Kennington Tube Blazes the Trail

Unlike other areas in south London, Greater Kennington is awash with tube stations. Two of them, Kennington and Oval, were the first deep level electric underground stations in the world when they were completed in 1890 (aren’t we always ahead of the curve). The line was built by City and South London Railway Co. and originally stretched from Stockwell to King William St. (near Bank). It proved such a wild success that it inspired other speculative builders to rip up streets and dig routes into the City from places like Shepherd’s Bush (Central Line) and Waterloo (W&C Line). 

In 1890 alone our little stretch of what would later become part of the Northern Line attracted over five million passengers. The price of the fare was low enough to attract not just snooty bankers living in Kennington Lane, but also people who worked as clerks, in factories, or as teachers. The line also attracted sightseers to gawp over our anointed and hallowed patch and get some R&R in Kennington Park. And by 1897 more nerdy types might have been enticed by the first electric lift of any tube station (remembered by the now redundant dome). 

Entrance hall, 1934

For our forebears, all of the giddy thrill associated with travelling through a hole in the ground did have certain drawbacks. The carriages were described as  ‘padded cells’ and people faced stifling heat in addition to near blackouts when the train accelerated. As the novelty wore off electrified trams began scuttling down Kennington Park Rd. and into the City. Not only did trams minimise the risk of getting touched up in the dark, they also had many more stops. So profits began to decline for our pioneering Railway Company, and by the 1920’s  shareholders gladly sold up to the ever expanding tube network. 

Sadly, while researching this piece we made little headway in ascertaining the source of the great pong of Kennington tube. For those who weren’t around, the smell was somewhere between just stomped on cheddar cheese and wet cat hair. 

Trams on a very different looking Kennington Park Rd. at Oval tube.

A Local Victory

If it was possible we would buy all of our readers a colourful Christmas gift. Unfortunately, we once again failed to get a bonus this year or any other kind of appreciation from Runoff management. Well, unless you count Monday morning when Phil from finance shouted ‘here’s your lot’ and threw a handful of Quality Street into our cubicles before walking away.  What we can give you, therefore, is a present that will enhance our lives in other ways. 

Lambeth County Court has stood proudly near Kennington Cross for almost a century. It’s functional life came to an end in 2017 and its future was very much in doubt. It was tantalizingly shut from public view after that with the exception of  two occasions, which we chronicled in 2019 and earlier this year. During this time the Duchy of Cornwall, who owns the property, cynically applied for the building to be immune from listing with the plan to convert it into……you guessed it……luxury flats, with the added indignity of an extra floor plopped on top. This would of course entail gutting the building and destroying the original, period courtrooms.  

We’ve always had a passion for the Courthouse, but we’ve given our opinion about planning consent before and let’s just say it took the better part of a year to put that toothpaste back in the tube so we weren’t doing that again. However, to the rescue came the 20th Century Society who gave advice (read, pressure) to the Department for Digital, Culture, Media and Sport to list the building and after a great deal of exertion the building was granted Grade II status, ensuing that it will remain intact. We’re happy that the Society used some of our images on their website. 

At the moment part of the building is used as studios for artists affiliated with City and Guilds. In our little crystal ball the Courthouse could perhaps become a gallery or studio space for everyone in the community to enjoy in perpetuity. Everyone needs a place to live, but they also need a place to explore. Merry Christmas……

History and Cameras

Last weekend our newish MP, Florence Eshamoni, opened the spanking new ‘History Hut’ in Kennington Park close to the tennis courts. Formerly a seating area frequented by gentlemen who like to enjoy an outdoor beverage,  the rest stop has been transformed by the installation of eight boards celebrating the vitality and diversity of our area. The boards cover areas from royalty to hangings, cricket to Chartists, and Van Gogh to WW1. If you are an astute reader you’ll be aware that we have written about many of these things before *collective office high five*.  Well worth a pre-Christmas perambulation to work off those extra calories 

The boards also mention a little known but fascinating tattle of trivia taken from the estates around Greater Kennington. The strange railings that you see around many estates are not actually railings at all, but repurposed stretchers from WW2. They were placed in storage by the Civil Defense Corps until the 1960’s in case of a nuclear (!) attack. We wrote about them in 2019. 

Camera Club

We really know very little about the Camera Club other than it has been there for years and we know very little about it. It is actually one of the oldest photography clubs in the world, and the site in Bowden Street acts not only as a studio but also an exhibit space for members. Until 25 January the gallery is having its annual Winter Member’s Exhibition and it is totally free. The photos offer a poignant overview of the highs and lows we’ve all faced in 2021. The very friendly staff on hand can even tell you how you can become a member yourself if you are the snappy sort. 

Kennington’s Lost Tragedy

We often take for granted living in a society that is peaceful, calm and free of external threat. We’ve all felt vulnerable over the past two years but we also have a great deal to be grateful for. Before we get ensconced in Christmas revelry, we want to share with you a nearly forgotten tragedy that happened in Kennington Park 81 years ago.

At the outbreak of WW2, as now, most of us were vulnerable to events that were beyond our control. To address this, air raid shelters were constructed in Kennington, Vauxhall and Archbishop’s parks for people who were caught in their flats or couldn’t make it into a tube station. In reality these were hastily constructed trenches made of thin concrete slabs. While they were considered ‘bolt holes’ for people caught in the open, often folks had to seek shelter there for upwards of 12 hours. 

At 20:05 on 15 October, 1940 part of the Kennington Park shelter suffered a direct hit from a 50lb. bomb. A survivor from a nearby trench recalls the roof being lifted off followed by an eerie silence. Local rescue workers laboured desperately in what must have been extremely dangerous circumstances to recover as many survivors and bodies as possible, but erosion and mud make their task insurmountable. No official death toll was announced at the time but the figure is now believed to be 104 fatalities. 50  bodies were recovered and this remains the official death count. Most of them were buried in Lambeth Cemetery; the remainder still lie, unidentified, beneath the park. 

As you can imagine, the government did not want to impact this and other civilian disasters for fear that it would adversely affect wartime morale. In the years following the war the incident was largely forgotten until researchers began to put the pieces together from scant news reports and by speaking to survivors a few years ago. Today a stone with an inscription by Maya Angelou stands in the park as a poignant and subtle reminder of the tragedy.  So when you next stroll through Kennington Park or have a kickabout,  spare a thought for your fellow, former Kenningtonians and just how much we have to be grateful for today in spite of external threats.

From the aerial shot below of the south field in Kennington Park you can still clearly see the outlines of the former trenches. 

The Cinema Museum

Our beloved little that museum that could, the wonderful Cinema Museum, reopened its doors last week after being shut for over 18 months. We always think of the Cinema Museum as like that slightly dotty aunt Vera you have always been meaning to visit in Norfolk. You kind of forget about it and until your mum calls you in floods of tears to announce that Vera is no longer of this mortal coil.

The Cinema Museum is housed in the former administration block of Lambeth Workhouse. We wrote about it in 2019  and this building would have been the dropping off place for a destitute Charlie Chaplin and his mum. For the past 22 years it has served as HQ to the Museum and it’s fascinating and packed collection of film related ephemera including posters, projectors, scary mannequins, scripts, costumes and lights. This collection is only on view if you go for a film viewing or book a private tour with a volunteer, but doing either is easy. 

The Museum has a large viewing area amongst the historical pieces (plus a bar) and puts on a variety of talks, film series, and films both old and new. Just before closure director Ken Loach introduced a series of shorts, In the coming weeks they will be showing ‘Hairspray’, ‘Invasion of the Body Snatchers’, and very intriguing sounding film series called ‘Women and Cocaine’. They also have film related events relating to people like Laurel and Hardy, in addition to silent flicks. All can be found on their website

The Cinema Museum has always required the patronage of Greater Kenningtonians to keep it afloat and it now needs us as never before. If we fail to visit we might wake up one day and find it’s gone the path of dear aunty Vera. But worse, aunty Very will be in heaven and not reincarnated as an estate agent, barber shop, coffee shop or…….wait for it… Franco Manca pizza. 

Greater Kennington’s First Skyscraper

Long before the behemoths of Vauxhall and the impending towering bewilderments of Elephant, there existed Draper House in Newington Butts, where Kennington meets Elephant and Castle. Nestling shyly next to the ‘who switched the fans off’ Strata, the Draper Estate was built in the Brutalist style in 1965, and when Draper House was finished it was the tallest residential block in London. If you look up at the block today this seems almost unbelievable.  

In order to meet the varying needs of a devastated community post WW2, radical architects Kenneth Campbell and Hubert Bennett were commissioned to create a building consisting of 141 flats and maisonettes. In the manner of Le Corbusier, the idea was that ‘nothing is too good for the ordinary man and woman’ and the building had wide corridors and the unique addition of fire escapes. Campbell and Bennett transcended traditional building methods by installing a cladding of storey high slabs of white Italian marble.  Another unbelievable reality when we look at the cladding of public housing today. 

We were made aware of the interesting existence of Draper House after reading that one of its original residents just moved out after 56 years. Falling into a typical Runoff rabbit hole, we read the interesting stories of current residents such as Ian, who has lived in the building for 36 years and raised his family there. He notes that many residents have lived there for decades and over the years has progressively reflected the multi cultural dynamic that gives Elephant it’s energy. 

Being tall and notable does have a few downsides, and for many years Draper House had a darker side as it was known as the suicide capital of London. Those days are long gone and the multicultural essence persists at ground level with such treats as a Latin American mini mall, a Brazilian hair salon, a Chinese tea house, and two of our favourites eateries – Italian ‘Theos’, and the wonderfully named ‘After Taste’. 

The Ragged Canteen

Last week we popped over to the lovely but rarely open Beaconsfield Gallery in Vauxhall to check out their Ragged Canteen. It had been closed since before The Event but has now reopened as a ‘vegetarian, not for profit and kind to our planet’ establishment. So everything we aspire to be here at the Runoff. Well other than those days when we’re dealing with work related stress by cramming a £3 meal deal ham sandwich down our gobs…..Moving on…..

Toasties are the main draw at Ragged Canteen, and on this outing my colleague had the carmelised onion, oregano, mozzarella and cheddar. It was nice and crispy around the edge, with a bit of cheese oozing out and well filled. Your scribe indulged in a gherkin and red pepper sandwich. Both on a nice thick sourdough and with all that goodness we just wish there had been more. All sandwiches can be made vegan if you ask them to substitute the mozzarella and cheddar with vegan cheeze.  Frequent readers will be aware that we have a long and somewhat tortured relationship with vegan cheeze so we bypassed this option.  

Also on offer at the Canteen are a host of snacks including croissants, crisps, brownies, cakes and cookies. Also available are a range of teas and coffees. We sat outside in their ample plant filled garden with just one another diner and a giant cat to keep us company. 

The name ‘Ragged Canteen’ prosaically references the buildings’ previous life as school for underprivileged youth in Lambeth, and we wrote about this noble and glorious past a few months ago. When it is open to the public the upstairs gallery is home to some very cutting edge and challenging shows. Some folks here in the office recently enjoyed an immersive exhibit about contemplating seeing art virtually versus seeing it in the flesh with the use of virtual reality goggles. 

Lambeth County Court Art Show

If you’re a regular reader with a sharp brain you might recall that in 2019 we implored you to check out the temporarily opened Lambeth County Courthouse near Cleaver Square before it was handed over to property developers. Well, after 2 ½ years of being closed (with the exception of the unfortunate time that Lambeth accidently rented it to Extinction Rebellion and it was raided by police) it is again open very briefly to the public, but now probably for the final time.  

Without Horizon, Without Shore, is a group show of three female artists who are associated with City and Guilds and have a temporary studio in the Courthouse. The exhibit is somewhat site specific and spans two courtrooms and the corridors/stairwell. It explores themes of nostalgia and contemplation and when we visited,  two of the artists were on hand to explain their work and handy viewing notes were provided. The art is very thought provoking, but the real star here is the disused courthouse itself, which still has many remnants from it’s 95 year history and is quite evocative. In the past perhaps more than a few Greater Kenningtonians themselves contemplated their future in these rooms as they waited judge and jury to determine their fate. 

Developers are currently trying to obtain planning permission to gentrify the building into (you guessed it) luxury flats but this is being stridently opposed by local residents. Please don’t ask us for our opinion on planning permission,  as last time we weighed in we opened an almighty can of worms which we are still unsuccessfully trying to put back into the tin.  Inchalla…….

Without Horizon, Without Shore is open now until 26 Sept,  Thursday to Sunday 12-6. The Courthouse is in Cleaver St.

Open House London 2021

If, like us, you can think of nothing more enjoyable than sticking your nose in other people’s business, then you’re in luck! It’s our favourite time of year again (we know we’ve said this five times in 2021) and it is Open House London. After taking a hiatus in 2020, Open House is back but as an understandably more circumscribed affair. There are a number of venues open to the public and others available online for viewing. As per usual, most of the buildings are staffed by friendly people who can tell you all you need to know about the place and what goes on or went on there. 

St. John’s Newington

For those of you not in the know, Open House London is an event which promotes the appreciation of architecture by flinging open the doors of otherwise closed spaces to the public, and is totally free. It is happening this weekend (4-5 September) and next weekend (11-12 September). What we have included below are local Open House venues where you do not need to book, but look carefully as not all venues are open both weekends. And if you possess the audacious gall to travel outside Greater Kennington you’ll find below other nearby bountiful buildings.

Greater Kennington 

Ken Art Space 

The Camera Club

Elephant Park

Amelia Street 

St. Paul’s, Newington 

Nearby

Lambeth Town Hall

Reliance Arcade, Brixton

Waterloo City Farm

Kaymet Tray and Biscuit Factory, Old Kent Road

Kirkaldy Testing Works, Borough

Lowline Walking Tour, Blackfriars

Generations: Portraits of Holocaust Survivors at IWM

The other day we visited our very own world class institution the Imperial War Museum to check out the thought provoking and quite moving show ‘Generations: Portraits of Holocaust Survivors’. We discovered this show by seeing an interview with Kate Middleton , and as an amateur photographer she was involved in photographing two of the families. 

In partnership with the Royal Photographic society, what the IWM has created is an exhibit of people who experienced unbelievable trauma at various stages of their life. Some people in the exhibit came to the UK as infants to escape the Nazis, some as child refugees via Kindertransport and a few have direct experience of surviving life in a concentration or slave labour camps. What the exhibit focusses on is not so much their lives in occupied Europe, but instead about how they built families and careers in the UK. The most riveting takeaway from the show is how these larger families have incorporated what happened to their older family member into their daily lives. 

This show is not as depressing as it might appears, as what it leaves you with is a sense of how resilient we are as humans and our ability to put our lives back together in times of horrific adversity. It is also a celebration of the lives they have lived and the legacy that their younger family members will carry into the future. Generations runs at the Imperial War Museum until 9 January. It’s totally free and you don’t need to sign up online before you go.