Is Taro Still Tops?

Taro has been in Kennington for four years now and has established itself as a local favourite, and this was certainly in evidence when we visited on a busy Thursday night.  We’re currently revisiting our ‘Top Ten List of Best Places to Eat in Greater Kennington 2024’ winners to see what has fallen out of favour or improved,  and Taro nabbed the #10 spot.  We love Taro for consistently  serving up authentic ‘Izakaya’ fare, roughly meaning, ‘pub food’, but are they still worthy of their noble accolade? We can imagine they’re shaking in their sushi right now awaiting our answer.

On this visit we focused on the sushi section of the menu. The Taro sushi board offered a great mix of different nigiri and couple of rolls, a great option if you want a variety and feel overwhelmed with choice. We also ordered a rainbow roll, a visually arresting inside out roll with crab. The mango roll was an accidental order, where mango is around the outside of the roll. That’s great if you are a mango fan, less so if you don’t usually mix savoury and sweet. We branched out most with the tempura roll. This was a sushi roll, and in this case with prawn and avocado, delicately friend in a light sushi batter. That sounds heavier than it is and generally got the thumbs up as something different. 

We would definitely advise venturing into the vegetable-focused side dish areas of the menu. The agedashi tofu in soy sauce wass silky and delicate. The seaweed salad was a mix of different seaweeds with a dressing forward in wasabi. We know this reads like we’re binge eating, and you might have a point.

What makes Taro work is its commitment to quality Japanese food at a moderate price point. If you want a big occasion meal, you’ll probably venture that small distance to the West End, and good luck with that. What Kenningtonians demand is something that’s good quality and reliable that won’t break the bank…..Oh, and serves cocktails….

Taro, if you’re reading this (and if not you’re missing out) our only note of guidance is to find a way around the unedifying presence of balaclava hooded ‘Just Eat’ delivery drivers in the restaurant, as it rather cheapens the experience. And no one wants to be cheap. 

The Ten Best Restaurants in Greater Kennington #9

(+ One Sunday Roast)

TARO

The number nine spot has been grabbed by the now well established Japanese canteen Taro at the bottom of Kennington Road. Our review below is from 2020, but we’ve been back a number of times since and the food is as reliable as a cocktail party at #10.

Part of the Greater Kennington firmament for over a year now, Taro has consistent delivery of authentic ‘Izakaya’, (roughly meaning ‘pub food’) very similar to  the food you get in Japan, and is good value for money. They also have a menu more diverse than most Izakaya places (not always a good thing but it is in this case), which caters to varied tastes.  Believe it or not there are a number of Japanese joints in our area, but this is acres above the lot (February 2022 – it still is!).

Some staff were in Japan before our Taro visit last year and went to Taro with KR freelance journalist Mark, who lived in Japan for years and served as our culinary attaché. We had sushi (both tempura-maki and other maki) which was fresh and generous on the fish side. We also had fried chicken (above), which was crunchy and equally meaty. For a veg angle we also indulged in juicy tofu steak, with a surfeit of ginger and wasabi. For sides we recommend onshinko pickles and gyoza dipped in soy vinegar. Both veg and meat gyozas are great. The salmon teriyaki bento box at the next table also caught our eye.

Taro can be delivered to your door via Deliveroo,  and you can pop in and take it away. They curiously don’t have a website, but are located at 414 Kennington Road, close to the park.

The top ten best restaurants in Kennington – no. 8 – Taro

Taro - kenningtonrunoff.com

Positives: We were super excited by the arrival of Taro, next to Kennington Post Office, at the end of last year. There are more and more Japanese food options opening up in the area, but some only do takeaway, and not all are well reviewed! SW9 Sushi on Brixton Road in South Kennington is one option for eating in, but Taro, who already have a successful branch in Soho, is a cut above. Really good food, nice and bright interior, and delightful service – they practically give you a round of applause on the way out.

Bento box at Taro - kenningtonrunoff.com

Negatives: None that we’ve found so far; hopefully the honeymoon period will never end.

Pop Art Sushi and sushi in Kennington

Kennington has three sushi restaurants we can think of. SW9 Sushi at 62 Brixton Road is a reasonable neighbourhood Japanese. The Sushi Chef at 1 Kennington Lane (in between Toulouse Lautrec and The Lobster Pot and owned by the same people) mainly does catering for events but you can get individual portions as takeaway and it’s always likely to be fresh. But the strangest and most enjoyable of the three is Pop Art Sushi at the bottom of St George Wharf, facing the Vauxhall Gyratory.

Pop Art Sushi exterior - kenningtonrunoff.com

Why strange? There rarely seems to be anyone in there – we were the only diners throughout our visit. But the sushi and the service are really good, as are the 194 reviews on TripAdvisor which make it the 114th ranked restaurant out of 18,000 in London. What’s more, it doubles up as a pop art gallery, the Amstel Art Gallery (named after its founder so not to be confused with the beer). They say they were the first art gallery in Vauxhall back in 2011. They sell prints by Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein alongside some original pieces by people we’d never heard of.

Roy Lichtenstein print

Roy Lichtenstein print

Imagine if Planet Hollywood did sushi, and pop art. You’ll never have seen a restaurant interior quite like it:

Pop Art Sushi interior - kenningtonrunoff.com

Back to the food. It’s fresh, flavoursome, and affordable. The avocado nigiri (£7.19) were flawless:

avocado nigiri

The sweet potato croquettes were a little on the dry side but only cost £4.19:

sweet potato croquettes

Japan is not renowned for its deserts but these mochis – spice mango rice ice cream balls – were fun:

Mochi - spicy mango rice ice cream balls

Or if you want something more familiar, they do pancakes:

pancakes

We really would recommend paying a visit soon, and we want this unique restaurant to stay open so tell your friends how good it is.

Address: Pop Art Sushi, 8 Wandsworth Road, Unit 7 St. George Wharf, London SW8 2JW.