Category Archives: cafes and restaurants

Theo’s Encore

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Astute readers have probably noticed that we are slightly obsessed with Theo’s Pizzeria in Elephant and Castle. Indeed, it nabbed the #2 spot in our recent ‘top ten’ list a few months back. So on a rainy night recently we decided to recreate the feeling of actually dining there by having a takeaway. 

Theo’s is similar in many ways to other indie artisan setups such as Franco Manca and Pizza Pilgrims. But unlike those, Theo’s isn’t propagating like head lice; in fact there are only two outlets. Their regular menu is strategically small and while they are officially closed features just six of their pizzas. At the heart of these pizzas is their chewy, Neapolitan sourdough base which is crispy but at the same time thin enough that we ate them with a fork. Don’t judge us. 

My associate had the ‘Sausage and sweet roast peppers’ which featured tomatoes, capers, mozzarella, olives, oregano and garlic. The tomato sauce had a good sweet and savoury flavour and the mozzarella was springy and fresh. Your scribe had the ‘Anchovy’ pizza which, in addition to the anchovies, featured tomatoes, capers, oregano, garlic, and mozzarella. You might be thinking ‘salt overload’ here, but the balance was just right. And as you can see in the pictures below, the pizzas are slightly charred, giving them a smoky quality which rounds off the whole affair nicely. 

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The two pizzas came in at £23. They are available for collection in person or by delivery (we have suspended our opposition to Deliveroo due to lockdown but don’t worry, it will come back). They are open Wednesday to Saturday, 17:00 to 21:00. As we’ve mentioned before, if these places are going to survive they need our custom now for than ever….Because if they close we’ll all be doomed to a world of…..PAPA JOHNS! 

To burn off the calories from a Theo’s pizza you might need to binge watch Joe Wicks workout videos for the next nine days but what the hell, these are strange times. 

Nue Ground in a new ground

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Rightly or wrongly we may be teetering towards a vague genre of semi-normal – some local pubs are serving takeaway pints and Kennington Park is looking more like the Pyramid stage at Glastonbury. What we never expected to see so soon, however, is a new café opening in Greater Kennington. 

Nue Ground is a very bright and zippy café located on the ground floor of the new ‘Millennials only’ high rise ‘Uncle’ on the Kennington side of Elephant. The original Nue Ground is in Clapham and serves sandwiches and light dinners. The offerings at our outlet are more limited and primarily breakfast related, but maintains the company ethos of being ‘healthy, well balanced and as ethically sourced as possible’. 

My dining partner had the very heartily sized baked eggs which were well cooked and not too hard. It featured some lovely butterbeans and sweet peppers and seasoned with labneh and harissa. Your scribe had a very virtuous granola with huge blackberries and raspberries with a coconut flavoured yogurt and a dusting of pistachios. When we were there we also oogled over some pretty cakes. 

We have the utmost respect for Neu Ground and certainly hope they succeed. The only downsides being that it is kind of expensive for what it is, and the wait staff are still learning how to do their job (we were given cold coffee twice). In these exceptional times we have to take pleasure in the small stuff, and if nothing else it feels very refreshing to walk into an actual establishment and order something from a menu. But if you can’t walk in,  Nue Ground is also on Deliveroo. 

Farming down in the Oval

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When we’re not rearranging our unread collection of classic literature to make them feature more prominently on ‘Zoom’  calls, we often spend our lunch hour treading the local pavements looking for good food and ingredients. A long standing favourite was always Oval Farmers Market in St. Marks churchyard. Rain or shine they offered locals a great selection of fish, cheeses (real cheese, not the Tesco kind that tastes like a pencil eraser), cakes, and herbs – most at prices cheaper than Borough Market. As the market was in a pretty confined space it was doomed when The Event happened, but after six weeks it is back in business just up the road. The resurrection commences this weekend, but the reality of social distancing means that sniffing the merch just isn’t going to happen. 

Newish restaurant 24 The Oval in Clapham Road has transformed into a kind of farmer’s market itself recently (OK, about six weeks ago but we’re busy) and we recently popped along to check it out. We had our eyes on some hearty rhubarb, strawberries, huge peppers, and a nice variety of tomatoes. Their craft brewery room downstairs sells a variety of pale ales and lagers and you can take the bottles away again and then get a refill. The Oval also has a small hot takeaway menu of some of their best dishes such as coq au vin, beef sirloin, and beetroot risotto. Their changing menu is on Facebook and Instagram. The downside of 24 The Oval is there is often a lengthy queue to get in. But as they say, good things come to those who wait. Or something. 

    A taste of takeaways and pubs

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    We have to face up to the reality that we won’t be eating in a Greater Kennington restaurant any time soon. And when we do, we might encounter the indignity of having to shout ‘hey, can I have some more ketchup please’ from across a socially distanced room. To address this, some local restaurants are offering a takeaway or collection service with a limited menu. The places offering this service generally let you know via social media.

    One of our favourite local takeaways is unsung gem ‘Taste of India’ next to the bike shop in Kennington Road. On a recent visit my associate had lamb korai, which was heavy on the lamb and onions but a bit light on the spice. Your reporter had the prawn bunha, which had a very good mix of spices, thick gravy and full of tomatoes. On previous visits we’ve enjoyed the madras and jalfrezi, which certainly delivered on the spice front.  Side dishes are always a highlight with Indian food, and we recommend the huge, crunchy onion bhajis,  garlc naan bread, and tarka daal. 

    The lamb, or ‘this is why we aren’t food photographers’
    The prawn. Honestly, it tastes better than it looks.

    While it might not possess the Prime Ministerial credentials or razzmatazz of Kennington Tandoori, we think Taste of India *prepares for hate mail* is better. Taste of India doesn’t quite achieve the culinary highs of Gandhi’s, but sadly it isn’t open. And if you don’t fancy Indian food but you still want to sample the fare at ‘Taste of India’, then why not plump for their…..wait for it…….sushi!  

    Over the past week a few local pubs have also opened offering takeaway drinks and a reduced menu, for collection only. We’re very excited about this development and enjoyed a pint at The Doghouse on Friday night, and then another at The Black Prince.  This goes a bit to retaining a sense of normality and also helps these small businesses. We suggest you take your drinks home, however,  to avoid being known as ‘that street drinker who lives a few doors down’. Other pubs further afield might be offering this service, so again check them out on social media and eat safely. 

    Wine Affairs

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    In these unprecedented times drinking wine is very important. We here at the Runoff are propelled by the ‘power of the PG’s’. Namely, PG Tips and Pinot Grigio. The former we can  easily pick up at our local ‘Tesco in the car park’. As for the latter, we’ve decided to up our game while also keeping it local. This is when we discovered new wine merchants ‘Wine Affairs’. We recently sat down and had a chat (on Zoom, don’t worry) with Wine Affairs founder Marc Venverloo, who lives in Renfrew Road. 

    Marc and his wine

    Marc lived in France for 30 years, and it was there that he discovered his passion for wine. When he moved to London he found it hard to find quality wines which were also affordable. At the same time his friends began asking for his advice about wines and food/wine pairings. Marc quickly discovered a gap in the market; delivering good French wine while also helping people who are unsure about what wine they want to drink. 

    The price point for Wine Affairs wines is £10-£30 (averaging about £15) and Marc points out that this would be much higher if it were sold in a shop, as they don’t have to pay for shelf space or rent (and this brutal calculus is what saw off our beloved local Oddbins). Navigating the world of wines can be rather intimidating, and Marc assured us that the advice they offer is unfussy and unpretentious. This can be done by emailing or just calling him. 

    As moving bottles of wine around the world isn’t the most environmentally sage thing to do, we’ve picked Marc’s brain about the environmental credentials of Wine Affairs. He said that the bottles live in a warehouse in Essex, and have been sourced from independent wine makers who take care of their soil and use organic or bio dynamic methods. Some of these producers Marc knew when he lived in France and he has an established relationship with them. 

    And why, you might ask, did Marc decide to settle in our shire? As it turns out his wife Laura and brother in law Gavin are that very rare breed — true natives of Greater Kennington, having grown up in Elephant and Castle. You don’t get much more local than that.

    As the wine is already in the UK, Marc has informed us that they offer next day delivery, which is just what we need to take the pain away. 

    The top ten best places to eat in Greater Kennington – no. 1 – Adulis

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    If right now you are thinking ‘my god, it seems like it’s taken a year to get through this top ten list’ then trust me reader, you ain’t the only one. In our crazy reality of face masks and washing hands five times a day, stability seems to be a vacant resource for us all. But your wait has been worth it, as the top spot is awarded to an excellent Eritrean restaurant in Oval which has been a source of continuity in our crib since 1996.

    If Eritrean food is new to you, or even if it isn’t, the best launching point at Adulis is the sampler plate  called ‘Kirchat’ (there is a vegetarian version as well). It is fundamentally a selection of their best meat and veg dishes served on a platter usually featuring Kifto, which is tender meat in Ghee and to die for. All of the dishes haver have a sweet and sour, almost vinegary tinge to them. They gladly pimped our 2 person serving up to 3 as we had a third diner, and the pic is below.  Please don’t let our bad photo below put you off, as not all Eritrean dishes look like cat food.

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    The dish above is served on a platter with a base of bread called ‘injera’, which is a leavened pancake made with sourdough (and if you run out you can get more for free). Almost all meals here are served with it and the whole shebang is to be eaten with your good hands (remember those days?). We also recommend the chicken stew ‘dorho’ with loads of herbs and also the prawns. They also have some fine looking vegan options.

    On the drinks front, we usually have the Kenyan beer ‘Tusker’ or a South African white. Having said that, the speciality of the house is their Adulis honey wine. We’ve had this previously and let’s just place it in the category of ‘experimental’. The place has a slightly retro Eritrean feel to it with memetoes both current and from the past. The staff are very friendly and a good chunk of the punters are (tick!) Eritrean themselves. The place also wafts with the aroma of their coffee and popcorn ceremony.

    Adulis is closed at the moment and we can’t see if they deliver by the usual sources. Keep looking online, give them or call to see if you can pop for a takeaway. Failing that,  stick it in your pocket diary as all of our venues will need our support in order to survive. As they say in Eritrea, Tsibuk E’dl!!!

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    The top ten best places to eat in Greater Kennington – no. 2 – Theo’s

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    The finish line is in sight and grabbing the number two spot is newish Elephant and Castle pizza restaurant ‘Theos’ . As with everything on our countdown, Theo’s is closed for ‘dining in’ customers but they do a very brisk delivery business (it is pizza after call) via Deliveroo and Uber Eats. Theo’s Elephant is the small brother to its big bro in Camberwell. As a small and local business in these troubled times, it needs our support now more than ever.

    Hands down, we think that Theo’s is the best pizza place in Greater Kennington and one of the best in London. But don’t take our carb obsessed word for it, the secret is out and this is a sentiment shared by Time Out. The pizza is Neapolitan with a sourdough base that’s soft and chewy on top and crisp underneath. The power is in the dough at Theo’s, and those slightly charred bases makes the toppings almost secondary.

    As with most good restaurants, the menu at Theos is very small and focusses squarely on the thing they do best. None of this pasta malarkey. I had the Napoli Salami pizza (below) which was spicy, full of cheese, and presented with a crust so fine that it had be eaten with a fork. My dining partner had the Nduja and Ricotta pizza. It featured sun dried tomatoes and golf ball mounds of ricotta. Also on offer is sone tasty Italian wines and cocktails.

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    As you can see from the bill below, the price point is very reasonable, with pizzas coming in at £10 or less. As you can also see from the bill below our bar tab was more than the food bill, but don’t judge us. When Theo’s opens normally again you’ll encounter a youngish clientele but not so young that they shy away from playing 80’s music. The venue is bright, airy and staff very friendly.

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    The top ten best places to eat in Greater Kennington – no. 4 – The Coriander

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    We’re getting closer….And the number 4 prize goes to the best Indian in Greater Kennington, The Coriander in Vauxhall. We are aware that such a bold assertion is controversial and might make you want to hurl tarka dahl our way, but since you don’t actually know who we are that’s not gonna happen.

    Of course Coriander isn’t open for diners at the moment, but their menu is still available through Deliveroo, Uber Eats and Just-Eat. This is another example of a small chain which needs our support more than ever if it is going to whether these strange times. We just walked by and there were people inside cooking away.

    Coriander specialises in North Indian, Bengali and Nepalese cuisine. The garlic naan is just right – not too thick and herbs going through it. For side dishes, the  baingon motor (aubergine) is  a standout treat, and their other starters cover all the bases of North Indian food. For the mains, our favourites are the chicken tikka naga (below) with hints of cloves, cumin and loads of heat.  All the good curry house standards are also in evidence, and we particularly like the handi laze, which is spicy chicken with chillies and fragrant cardamon, given some zing with added lemon. And as with most Indians, there are a range of veg options. There are also a huge range of rice options, and we prefer the good old fashioned pilau.

    chicken-tikka

    One day soon the Coriander will again be open for diners, so put it in your diary. Draft Indian beers wash down the heat and the wine list is pretty reasonable.

     

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    The top ten best places to eat in Greater Kennington – no. 5 – Daebak

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    We’re going to ramp up our top 10 list in tandem with the almost hourly changes happening in our society. All of these places are now closed,  but put them in your little pocket diary for future reference. Most of these places are small businesses, and without our ongoing support they might become estate agents or barber shops never open again. Most of these places offer takeaway via Deliveroo or Uber Eats.

    The number 5 prize goes to yet another new kid on the block, the excellent Korean restaurant Daebak in Vauxhall. Daebak is no stranger to plaudits, having been named one of the best Korean restaurants in London  by Time Out shortly after it opened. The venue slightly maintains  the greasy spoon aesthetic of the joint that was previously there, with the highest accolade being that actual Korean people frequent the place.

    Daebak means ‘awesome’ in Korean and the meal we had there last year was just that. Three of us ordered soy garlic chicken (a speciality, below), spicy bibimbap,  Katsu curry, crispy tofu, and gyoza. Let me tell you, reader, we were rolling out of there by the end of it. We could have easily dropped one of the main courses as they were huge. We highly recommend the various kinds of fried chicken on order (crunchy, subtle) and the bibimbap is delicious and comes with two veg. variations. I would also experiment with a starter like octopus balls. They also throw in a few Japanese dishes to mix things up. Great food, and pretty kind on the pocket. If you are going on a weekend it might be a good idea to book, as the word has gotten out.

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    Please don’t confuse the awesome ‘Daebak’ with the not so awesome ‘Jihwaja’ across the street.   Unless of course your idea of awesome comes with a hearty dose of blaring K Pop and karaoke.

     

     

     

     

     

     

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    The top ten best places to eat in Greater Kennington – no. 6 – Kuma

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    As  said previously, we’ve decided to plow on, bull like, with our top ten list but not with the intention that you will rush out tonight and put yourselves at risk. Rather, you might consider takeaway or indeed write them down in your bejewelled pocket diary for future attendance. Importantly, these venues are mostly small businesses which are in acute risk without our ongoing support at some time,.

    The newest kid on the Greater Kennington block gets the number 6 prize due to its menu of Japanese and Korean fare at good prices. When it opened we had a mild panic that Kuma was going to feature fusion food (imagine the horror of kimchi sushi) but were assuaged when the menu featured a clear distinction between the cuisines. They were also able to pull off the two cuisines in equal degrees, which is no mean feat.

    My dining partner had the tonkotsu bento box, the main feature being breaded pork katsu.   Said partner would have liked a bit more slop of the tangy sauce but it was very well proportioned and the sauce even managed to make the bean sprouts better than usual.  Your reporter had prawn gyoza which were grilled well and had definitely not had part of their lives wasted by a freezer. I then had the chicken bulgogi (say it like a pro…..Boo-GOH-gee) which are very thin strips of meat grilled on a BBQ. The chicken had a very good sauce and featured spring  onion. It was billed as ‘hot’ and it certainly was. And so generous that I couldn’t finish it.

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    Korean and Japanese restaurants are the new gospel in London and don’t seem to be going anywhere, and Greater Kennington certainly has caught the bug (oops, sorry). Kuma holds its own by giving highlights of both cuisines without being too experimental.  I went downstairs to go to the toilet and ‘accidentally’ walked into the kitchen. I could not see any sign of notorious sous chef Mike(rowave) and it appeared that everything was made on site. The bill, with four beers, came to £50 which was reasonable. When the bill came we tried to pull the ‘but we’re Kennington INFLUENCERS’ trick, but they were having none of it.

     

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