hard
  • Chicken

If you don’t have the fortune to live in Vauxhall, on Walworth Rd. there exists another of our of kebab favourites, Shawarma Hut. This is more of a Lebanese fast food affair serving up mezze, kofta, falafel, and all varieties of delicious shawarma (even Mexican). Also offered is that Lebanese staple,. Chicken wings. All very cheap and filling And on our visit this was accompanied by unnerving yet invigorating house music. 

Both are available on Deliveroo and Uber Eats

Cherry Tiger

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Suffer as we do for our readers, we just checked out Elephant and Castle’s very first cocktail bar, Cherry Tiger, which opened last week. It’s perched at the top of Elephant Square, incongruously set amongst shops selling wigs, figure shaping garments and costume jewellery. The location affords nice views towards our newly created little patch of green, Elephant Park. 

James on the left, 75 on the right

Cherry Tiger is owned by the highly regarded and ‘oh my god does that pint really cost 9 quid’ Vauxhall taproom Mother Kellys, so it comes with a fine pedigree. Having said that, most of the cocktails at CT come in at £8 here, which is pretty reasonable for London. Julie from our accounts team likes a nice cocktail, and she had the ‘French 75’ with gin and sparkling wine. It was semi dry, zesty and lemony. Your scribe had the very sweet ‘James Brown’ featuring bourbon, amaretto and sugar. In addition to the inventive drinks below, CT can also mix up more traditional cocktails and also have a beer and wine list. 

As you can see, the design aesthetic of Cherry Tiger is a kind of mashup of fancy wallpaper meets weekend project following a B&Q visit. The highly energetic staff explained that it is still early days at CT, and the look will change over the next few weeks. While it might not be an evening destination per se, Cherry Tiger is a fine way to either start or finish your evening. But if you do spend your whole evening there, if the stairs prove too daunting there is a lift. 

The Tupi Brunch Experience

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Brunch is something not generally covered on the Runoff, and we recently checked  out ‘Tupi’ in Elephant Park. We had given Tupi a wide berth as from the outside the joint looks quite soulless and we still feel guilty about liking Elephant Park.  But inside it’s a bright affair with a giant and colourful mural of a Tupi Indian and loads of plants. When we entered the establishment they asked if we had a reservation and by the time we completed it was full, so the word is certainly out there. 

It was mobbed by the time we left

Tupi’s styles itself as Brazilian fusion and its dinner menu does contain some staples from Brazil such as Feijoada and Muqueca. However, this was brunch and we tried to refrain from the more traditional brunch fare of eggs and pancakes (of which there many) to try things more exotic.  My guest chose huevos rancheros and this was a variation on the Mexican version, with poached egg instead of fried and sourdough instead of tortilla. It was delicious: a well sized portion of black beans, warm tomato and onion salsa, some guacamole and sour cream topped off with two poached eggs and a slice of toasted sourdough. This felt like a filling and pretty healthy way to start the day.

Your sturdy scribe had that great Brazilian delicacy, a burrito. It consisted of coriander, lime rice, black beans, sour cream, pico  de gallo, sweet corn. It was dominated by cheese and a generous amount of chicken. I would recommend this in addition to other more interesting items such as Turkish eggs or chorizo hash. Given that our little Brunch overlapped with lunch we also say punters tucking into some pretty hefty looking burgers and truffle gnocchi. 

And of course Tupi’s has a bottomless brunch as we’re pretty sure it’s illegal now not to have one. Details below – 

Fridas

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Unless you live in one of those new zillion pound high rises in that sketchy stretch of Albert Embankment (and if you do, well, congratulations) you probably haven’t noticed that we have a spanking new (well, only) Mexican food joint in our midst! The restaurant is called Frida’s, and is on the ground floor of one of those ghastlycharming towers. 

My colleague Laverne and your scribe dropped to Fridas the other day and what first strikes you is that it has fully embraced the ‘maximalist’ design trend of the moment. The flowery wallpaper, Frida Khalo banners, plants, Christmas lights are all charmingly bonkers and strangely comforting. Your scribe had the Cochinita porl pibil tacos, which featured a mound of tangy pulled pork topped with sour cream, pickled onions, and slaw. Your scribe had soft tacos but you can also have hard (corn). And like with all proper Mexican dishes, cheese does not feature prominently here. What does feature is Valentina sauce, which is on every table in Mexico.

Laverne had the chicken quesadillas, which did indeed have sprinklings of Mexican cheese but she found them to be a bit bland, so the Valentina sauce had to be deployed liberally. What totally hit the spot was their refried pinto beans. Packed with spring onion and chorizo, they were the great combination of chorizo smokiness and hearty smashed beans and some dense herbs. We would recommend this as a side, even if it looks a bit unpleasant. Frida’s  also has a massive bar so you just drop in for a margarita if you wish. The staff are all very friendly and are actually Mexican! Tick! 

Places like Frida’s need our support to stay afloat so do pop over and say hello. And given that most of the residents of those high rises probably have had their assets frozen, it means that they won’t be able to support the place themselves. 

    The Electric Elephant in the Room

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    We recently made a long overdue visit to the very quirky and oft overlooked ‘Electric Café’ in Walworth. For those who have never been or only peeked through their eclectic windows, you might confuse it with a charity shop. Or it could remind you of your great aunt Edna’s loft just after she made her way to heaven. Either way, it’s a great spot to meet up with friends or to work for a few hours.  

    Electric café is run by friendly and chatty owner Louisa, who on a daily basis serves homemade, meat free sandwiches, soups and pastries. On the board during our visit was falafel and hummus toasties, goats cheese salad, luscious looking brownies, and meat free pasties. Louisa also makes her own jellies, marmalades and chutneys, which are for sale on the counter. As if Louisa doesn’t have enough on her plate, she also does catering and the place can be hired out in the evening. Electric also has a rooted social conscience, and during our visit signs were being put up designating it as  a safe space for people escaping domestic trouble. 

    Electric café is in the very interesting artists commune of Pullens Yard, (below) and well worth gander or a nosey peek around there in the daytime. So if you ever wake up thinking that what’s really missing in your life is a café with a glitter ball, repurposed cocktail bar and an old sewing machine, then look no further. And if your trip requires WiFi, then the router can be found teetering atop a stack of used books on the right, which are for sale. Have fun! 

    The Ten Best Restaurants in Greater Kennington #4

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    (+ One Sunday Roast)

    THE CORIANDER

    Greater Kenningtontonians are almost as opinionated about their curry as their Sunday roast, but we find that the best hands down to be The Coriander in Vauxhall. We are aware that such a bold assertion is controversial and might make you want to hurl tarka dahl our way but since you don’t actually know who we are that’s not gonna happen.

    Coriander specialises in North Indian, Bengali and Nepalese cuisine. The garlic naan is just right – not too thick and herbs going through it. For side dishes, the  baingon motor (aubergine) is  a standout treat, and their other starters cover all the bases of North Indian food. For the mains, our favourites are the chicken tikka naga (above) with hints of cloves, cumin and loads of heat.  All the good curry house standards are also in evidence, and we particularly like the handi laze, which is spicy chicken with chillies and fragrant cardamon, given some zing with added lemon. And as with most Indians, there are a range of veg options. There are also a huge range of rice options, and we prefer the good old fashioned pilau.

    Honourable mention in for Indian food goes to proper old school curry joint Gandhis in Kennington Cross which just missed our list. As you can see by celebrity strewn pictures in the window, if it’s good enough for Richard and Judy, Neil and Christine Hamilton, and some lady who’s a dead ringer for Hyacinth Bucket then it has to be good enough for us mere mortals and deserves second Indian place.

    The Best Sunday Roast in Greater Kennington

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    24 THE OVAL

    We would like to take a pause from the nail biting and profoundly moving Top 10 list to announce that the best Sunday Roast in Greater Kennington can be found at the very cheffy ’24 The Oval’. The runner up is new kid on the Vauxhall block ‘Jolly Gardeners’ which almost knocked off ’24’ for reasons petulantly outlined at the end of this post. 

    What immediately strikes you about 24 is that it is truly a temple to good food and quality ingredients. The wait staff know about the food they’re serving, and the open kitchen is a symbol of their honest approach to food. During lockdown, 24 transformed itself into a farm shop with a sideline in craft bottled beers. We were very pleased to see that this little tradition continues selling everything from Cava to carrots. 

    As an ‘amuse-bouche’ each table of two is served with four miniature Yorkies served with a delicious gravy probably made with beef drippings (vegan options abound, however). My dining partner and Sunday Roast connoisseur had the pork belly which was generous and nicely soft and sticky in all the right places. Your scribe had the lamb and the shoulder was served shredded, with the leg served in pink and fatty strips.  As it is one of their specialities, the Yorkshire puddings were large and just the right side of crispy. Both roasts were served with more hearty gravy served from a saucepan.  Also evidenced was pea puree with a pleasing consistency not unlike that of baby food. 

    What strikes you about 24 is that they have none of that ‘small sharing plates’ BS.  The real star of the show here is the very well cooked veg. In addition to those served with the roast, you are presented with so many additional veg items that they almost fall off the table. This included cauliflower cheese and roast potatoes which were perfectly crispy but with a soft centre. The carrots possessed an intense roasted flavour and savoy cabbage also popped in for a visit. An unexpected mystery guest for us were Jerusalem artichokes. The mains run between £19 and £23 which ain’t cheap, but we feel is worth it. 

    24, if you are a KR reader (and if not you’re really missing out) we need to talk about something. You stand guilty of committing a crime pervasive in London restaurants at the moment. Namely, selling hugely overpriced wine. Your cheapest bottle is a not very cheap £29, which was almost 300% above the retail price. We are letting you off the hook as times have been tough but we’re watching you *wags finger*! Otherwise you make a mighty fine roast and you know it. 

    The Ten Best Restaurants in Greater Kennington #5

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    (+ One Sunday Roast)

    Kuma

    We are back in Kennington Cross and this time at quirky haunt Kuma which makes its third appearance on the list. We were there last night as we are slightly obsessed with the place to ensure standards haven’t slipped. As we know some of you prefer takeaways to physical dining, the review below was made during the last lockdown. However, if you go in the flesh you will be treated to a background of K-pop music and extremely friendly staff. And Kuma, please never do away with your water served in Korean athletic sports bottles.

    It’s Saturday night and time for a takeaway! Astute readers will be cognizant of our love of the Korean/Japanese joint ‘Kuma’ in Kennington Cross. We recently had a takeaway from there and, while not achieving the olfactory heights of being in the restaurant, is definitely worth a Saturday nosh. But Kuma, if you’re reading this we need to have a serious conversation about your excessive use of Styrofoam. Moving on..

    Naughty styrofoam and delicious fried chicken


    Your zealous scribe started with the painfully bang on trend Korean Fried Chicken. Kuma has three options; traditional, spicy, and we opted for the sticky soy garlic. The medium portion was huge and suitable for two. It had a great crispy crunch and slathered in a sticky soy garlic sauce. For the mains your scribe opted for the chicken bulgogi (say it like a pro…..Boo-GOH-gee) which were very thin strips of chicken grilled on a BBQ coated with a very good sauce called gochujang. Spring onion featured and it was consumed in lettuce wraps. It was billed as ‘hot’ and it certainly was, and so generous that your scribe couldn’t finish it.

    My associate had the Kimchi Bokkumbap as a main, a Korean fried rice dish with the national ingredient kimchi (spiced fermented cabbage) topped with barbecued beef strips. A bit like Chinese stir fry rice with a heavy dose of red chilli sauce. It was topped with a fried egg and came with miso soup, and again was a very generous portion. 

    The Ten Best Restaurants in Greater Kennington #6

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    (+ One Sunday Roast)

    Daebak…..Home of KFC

    Since it opened a few years ago Daebak in Vauxhall has been delivering consistent and hearty Korean fare in a very cool street Seoul setting. Word has now spread and it’s more popular than ever. Of note there are a number of Korean patrons, probably enticed by their Korean down home treats such as kimchi pancakes and…wait for it….. potato chips with cream cheese powder, best consumed with the Korean beer ‘Hite’. The review below is from a couple of years ago but we’ve been many times since to explore its great and deliciously unconventional fare.

    A few days ago we popped our sweaty selves to Vauxhall to revisit a delightful Korean friend called ‘Daebak’.  It is a small, delightful restaurant not to be confused with the not so charming ‘Jihwaja’ across the road. Well, unless your idea of charming involves hen do’s, stale kimchee and blaring K-Pop. And if it does then this website might not be for you…..

    For our meal the three of us ordered soy garlic Korean Fried Chicken (or KFC, a speciality, above), spicy bibimbap,  Katsu curry, crispy tofu, and gyoza. Let me tell you, reader, we were rolling out of there by the end of it. We could have easily dropped one of the main courses as they were huge. We highly recommend the various kinds of fried chicken on order (crunchy, subtle) and the Bibimbap is delicious and comes with two veg. options. I would also experiment with a starter like octopus balls. Great food, and pretty kind on the pocket. If you are going on a weekend it might be a good idea to book, as last time we couldn’t get in we had to go across the street and it wasn’t pretty.

    Daebak is at 316-318 Kennington Lane

    Pros – It has wide open doors overlooking Vauxhall

    Cons – It has wide open doors overlooking Vauxhall

    The Ten Best Restaurants in Greater Kennington #9

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    (+ One Sunday Roast)

    TARO

    The number nine spot has been grabbed by the now well established Japanese canteen Taro at the bottom of Kennington Road. Our review below is from 2020, but we’ve been back a number of times since and the food is as reliable as a cocktail party at #10.

    Part of the Greater Kennington firmament for over a year now, Taro has consistent delivery of authentic ‘Izakaya’, (roughly meaning ‘pub food’) very similar to  the food you get in Japan, and is good value for money. They also have a menu more diverse than most Izakaya places (not always a good thing but it is in this case), which caters to varied tastes.  Believe it or not there are a number of Japanese joints in our area, but this is acres above the lot (February 2022 – it still is!).

    Some staff were in Japan before our Taro visit last year and went to Taro with KR freelance journalist Mark, who lived in Japan for years and served as our culinary attaché. We had sushi (both tempura-maki and other maki) which was fresh and generous on the fish side. We also had fried chicken (above), which was crunchy and equally meaty. For a veg angle we also indulged in juicy tofu steak, with a surfeit of ginger and wasabi. For sides we recommend onshinko pickles and gyoza dipped in soy vinegar. Both veg and meat gyozas are great. The salmon teriyaki bento box at the next table also caught our eye.

    Taro can be delivered to your door via Deliveroo,  and you can pop in and take it away. They curiously don’t have a website, but are located at 414 Kennington Road, close to the park.