It’s a Big Town

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In spite of Rishi Sunak’s lauded £10 meal deal, some Greater Kenningtonians are still  reluctant to eat out. This is understandable, as some of our neighbours are taking social distancing about as seriously as, let’s be honest, licking a doorknob. The Runoff team used this reality as a flimsy excuse to order takeaway last week. If you are a regular reader you can probably surmise that this was  not going to be a traditional undertaking, and after research and recommendations we reached a very logical conclusion. Of course, Nigerian street food from Walworth Road.

Big Town is a newish, funky Nigerian street food outlet on Walworth Road just across the street from M&S. Not knowing a great deal about Nigerian cuisine, we took to the internet for recommendations and expectations and ordered the  following –

Jollof rice is most familiar staple of Nigerian food, and we ordered prawn jollof (other meat and veg options were also on offer). It was a generous and delicately spiced affair. Next was the beef suya, which were blackened and grilled strips of beef with a peanut rub, with the consistency of jerky. A bit of a spice kick in the end. The suya chicken wings were also ordered, which were cooked the same way but very much fell off the bone. Both of these dishes were punctuated by a rash of onions.

  • Jollof
  • Beef
  • Chicken wings

The most interesting  item your intrepid gastronomes consumed was the eguasi soup (we opted for the fish variety). Less like a soup and more like a curry, it was a blow your head off collision of scotch bonnet meets palm oil (we know palm oil is evil so please forgive us). It seemed to contain a pureed gourd or squash and definitely pureed onion. It also contained melon. If you order this just ensure you have a giant glass of water to hand. Or in our case wine. 

Eguasi. Look, we never claimed to be professional photographers.

Nigerian cuisine doesn’t exactly meet the lofty altitudes of Italian or Chinese nor does it claim to. However, for a takeway adventure of a weekend it is a great alternative to pizza or chow mein. With hindsight this was rather ‘in your face’ cooking in terms of heat and spices.  And after a full Nigerian meal you certainly won’t be feeling the pang to lick doorknobs.  

Getting a bit botanical in Montford Place

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The Beefeater Distillery became an ‘experience’ in 2014 and since then the Runoff has been keen to visit.  However, we rather balked at the notion of shelling out £16 a head to tour what is in essence a factory, even with the added benefit of getting sozzeled in the end. So when we saw that #beinvauxhall were offering two for one tickets we leapt at the chance. We wrote a little missive about the history of Beefeater in Kennington last year. 

The Beefeater experience starts self guided, with a very slick history of the sauce, covering everything from the ‘gin lane’ era of Hogarth and unregulated spirits, to US prohibtion and the rise of the speakeasy. Intertwined are fun little videos about how gin is produced and the propagation of gin distilleries in London over the years. 

Our enthusiastic Italian tour guide Maria took over for the second part of the tour and put more depth into the gin making process. In the tasting room we sampled different kinds of gin and the botanicals that give different varieties their unique flavour. This included not only juniper but also orange peel, coriander, tea, licorice, and angelica seed. Our only slight digression was when Maria asked ‘so what does that remind you of’ and your scribe shouted ‘Bombay Sapphire’. Moving on…

The last part of our journey was indeed the most fascinating as we had a very informative tour of the stills and learned more about the distillation process. Maria was also able to verify a long held Kennington urban myth-…..only five people are employed and produce all of the Beefeater gin sent around the globe. 

The event ended with a G&T in their tasting room and we left with the best of both worlds – feeling cerebrally enhanced and a bit tipsy. With the added benefit of being able to say to our mates with confidence – ‘yeah, I’m really getting heavy notes of angelica seed here’. 

The Be in Vauxhall deal runs at least until the end of the year, and details can be found here.  Even if Be in Vauxhall is a faceless marketing company they still seem to know what’s going on, so its fun to have a root around their website if nothing else.

Zeitgeist – German beer heaven

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If we told you there was a German restaurant in Greater Kennington you’d probably say ‘get the schntizel outta here’. Well there is – and it’s a gastropub called Zeitgeist in Black Prince Road. The Ethelred estate seems like a rather implausible place for a pub geared at the German community, so we donned our Alpine headwear to check it out. 

Zeitgest has a host of German beers including Pils, Helles, Hefeweizen, Kolsch and Altbier all on draft, with some bottled beers as well. A pint came gratis with our meal, which was a bonus. Of course eating was involved, and I had the Zeitgeist Flammkuchen, which is a kind of Alsace pizza. The base was extremely thin and crumbly, and the pizza consisted simply of munster cheese with pastrami. I’m not exactly sure why it was served on a piece of torn cardboard but lets just call that ‘rustic’, shall we? 

My dining partner had the Jager Schnitzel, which consisted of a generous chunk of veal, well breaded, and a creamy mushroom sauce. The huge pile of chips beneath it, unfortunately, had spent most of their short lives in a freezer.

In summary, let’s just say that eating at Zeitgeist is an activity best undertaken when you’re not entirely sober. But that’s easy, as for the German beers they have 18 on tap varying from the big German brands to the more niche. It’s also a fun environment and usually shows German football and plays 80’s music. The free beer with a mains ends on 31 August so you better get your Gesäß in motion. 

Sayer Street

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We hope you are enjoying ‘Eat out to help out’ – or as we call it – ‘The Rishi Sunak £10 meal deal’ as much as we are. In fact, we find ourselves using the 50% discount as a flimsy excuse to eat out twice as much. And as we say with a mouthful of that seventh slice of pizza ‘it’s all about saving local business’. 

The jury is still out as to whether the mind boggling juggernaut that is Elephant Park is actually in the Runoff catchment area (don’t get your hopes up). However, a nifty little street has popped up there in recent months and it is proving quite the go to spot for foodies. Sayer St* has an array of independent food joints that includes Chinese, Italian street food, jerk chicken, ramen, a few coffee places, and more on the way. 

Sayer St. is anchored by a large and swish looking establishment called ‘Bobo Social‘. To us Bobo sounds like the name you’d give a yappy dog sticking out of a handbag, but we decided to go for a drink and check the place out as it received rave reviews in it’s previous location in Fitzrovia. This place ticks all the boxes for what the hip Elephant Park demographic crave at the moment. Brunch – tick. Fancy cocktails – got ‘em, strange but alluring sounding burgers – by the spadeful. Oh and what else is hmm, yes.. small plates! . The small plates that past our way looked and smelled lovely and looked great, such as braised lamb croquettes and chili squid. And as you can guess, the West End prices now sit snugly in Elephant.

A number of Sayer Street restaurants are participating in ‘Eat out to help out’ but remember to make reservations first.

*Sadly not named after washed up 70’s pop star, Leo Sayer.

Windmill Mary

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Last week we had a botanically themed exchange with  Mary Wallicott of Windmill Flowers.  Windmill Flowers in Windmill Row has been a staple of our knighted shire since 2011, and we were keen to know more about providing flowers in a time of pandemic and how she survived with her shop being closed for a number of months. 

We had always assumed that ‘Windmill Mary’ actually lived above her shop in a sort of floral Disneyworld. However, she and her husband actually live in Courtney St. Locals have always provided the backbone to Mary’s business,  and  local support helped her a great deal during lockdown, with noted support just before shops closed in March. During lockdown she undertook ‘click and collect’ and also relied on the use of couriers, and as a result Mother’s Day was better than expected. However, providing flowers for Oval Cricket Ground and summer weddings wasn’t possible for obvious reasons. 

As we teeter further towards a life of semi normality, Windmill Flowers is very much open for business and Mary takes orders online, over the phone and in person. Summer is usually more quiet for Mary, but during our chat she had just finished a wedding and was preparing for another. As most bouquets and arrangements are made bespoke, it is probably easier to order for future collection than on the spot, but the latter is possible. She also sells a collection of pots, vases, and flower related objects.  

As Mary is one of those rare creatures who both lives and works locally, we asked her about her favourite spots in Kennington. She enjoys 24 The Oval for a spot of food, Vanilla Black for a spot of brunch, and the Black Prince Pub for an evening drink. With the latter Mary was pleasantly surprised (as I think many of us were) that it actually has an  outside space. As with Mary,  it’s all about shopping locally. 

From workshops to squatters – a social history of the Pullens estate

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If you live in Walworth, or just walk through it, you’ve probably noticed a very fine example of Victorian tenement style dwellings in Penton Place. These are the remaining buildings of the Pullens estate. They have a very curious history, boys and girls, and we’re going to tell you about their history of workmen and squatters rights. 

The Pullens estate was made of 684 almost identical one bedroom dwellings with 106 workshops behind (in Clements, Pecock and Illfie Yards, which remain). This was an early version of a live/work space as most of the people worked in the workshops and cobbled streets behind the buildings.  This contrasts with the later Peabody dwellings which just focused on housing families. While the dwellings proved wildly popular, not a great deal is known about the workshops.  

Zoom ahead to the 1977 and, in the eyes of Southwark, the estate was in serious decline and they wanted it demolished. After a high court battle half of the estate was demolished and half remained. The battle emboldened the residents, who formed a tight knit community in order to fend off future threats. To combat this, Southwark decided to stop letting out properties as they became vacant. With the support of the Tenants Association, the properties were given over to squatters who acted as caretakers. During two drawn out legal procedures in the 1980’s over threatened evictions, public interest in the plight of the squatters grew and it gained national attention. 

By 1986 Southwark had enough, and on 10 June the bailiffs moved in to evict the squatters. The residents were prepared, and many barricaded their homes against forced entry. 26 people were evicted, but as the bailiffs did not understand the unique layouts of the buildings, many just shifted their belongings and moved back in again. This became known at the ‘Battle of the Pullens’. Negotiations followed afterwards which led to the squatters being awarded caretakers rights and plans to demolish the rest of the estate were abandoned. The association were also responsible for turning the site of a demolished building into a park. It is now Pullen’s Gardens and a lovely place for a spot of lunch. 

The Rishi Sunak £10 meal deal

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To stimulate the economy and get people spending again Rishi Sunak –Chancellor of the Exchequer and the most implausible waiter in history –introduced ‘Eat Out to Help Out’ which took effect on 3 August. The scheme entitles diners to 50% off their main meal (no booze) up to a value of £10 in both restaurants and pubs. If you’ve seen the crowds in Greater Kennington restaurants over the past few days, this is the reason. 

We decided to inaugurate the season visiting local French bistro Toulouse Lautrec. TL has been hit by a double whammy of being closed for the past three months both as a restaurant and as a live Jazz venue. Your ravenous scribe had the chicken chasseur; a meaty chicken dish with spiced tomato sauce, well cooked mushrooms, and just the right amount of tarragon. As it was served in the skillet that kept it at the right temperature to be served on a plate with homemade mash. Highly recommended.


My associate indulged in the confit duck burger served deboned on a sesame brioche bun with a surprisingly smoky relish. We don’t usually associate smoky with French food but it worked. Said associate got far too excited about the homemade mayonnaise and chunky chips, which were as massive as they appear in the image. For the dessert, my associate had the (insert breathy female Masterchef porn voice) melting molten chocolate fondant —– with hazelnut ice cream. Without the additives (i.e. wine) our bill came to just under £29, which for a French meal and a pudding ain’t that bad.

There are a lot of local restaurants taking part in this scheme. To see if your favourite is on the list stick your postcode into this snazzy thing to find out. You know you want to…

Vauxhall City Farm

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This week saw the reopening of our own little slice of the country in Greater Kennington, the beloved Vauxhall City Farm. We decided to pop along yesterday to commune with the critters and have a spot of lunch. 

Being closed for four months has not been kind down on the Farm, and if you follow them on social media you might have noticed that they started a #savevauxhallcityfarm campain a few months back to keep their heads above water. We can officially proclaim that all is back to normal, with a few added hand sanitizers dotted around and markings on the floor.

On the food front, the options are more limited for the time being and on our visit they had quiche, orzo pasta, beetroot, croissants, cookies, and grilled cheese sandwiches. They also have ice cream and a small gift shop. If the Farm is going succeed it needs good folk like yourself to get over there and start eating. 

If you’ve never been to the Farm before, it’s totally free and even fun for grown ups, but not open every day so check the website. You can feed some of the animals, and our visit we spotted alpaca, turkeys, goats, sheep, bunnies and one enormous pig. My colleague got a few glares when they proclaimed ‘I really fancy a bacon sarnie right now’, so hopefully you will be more sensitive. 

And yes, we got over excited when we bought green eggs, and so can you! 

Runoff gets cultural

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Pimlico isn’t in Greater Kennington, so let us apologise in advance. However, you can actually kind of see it from Greater Kennington, so yesterday we packed our passport to Pimlico to check out Tate Britain on it’s first week of reopening. 

There have been split opinions in the media about the efficacy of reopening museums in the midst of a pandemic. Some see it as unsafe and also burdensome to have to be allocated a slot to view a painting, while others see it as crucial to an institutions’ survival and a source of inspiration for folks. All public galleries in London now operate via timed entry only, booked online (which means you can’t just swan in off the street). At Tate you are asked to choose two ‘routes’ through the free stuff; 1540-1890 or 1930-now.  Booking was easy enough with plenty of open slots.

We approached the gallery with an ominous feeling that we might be the only people in there, but were pleasantly surprised. It was about as busy as usual and felt quite normal (well if your definition of normal extends to walking around looking like a bank robber). There were arrows on the floor to guide you through the collections but it was more or less the route taken anyway, and there was no harm in visiting a previous room if you desire. There was no queuing in front of paintings and the rooms felt well spread out, with plenty of gallery guides present to ensure that it stayed that way. 

Some of the rooms are closed (such as the Turner galleries) but most are open. The giftshop and Djanogly café are open, and the acclaimed ‘Steve McQueen Year 3’ exhibit in the main gallery has been extended. The cloakroom ain’t gonna happen, however, so leave your giant suitcase at home and enjoy!  Oh, and the exit is now through a small door in the cafe.