From Russia with love

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We here at the Runoff are an absolute minefield of vaguely interesting trivia, but some of it happens to be fascinating indeed.  Did you know that the Russian word for a major rail station is ‘Vokzal’. Remind you of anything? Here’s a clue…think of a lot of dazed clubbers, bus fumes, and a ski ramp. 

Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens (and if you haven’t heard of it, there have been whole books written about it) was one of several  pleasure gardens in London which were enjoyed by the masses until they fizzled out in the mid 19th century. The activities at Vauxhall included fireworks, balloon rides, concerts, and candlelit walks. Vauxhall was hugely influential on the continent and its attractions replicated many times over. Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen was originally called ‘Tivoli and Vauxhall’, in fact. 

The grounds of Pavlovsk Palace near St. Petersburg were converted into pleasure gardens in the 1840’s and called ‘Vokzal’ as a nod to its inspiration in London. The first railway in Russia served the Imperial family and ran between St. Petersburg and the palace itself. When the railway was opened to the public the station was emblazoned with the word ‘Vokzal’. The purpose of this was to indicate the terminus of the train, but the station itself became known as ‘Vokzal’ and this eventually became  the generic term for all rail termini in Russia. 

There are plenty of interesting theories about  how the Vokzal name stuck, including an incorrect one from The Independent about a visiting Russian delegation.  (the Russian railway predates Vauxhall station by a year). Today the name seems to crop up quite a bit across the old USSR, from restaurants to clothing stores…Это увлекательно или как?

Nue Ground in a new ground

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Rightly or wrongly we may be teetering towards a vague genre of semi-normal – some local pubs are serving takeaway pints and Kennington Park is looking more like the Pyramid stage at Glastonbury. What we never expected to see so soon, however, is a new café opening in Greater Kennington. 

Nue Ground is a very bright and zippy café located on the ground floor of the new ‘Millennials only’ high rise ‘Uncle’ on the Kennington side of Elephant. The original Nue Ground is in Clapham and serves sandwiches and light dinners. The offerings at our outlet are more limited and primarily breakfast related, but maintains the company ethos of being ‘healthy, well balanced and as ethically sourced as possible’. 

My dining partner had the very heartily sized baked eggs which were well cooked and not too hard. It featured some lovely butterbeans and sweet peppers and seasoned with labneh and harissa. Your scribe had a very virtuous granola with huge blackberries and raspberries with a coconut flavoured yogurt and a dusting of pistachios. When we were there we also oogled over some pretty cakes. 

We have the utmost respect for Neu Ground and certainly hope they succeed. The only downsides being that it is kind of expensive for what it is, and the wait staff are still learning how to do their job (we were given cold coffee twice). In these exceptional times we have to take pleasure in the small stuff, and if nothing else it feels very refreshing to walk into an actual establishment and order something from a menu. But if you can’t walk in,  Nue Ground is also on Deliveroo. 

Farming down in the Oval

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When we’re not rearranging our unread collection of classic literature to make them feature more prominently on ‘Zoom’  calls, we often spend our lunch hour treading the local pavements looking for good food and ingredients. A long standing favourite was always Oval Farmers Market in St. Marks churchyard. Rain or shine they offered locals a great selection of fish, cheeses (real cheese, not the Tesco kind that tastes like a pencil eraser), cakes, and herbs – most at prices cheaper than Borough Market. As the market was in a pretty confined space it was doomed when The Event happened, but after six weeks it is back in business just up the road. The resurrection commences this weekend, but the reality of social distancing means that sniffing the merch just isn’t going to happen. 

Newish restaurant 24 The Oval in Clapham Road has transformed into a kind of farmer’s market itself recently (OK, about six weeks ago but we’re busy) and we recently popped along to check it out. We had our eyes on some hearty rhubarb, strawberries, huge peppers, and a nice variety of tomatoes. Their craft brewery room downstairs sells a variety of pale ales and lagers and you can take the bottles away again and then get a refill. The Oval also has a small hot takeaway menu of some of their best dishes such as coq au vin, beef sirloin, and beetroot risotto. Their changing menu is on Facebook and Instagram. The downside of 24 The Oval is there is often a lengthy queue to get in. But as they say, good things come to those who wait. Or something. 

    The last great epidemic of Greater Kennington

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    History has an unusual system of circularity, and The Event that has engulfed the world is in many respects very similar to one experienced in early Victorian Greater Kennington. So bring those sparklingly clean hands forward boys and girls, as we are going to tell you about another misunderstood epidemic borne out of a need for greater hygiene. 

    In the first half of the nineteenth century Lambeth’s waterfront was the industrial hub of London, with factories  such Royal Doulton lining the waterfront between Black Prince Road and Spring Gardens and disgorging pollutants into the air and water. The area behind the factories was populated primary by migrants from the countryside and a famine stricken Ireland (and now ironically populated by multizillion pound flats, but moving on..) who struggled for survival and lacked basic sanitation. As the area was built haphazardly on damp marshland (this was before the embankment of the Thames) there were no standpipes for water and the folks had no choice but to obtain their drinking water directly from the Thames. And we’ll leave it up to you to imagine what kinds of matter were deposited in the river at the time.

    The Thames was the source of contagion when cholera struck Lambeth in October, 1848, resulting in the death of almost 2000 local men, women and children. At the time it was believed that cholera was transmitted through the air in foul smells, and foul smells were abundant in this industrial wasteland. Our patch of Lambeth was one of the first places studied by pioneering epidemiologist John Snow (no, not that one) who, after seeing people dipping pails into the river for drinking water, began his path to discovering that cholera was a water borne illness. Proof that science can prevail in times of darkness. 

    A headstone of the time of cholera

    Of the people who perished, many were buried in unmarked graves in the cemetery of St. Mary’s church (now the Gardening Museum). The graveyard is now Old Paradise Park and is a little gem of solitude behind the high rises. On your daily and now unlimited walk stop to notice the headstones of the many residents of Lambeth who were contemporaries of those 2000 who perished, but who had a more dignified send off.  And in the middle of Paradise Gardens you’ll encounter a solitary standpipe, which acts as a fitting monument to those buried beneath it. 

    Hem’s Kitchen

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    At this difficult time we all need more carbs and sweets in our lives, and to address this we recently had a socially responsible interview with Kennington cook and baker Hema Sabina,  founder of ‘Hem’s Kitchen’.  However, before the interview we decided to sample some of Hema’s signature Turkish bread. One loaf was flecked with fennel and the other with sesame, and they were delicious. At least we think they were as we ate them in about nine minutes. And after signing a twelve page non disclosure agreement Hema even delivered said loaves to our top secret Runoff HQ. 

    Hema is a true Kennington native having grown up, and still living, in Black Prince Road. Her passion for cooking derives from creating a cookbook of family recipes for her mother. The legacy of these dishes was passed down mostly orally, and with a great deal of trial and error Hema was able to record and preserve them for her family.  This was also the genesis for her other passion, food photography. As you can see by the recent attempt to photograph our takeway, where it looks as if a cat has walked across our plates, photographing food is a real skill and one that Hema has also pursued professionally. 

    A few years ago Hema decided to share her crafty skills in the kitchen by creating some cooking videos which now populate her YouTube channel and are very straightforward. Never one sit idly by, when The Event happened earlier this year Hema decided to share these skills further by delivering some of her delicious baked goods direct to local folk.  The Breads that Hema currently has available are – Sourdough, Turkish Bread, Classic Artisan Bread, and Challah. For the sweet tooth, Hema has on rotation Banana Bread, Oreo Brownies, Banana and Chocolate Chip Muffins, and Rhubarb and Cinnamon Muffins.

    Hema is able to safely deliver to most homes in Greater Kennington and is flexible about how she is paid (details below). Now we would have been remiss without asking Hema the million quid question, ‘ HOW DO YOU SCORE FLOUR?’. She replied that she gets most of her flour at Millars General Store. We’re on the case….

    T: 07956 130 734

    W: www.hemaphotography.com

    I: www.instagram.com/hemskitchen

    Y: www.hemskitchen.com

    A taste of takeaways and pubs

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    We have to face up to the reality that we won’t be eating in a Greater Kennington restaurant any time soon. And when we do, we might encounter the indignity of having to shout ‘hey, can I have some more ketchup please’ from across a socially distanced room. To address this, some local restaurants are offering a takeaway or collection service with a limited menu. The places offering this service generally let you know via social media.

    One of our favourite local takeaways is unsung gem ‘Taste of India’ next to the bike shop in Kennington Road. On a recent visit my associate had lamb korai, which was heavy on the lamb and onions but a bit light on the spice. Your reporter had the prawn bunha, which had a very good mix of spices, thick gravy and full of tomatoes. On previous visits we’ve enjoyed the madras and jalfrezi, which certainly delivered on the spice front.  Side dishes are always a highlight with Indian food, and we recommend the huge, crunchy onion bhajis,  garlc naan bread, and tarka daal. 

    The lamb, or ‘this is why we aren’t food photographers’
    The prawn. Honestly, it tastes better than it looks.

    While it might not possess the Prime Ministerial credentials or razzmatazz of Kennington Tandoori, we think Taste of India *prepares for hate mail* is better. Taste of India doesn’t quite achieve the culinary highs of Gandhi’s, but sadly it isn’t open. And if you don’t fancy Indian food but you still want to sample the fare at ‘Taste of India’, then why not plump for their…..wait for it…….sushi!  

    Over the past week a few local pubs have also opened offering takeaway drinks and a reduced menu, for collection only. We’re very excited about this development and enjoyed a pint at The Doghouse on Friday night, and then another at The Black Prince.  This goes a bit to retaining a sense of normality and also helps these small businesses. We suggest you take your drinks home, however,  to avoid being known as ‘that street drinker who lives a few doors down’. Other pubs further afield might be offering this service, so again check them out on social media and eat safely. 

    Blitz Children

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    The other day we were on our permitted one hour perambulation in Vauxhall and stumbled across a quite poignant sculpture. We put it on Instagram (where we’re much more clever) and that started a small conversation about its origins. This spiked our curiosity, so we decided to step back from trying to remember what day of the week it is our hectic schedule of Zoom meetings, to undertake some research. 

    Following the war there was a shift from commemorative to public sculpture as a way to lift spirits and add to public enrichment. However, after the war Lambeth were seriously short of cash. Equally skint was Hungarian artist Peter Peri, who was able to make works cheaply by means of applying moulded concrete onto wire mesh. When local authorities began commissioning artists to create works in newly constructed housing estates, he put has name forward and he was commissioned to create three works in Vauxhall and Oval. 

    The sculpture in Vauxhall is called ‘Following the Leader’ and was created between 1949-1952. This moving composition depicts children holding hands in a spiral to the sky, as an homage to children killed during the blitz.  Fortunately it is Grade II listed. The other two sculptures are in Oval are of slightly lower quality but still very interesting (both below). ‘Boys Playing Football’ depicts a group of lads doing just that, kitted out in their awkward leather boots. ‘Children Playing’ depicts a mum playing ring o’roses with her children. Curiously, all three works face internal courtyards. Perhaps this testifies to Mr. Peri’s background as a socialist and champion of everyday folk. 

    One of our goals as the Runoff is to get people out of the house and explore, but of course this is largely not possible at the moment. But if you find that your daily exercise is getting a tad bit monotonous, set these little gems as your destination:

    Following the Leader – on Darley House, Laud St. 

    Boys Playing Football – on Wareham House, Carroun St. 

    Children Playing – on Horton House, Meadow Road. 

    The pieces in Oval are very close to one another.

    Wine Affairs

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    In these unprecedented times drinking wine is very important. We here at the Runoff are propelled by the ‘power of the PG’s’. Namely, PG Tips and Pinot Grigio. The former we can  easily pick up at our local ‘Tesco in the car park’. As for the latter, we’ve decided to up our game while also keeping it local. This is when we discovered new wine merchants ‘Wine Affairs’. We recently sat down and had a chat (on Zoom, don’t worry) with Wine Affairs founder Marc Venverloo, who lives in Renfrew Road. 

    Marc and his wine

    Marc lived in France for 30 years, and it was there that he discovered his passion for wine. When he moved to London he found it hard to find quality wines which were also affordable. At the same time his friends began asking for his advice about wines and food/wine pairings. Marc quickly discovered a gap in the market; delivering good French wine while also helping people who are unsure about what wine they want to drink. 

    The price point for Wine Affairs wines is £10-£30 (averaging about £15) and Marc points out that this would be much higher if it were sold in a shop, as they don’t have to pay for shelf space or rent (and this brutal calculus is what saw off our beloved local Oddbins). Navigating the world of wines can be rather intimidating, and Marc assured us that the advice they offer is unfussy and unpretentious. This can be done by emailing or just calling him. 

    As moving bottles of wine around the world isn’t the most environmentally sage thing to do, we’ve picked Marc’s brain about the environmental credentials of Wine Affairs. He said that the bottles live in a warehouse in Essex, and have been sourced from independent wine makers who take care of their soil and use organic or bio dynamic methods. Some of these producers Marc knew when he lived in France and he has an established relationship with them. 

    And why, you might ask, did Marc decide to settle in our shire? As it turns out his wife Laura and brother in law Gavin are that very rare breed — true natives of Greater Kennington, having grown up in Elephant and Castle. You don’t get much more local than that.

    As the wine is already in the UK, Marc has informed us that they offer next day delivery, which is just what we need to take the pain away. 

    Once upon a time in Kennington

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    Once upon a time it was possible to go to a place and have a drink with other people. One of those places was in central Kennington and called ‘The Tommyfield’ and they had a cracking stand up night called ‘Always Be Comedy’. We wrote about ABC in July and have been regulars since its inception eight years ago. We’re big fans of the evening as it’s always nice to see up and coming comics in addition to big names, and of course they’re honoured to be in our manor.

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    Last week ABC started a virtual comedy night and we popped along, partially out of curiosity and partially to avoid watching another episode of ‘Tiger King’. They had a few tech problems but considering that they were switching between three comics and the MC, it went pretty well. They have a few upcoming shows and we highly recommend them for a change of pace.

    Wed 15 April – Josh Widdicombe and others

    Wed 22 April –  Sara Pascoe, Nick Helm, and a ‘mystery guest’ (usually a pretty big name)

    Wed 29 April – James Veitch and others

    Wed. 6 May Iain Sterling (the guy who does the voiceover for Love Island….not that we watch it) and others.

    All shows run from about 8 to 10 and the best bit is you can watch in your underwear without being picked on by the comedians. Tickets are a fiver and can be purchased here.

    When this mayhem has subsided places like The Tommyfield and ABC will need our patronage more than ever. When it’s possible to go in the flesh again ABC has a good atmosphere with a fun mix of people. However, on your first visit it’s hard to escape the eerie notion that you’ve just stumbled into a reunion of contestants from ‘The Apprentice’.

    Hang in there, folks. After all, by invoking that wartime spirit we all got through the great toilet roll crisis of late March.