Theo’s Encore

Astute readers have probably noticed that we are slightly obsessed with Theo’s Pizzeria in Elephant and Castle. Indeed, it nabbed the #2 spot in our recent ‘top ten’ list a few months back. So on a rainy night recently we decided to recreate the feeling of actually dining there by having a takeaway. 

Theo’s is similar in many ways to other indie artisan setups such as Franco Manca and Pizza Pilgrims. But unlike those, Theo’s isn’t propagating like head lice; in fact there are only two outlets. Their regular menu is strategically small and while they are officially closed features just six of their pizzas. At the heart of these pizzas is their chewy, Neapolitan sourdough base which is crispy but at the same time thin enough that we ate them with a fork. Don’t judge us. 

My associate had the ‘Sausage and sweet roast peppers’ which featured tomatoes, capers, mozzarella, olives, oregano and garlic. The tomato sauce had a good sweet and savoury flavour and the mozzarella was springy and fresh. Your scribe had the ‘Anchovy’ pizza which, in addition to the anchovies, featured tomatoes, capers, oregano, garlic, and mozzarella. You might be thinking ‘salt overload’ here, but the balance was just right. And as you can see in the pictures below, the pizzas are slightly charred, giving them a smoky quality which rounds off the whole affair nicely. 

The two pizzas came in at £23. They are available for collection in person or by delivery (we have suspended our opposition to Deliveroo due to lockdown but don’t worry, it will come back). They are open Wednesday to Saturday, 17:00 to 21:00. As we’ve mentioned before, if these places are going to survive they need our custom now for than ever….Because if they close we’ll all be doomed to a world of…..PAPA JOHNS! 

To burn off the calories from a Theo’s pizza you might need to binge watch Joe Wicks workout videos for the next nine days but what the hell, these are strange times. 

The Top Ten Best Restaurants in Kennington – those that didn’t make it

Before we publish our definitive list of the top ten best restaurants in Kennington, we thought we’d shout out of some of those that didn’t quite make it for various reasons fair and foul.

Toulouse Lautrec – they just celebrated their tenth anniversary and we hope they last for many more decades, but when it comes to food, we were more Lobster Pot people (RIP).

Toulouse Lautrec - Kenningtonrunoff.com

Frenchie Bistro – great if you eat duck but not much good for vegans (Artworks where Frenchie Bistro was located has now closed permanently)

The Frenchie Bistro duck breast - kenningtonrunoff.om

Dragon Castle – we once saw a mouse in the dining room and have never been back, but we keep checking the food hygiene rating in vain hope of improvement… what is it with Walworth Road establishments and their dire food hygiene ratings? How long can you be rated as “needing improvement” before the Food Standards Agency take serious action?

Dragon Castle - kenningtonrunoff.com

The White Bear – we like this huge pub with its theatre, garden, beehive and restaurant… We always feel like we’ve left London for a small town in Somerset when we go there. The food is decent but a little overpriced.

The White Bear Theatre Pub new exterior - kenningtonrunoff.com

Rare Burger Co – a welcome addition to the Kennington restaurant scene, with friendly service and beetroot burger and shrimp burger options for non-meat eaters. It just didn’t quite make the top ten. We’re told, although we haven’t had a chance to check this, that Rare Burger Co has closed now – shame if true.

Rare Burger Co shopfront - kenningtonrunoff.com

Above The Stag – the menu at this LGBT+ theatre looks appetising but the one time we tried to eat there, they were closed for a refurb.

Above The Stag - kenningtonrunoff.com

Aobaba – really good Vietnamese food but the atmosphere is hindered by it being in a supermarket with plastic seats and strip lighting.

Aobaba - kenningtonrunoff.com

Nandine – we’ve heard great things about this shack on St George’s Road but decided to limit this list to places you can sit down and eat in the evenings. For places to eat lunch, check out our Top Ten Best Lunch Spots in Kennington list from a while back – most of the places are still open happily.

Theo’s Pizzeria – several people recommended this new pizza place where Mamuśka! used to be on the former Southern roundabout in North Kennington. We asked about vegan options and they said “Vegan customers have either or both of our house salad or a tomato based pizza to which they can add a range of veggie options. We don’t do a vegan cheese but customers often bring their own and we are happy to add that to pizzas”. We appreciate the reply but in an era when Pizza Express offer two vegan pizza options, this wasn’t quite enough to tempt us to Theo’s.

Theo's - kenningtonrunoff.com

Amici – we do eat at Amici, and like their fish dishes, especially in summer in the courtyard, but atmosphere wise we preferred it when it when it was where Doost is now, and almost always full!

Perdoni’s AKA Riverside 2 – we also eat here, but feel it is a little overpriced.

Florentine – friendly but located in one of London’s worst looking buildings (the Park Plaza “Waterloo” hotel), and the food is too salty!

Di Lieto Bakery – this place sounds amazing for pasta but doesn’t qualify because not open in the evenings (yet?).

Café Van Gogh – we haven’t visited yet – no excuses as this sounds right up our street.

Jihwaja/Seveni/Daebak/CheeMC – we love that there are at least four Korean restaurants in the area but left them all out as there’s not much to choose between them. Seveni is probably our favourite for food, Jihwaja for karaoke, and CheeMC for chicken lovers including Jay Rayner.

24 The Oval – this is some people’s favourite restaurant in the area and understandably so, but we’d say it’s better for meat eaters and lovers of rich food. Plus it’s not cheap.

24 The Oval exterior - kenningtonrunoff.com