We’ve always felt a little sorry for the Duchy Arms and have developed a soft spot for the place. Located off the main drag, its never enjoyed the passing trade of other venues and has seemed a bit, well, lost. However, it has benefitted from one quirky trait not enjoyed by other pubs…..it has a car park. The car park has now been transformed into an umbrella strewn beer garden, so it’s moment has arrived. As it is truly outside the area has more space and circulation than the Dog House and you do not feel fork to fork next to your fellow diner. Although more spread out, it still has a lively ‘we’ve just come from football practice’ vibe about it. And great staff.
Your scribe and a Runoff colleague enjoyed the lamb kofta with couscous, flatbread and little bowl of tzatziki. It was well spiced lamb and they brought more tzatziki when requested. Another colleague had beer battered haddock with mushy peas and hand cut chips. It was described as ‘lovely, nice and fresh with a crisp batter’. As for the chips, they were definitely made fresh and had not visited the north pole. Our French colleague had the pie of the day, which was creamy chicken and leek. When asked to describe the quality, the colleague shrugged his shoulders and continued to eat. We’ll interpret that as ‘pretty good’.
If you are planning an outing to a Greater Kennington pub in the next week or so if it is within popular hours we strongly suggest that you book first. And after our sub polar dining experience we think it might good to idea to book earlier in the evening. And please remember to bundle up. Humans can do many great things, but eating dinner in a 7 degree car park requires a degree of forward thinking.
On it’s second day of opening we paid a lunchtime visit to glorious local institution Vauxhall City Farm. In case you haven’t been, VCF is a charity and home to over 100 farm animals. They have a breeding programme, a riding school, education programmes, work experience and school tours, amongst other things.
One of the invaluable things about the Farm is that it allows, for free, young people in Greater Kennington to experience farm animals who they might have otherwise never seen. It’s also fun for adults just to stroll around, but right now you can’t feed them (the animals, not your fellow adults). On our visit we saw chickens, lambs, sheep, turkeys, rabbits, goats, pigs, ducks and birds. They additionally house larger animals such as donkeys and horses. Later in the spring they will be selling fresh eggs from the chickens. They are actually green, and wonderful.
In addition to the animals, the Farm also has a café/gift shop which are vital sources of revenue for them. So after comingling with the critters we sat down for a bite to eat. The food unfortunately is not vegetarian, but fortunately it is not made onsite. It would be a little distressing to build up a relationship with little Louie the lamb only to later encounter Louie in a kebab format. They do have homemade cakes, however, and the nice man at the counter assured us that in a few weeks their regular onsite kitchen and menu will be up and running.
The Farm is totally free and as a registered charity VCF relies on donations from the likes of us to keep it afloat, and as you can imagine the past 12 months have been pretty grim times for even the most upbeat bunny. There are several ways to donate onsite by text message, or multiple ways you can get involved financially by clicking here. Moooo!
Over the next week we’ll be visiting five diverse Greater Kennington establishments that have been partially or totally closed since Christmas. We’ll be giving you the KR lowdown on how safe they feel, how seating works, improvements in their menus, issues of overcrowding, and we might even have a cheeky drink or two or six. Our handy guide to how pubs and restaurants are operating is at the bottom of this post.
As you likely already know, from now until 17 May all food and drink served must be outdoors. However, unlike the last time pubs were open, which feels like 45 years ago, you do not have to order food. Also, venues no longer have to close at 10:00pm. First on our journey across Kennington Land is the Dog House in Kennington Cross, which for the record is open until midnight and 2:00am at weekends. Neighbours must love that.
Your scribe and five selected interns and sales people from the KR office had dinner and drinks on Monday night and it was very full. In terms of social distancing, well, lets just say at least people weren’t licking one another. As you can see by the picture below, the benches were packed tightly under the awning, and if this makes you feel a bit uneasy you might want to opt for the uncovered seats. And if you go this week it is best to reserve.
The food at the Dog House has always been a bit on the ‘meh’ side, but on this outing it was suspiciously ‘meh’. People in our group had burgers, pies, and chicken escalope. We all agreed that the poor quality food could not just be a result of just opening again, and the chips had definitely seen some freezer action which did not used to be the case. The service was slow, but we attributed this to the crowd, and the server was apologetic. The apologetic server appeared new, as did all the other staff that night, and that got us thinking. We asked the server if the pub was under new management. The server excitedly explained that the pub is now operated by mega chain ‘Punch’. Oh dear.
Unfortunately we cannot recommend a meal at the new Punch operated Dog House, but it’s still a great place to people watch and have drinks with friends. When thinking about the new Dog House don’t lose heart as at least it isn’t a boarded up shell. Or worse, a Foxtons.
Next week we take our biggest leap yet into the realm of semi normality when outdoor dining and pubs open. Over the first week or so we will be exploring several different venues (for purely professional reasons) and will be giving you the lowdown on how the venues are making it work and how safe it feels. We feel that spring is going to herald a new sense of merriment and optimism in Greater Kennington, redolent of a time when this happened before.
For decades Lambeth Walk was arguably the most famous street in London: people sang, strutted and whistled in it’s honour, many without the faintest hint of where it was. Folks in Greater Kennington were ‘doing the Lambeth Walk’ long before the phrase became a nationwide symbol of the proud, working class Londoner.
By the 1860’s Lambeth Walk was home to a major street market, with more than 200 yards selling everything from fish to books to soap. Our ancestors liked a good time, and would often promenade between the stalls, and this became known as ‘The Lambeth Walk’. The silver screen brought our little local strut to international viraldom with a movie adaptation of the musical ‘Me and My Girl’ called, you guessed it ‘The Lambeth Walk’ in 1939, and people copied it from New York to Berlin
While The Lambeth Walk might have been charming the world, the same couid not be said of the street and it was in serious decline. From the1930’s through to the 80’s old buildings were pulled down and replaced with modern blocks. Of course, WW2 hastened this transformation greatly. By the end of this summer we will be in the opposite of decline and perhaps Greater Kenningtonians can create a modern version of The Walk to celebrate all that we’ve lived through.
The Lambeth Walk is an exaggerated rhythmic swagger, with ‘plenty of arm swinging, copious hat-play and elements of slapstick’. This sounds a bit erotic to us, but there you go. For the curious amongst you, or if you’re just bored, here’s a very early clip of people doing the Walk from ‘Me and My Girl’ –
Well isn’t this as lovely thing? Our friends over at Kennington Park are running a competition throughout April to ascertain what we Greater Kenningtonians have loved the most about Kennington Park (a lot) during lockdown. Details can be found here.
A word to the wise, folks. We are not exactly the ‘target audience’ for this competition. It is very important to keep your entries clean, so no videos of you tripping over a pram after downing 7 canned Mojitos or a poem about the time you got lucky behind the cafe.
By the second half of the 19th century the rural idyll that was Vauxhall was well and truly over and replaced largely by desperate folks looking for work, and they brought their kids. Ragged schools were charitable organisations that popped up to educate destitute (hence the name ragged) children who were not allowed in traditional schools. A very significant one existed in what is now Newport St.
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Local gin/vinegar (that must have been some pretty foul gin) magnate Henry Hanbury Beaufoy funded and founded the school, opening it in 1851 and dedicating it to his wife. Like other Ragged Schools, our Vauxhall branch taught reading writing, bible studies and even ways to emigrate. On the pastoral side, the children were fed and children without parents lived there. A visitor at the time noted –
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“The attendance in the winter averages about 400 boys and girls every Sunday evening. The gentlemen who manage the Ragged School do everything they can to instruct and encourage the children in well-doing; they make them presents of Testaments and Bibles and give them occasional tea parties. In fact, everything is done to improve them in the school. The patience of the teachers is surprising. The girls are better behaved than the boys; they are the children of very poor people in the neighbourhood, such as the daughters of people selling fruit in the street, and such like, and found several children of street-beggars there”.
As the Ragged School was built to address the migration of people, the beautiful edifice above also met its fate due to people moving. It was unfortunately flattened just a few decades after its creation as it fell victim of a Vaxuall/Waterloo rail line extension. Curiously, a bit of the building was left standing and is now home to the great but almost never open Beaconsfield Gallery, and its Ragged Café. The school was restablished by Henry’s nephew Mark Beaufoy (the Liberal MP for Kennington at the time) and rechristened as the Beaufoy Institute in Black Prince Road. This building has had many incarnations but it survives.
You might find it intriguing that the handsome Doulton adorned Beaufoy Institute building below wasn’t just turned into luxury flats when a school there closed a number of years ago. This is again the legacy of the Beaufoys. Lambeth respected the Beaufoy wish that at least half of the land be sold to a non profit organisation. So the old car park in the back was sold to Bellway homes, and the institute is now inhabited by the Diamond Way Buddhist Centre.
In late 2018 a restaurant existed in central Kennington called ‘Rare Burger Co’. You’re certainly forgiven if you didn’t notice it as it was only open briefly. We attributed its demise to being off the main road, in addition to being situated next to Papa John’s Pizza, which would put anybody off their food. It was a great concept as they served things like cocktails, prawn burgers and great chips. But unfortunately their great chips tasted a bit like prawn burgers, which might have contributed to their downfall.
Like a phoenix from the ashes, or something else that rises, Rare Burger has been resurrected. A few weeks ago, in the guise of ‘general members of the public’, we got to chatting with the manager when we were passing. We bypassed the awkward ‘your chips taste like prawns’ convo and he explained that the new venue will be much like the past, but they will rely more on takeaways. There will also be an alfresco element and the front area will be refashioned into a beer garden (whoop!) selling Peroni (whoop again) and a weekend BBQ (whoop 3). Their optimism has been peaked by the reopening of Kennington Green, expected in May.
It was opening day and your noble scribe once again ventured into the realm of the prawn burger. The prawns were presented in a heafty grilled patty, and was served with dill, cabbage, carrot and onion. Delightful all around if you are a prawn fan. For a side your scribe had coleslaw which my dining partner, a self styled coleslaw snob, described as ‘outstanding in it’s creaminess’ and a hit. Both burgers were served on brioche buns.
My dining partner had the ‘Django’, which was a new take on the burger. It’s hard to be original in burger world without being ridiculous, but in addition to a standard beef patty it contained chorizo slices and blue cheese, which worked a treat. It was proper meaty chorizo and proper blue cheese, which helped. The beef patty was served a bit pink, as requested. This came as a relief as last time Rare Burger informed us, rather ironically, ‘we don’t do rare burgers’.
Rare Burger is going to slightly emphasise the takeaway market but they haven’t got their takeaway and website up and running yet. Meanwhile, you can order by pitching up of calling them on 020 7091 4360
If you’re interested in the Northern Line Extension or the upcoming Kennington Green, more information can be found here.
In these unprecedented times comfort food is so necessary that it’s hard to remember a time when we didn’t consume an entire McVities Jamaica Ginger cake daily at 3:30pm. What we really need is quality baking, so we recently tapped into Instagram our vast network of contacts to find a local person who is baking exceptionally well and is able to deliver to your door. Her name is Frances Aizlewood and we’ve had a virtual chin wag with her after sampling her bakes…..
So Frances, where do you live in Greater Kennington? – I’m just by the Duchy Arms, off Newburn St
Is that where you do your baking? –Yep! Everything is prepped and baked in my domestic kitchen!
How long has your business been running and what makes your bakes stand out? – I put up a notice in my building at the beginning of the first lockdown, and have been baking for a few neighbours ever since. I’m really focussed on maximum flavour, and on getting really professional results from my tiny kitchen!
Do you have a day job or do we have a full time Nadiya Hussain in our very midst? – Yes and No. I spent nearly a decade working in publishing, before I left to retrain in 2018. I was working freelance for bakeries, cookery schools and caterers until lockdown hit, when all my work evaporated. I answered an ad and was lucky enough to end up working for John at the Kennington bakery from the beginning of lockdown until he closed at the end of August 2020. Since then I’ve expanded from baking for my neighbours, to their friends, and friends of friends… So long story short – baking, and building up a business locally is my dream.
What is your bestseller? – My bestsellers have been sourdough loaves and croissants. My pastries are actually made with sourdough rather than commercial yeast, which I think makes them extra delicious (and means they last longer!).
Tell us about some of your other products, and do you take special orders? – I try to change my menu monthly – and I only add things I’ve tested, and that I actually enjoy baking. Aside from the classics, at the moment I’m loving my chocolate hazelnut buns, and the apple friands. My brioche milk buns are also the perfect vehicle for bacon. I do take special orders and today I made a giant cinnamon bun birthday cake – so very happy to work with any requests.
PURELY asking for a friend here, but how do you avoid throwing your dough on the wall, falling on the floor crying, and saying ‘screw this, I’m going to Paul’? – Croissants, Pain au chocolats – anything using croissant dough is tough. I use a sourdough base, so for orders delivered on a Friday, I start the process on a Tuesday night. Though there is nothing more satisfying than seeing that final rise, and the perfect layers on the final baked product. And for every bake, there are always offcuts and bakers perks… little extras that make the 4am wake up worth it!
Before the world was turned upside down due to Covid, what did you do for fun in the area? -What are you most looking forward to getting back to? – The pub! The pubs here in Kennington are brilliant and I can’t wait to get back to them all. The Duchy arms, the Black Prince, The Ship, and the Albert Arms are a few of my favourites.
Most of our readers live in Kennington, Vauxhall, Oval, Elephant and Walworth. Can you deliver to all of these areas? –Yes! For free! I have a bike and will travel! Any readers outside of this area – I will travel for a small delivery fee!
Frances can be contacted at faizlewood@gmail.com. Instagram @faizlefood. Her most recent offerings are below and will be on sale until Easter.
Since the current lockdown began there is barely a facet of our lives that hasn’t been impacted. These include the small things (not being able to go to the pub) and the huge things (not being able to go to the pub). But one thing it hasn’t impacted is our ability to cook. I know you’re thinking ‘but those Runoff people are always getting takeaways’ and, well, you might have a point there. But we also enjoy cooking, and by a mile our favourite food shop is the fascinating and slightly surreal Longdan Supermarket in Walworth Road.
Longdan is a pan Asian Market specialising in mainstream and, well, less conventional items from Thailand to Korea. They stock everything you need in terms of Asian fare such as sushi making kits, a wide variety of rices, sauces, every Asian noodle imaginable, tinned fruits, beers, sake, dumplings, buns and obscure and mainstream fresh herbs/salads. They also stock a huge volume of frozen fish. One thing they do exceptionally well is condiments, and you can bag a range of soy and chili sauces, bean curd, stir fry mixes, and good old fashioned Siriracha. Having said that, our favourite bit is at the back, where they sell a variety of Asian kitchen products which are largely impractical for western chefs but a great way to make you feel like a cooking pro and impress your friends – ‘hey Sally, you mean you DON’T have a glutinous rice strainer? Hmmmm’.
The wonderfully surreal element of Longdan is that they stock some items so specialised that it makes you feel as if you’re in a supermarket in China. These include chicken feet, snouts, nerves, testicles and, on one visit, brains*. Ever have a craving for mud fish or pangasius? Well they can sort you out. More mainstream watery things can be found in the guise of clams, anchovies and prawns. And if you ever feel that what is really missing in your life is a mini Buddhist Chinese shrine, then they’ve got you covered. The Vietnamese street food restaurant that used to be attached to Longdan is sadly now gone, but the silver lining is that you can now make this at home.
*Vegans might want to give this place a wide berth. Or just order online.
