Jonathan Tyers and the Pinnacle of the Pleasure Gardens

From the archives, the third edition of our month of best history posts

If you’re a new arrival in the area or your interests are not so much focussed on local history, you might not be aware that for almost two centuries London’s most acclaimed pleasure garden existed on our anointed patch. Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens has been celebrated in books and songs, and even featured at key moments of the recent Netflix hit ‘Bridgerton’. While we can’t do the legendary place justice in the space of a solitary blog, we can crystallise it’s meaning by the man at the helm of its glory days in the first half of the 18th century, and his name was Jonathan Tyers (1702-1767)

A young Jonathan Tyers subletted ‘Vauxhall Spring-Gardens’ in 1729 and undertook the hefty task of reimagining the slightly disreputable old gardens into an innocent and elegant venue for families and people of all classes. However, with an admission charge of one shilling  in reality it was out of reach for most people. He  was inspired by a meeting with artist and buzzkill moralist William Hogarth, who advocated  the value of creating something that sent a moral message cloaked in the guise of humour and entertainment. We now refer to this as ‘family friendly’. 

The egalitarian and polite nature of Spring Gardens was a welcome and needed riposte to a London that was violent, smelly and uncouth and it would kick start the civilisation of Georgian London. However noble, the Spring Garden regulars were still out for a bit of bawdy fun and didn’t take kindly to being preached to. Tyers had to think on his feet before the whole thing went belly up, and his masterstroke was that beyond the elegant supper boxes and promenading avenues he created a wooded and dark area called the Grove. We will leave it up your imagination what went on in the Grove, but let’s just say it was dark and proved very popular. 

Assignations aside, what Tyers created for those who could afford it was a site for music, dancing, eating and drinking. The paintings in the supper boxes made it in reality the first public art gallery in Britain. On a typical night revellers could be entertained by performers, bands, fireworks, operas and masquerades. George Fredrick Handel became a kind of ‘artist in residence’ at the Garden and performed there regularly. When Tyers made profits he drove them directly into new structures and events, making the spot a ‘must see’ on a regular basis. After Tyers’ death in 1767 the Gardens were passed to his son and this initiated the very slow but inexorable decline of the place. 

The precise location of Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens only roughly matches the footprint of the current Pleasure Gardens (created in the late 1970’s), and it’s epicentre was at the current St. Peter’s Church. Rumours of redemption from carnal sin abound about the decision to place a church on this site, and we invite you to make your own conclusion. Tyers Street is a commemoration of his efforts, both lurid and noble.

And as you can see, dear readers, attempts to gentrify Vauxhall from a place of dissolute debauchery into something more agreeable to a wealthier public for profit making purposes is by no means a contemporary undertaking. 

Cabinet, Beaconsfield and a Spot of Tea

For a number of years we’ve been trying to ascertain the function of that strange building that popped up at the back of Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens a few years ago. Resembling a posh persons’ house meets North Korean torture centre, it’s actually mostly dedicated to the very intriguing Cabinet Gallery. The current show somehow manages to make a connection between a horse drawn carriage and Oprah so it might be a bit of a stretch for some, but this place is definitely something for that pocket diary that we’ve been telling you get for years now. Check out the website for what’s on. 


As we were up in the lovely upper Vauxhall neck of the woods anyway, we checked out the critically acclaimed but rarely open Beaconsfield Galley. It’s open this Saturday (12th) and the next (19th) showing one large immersive work by Korean/Uk artist JinHan Lee called ‘Extended Realities’. The concept is an exploration of themes of virtual versus material art and how (or if) they complement one another. Very thought provoking and out questions the limits of how much we can take in without actually seeing it.


All that culture was proving exhausting to our lockdown addled  brains, so we popped into the wistfully eccentric Tea House Theatre for some tea and sandwiches. The sandwiches needed a bit of work (and if you’re reading this Tea House we’re wagging a coronation chicken stained finger at you) but the list of teas were endless and the cakes abundant. Check out their eclectic website for things that are going on there such as themed suppers, talks and kids stuff. When we visited they were even offering a course in….wait for it….picking locks! Another for that pocket diary that you’re on the very cusp of purchasing with your newly socially activated fingertips. 

From Russia with love

We here at the Runoff are an absolute minefield of vaguely interesting trivia, but some of it happens to be fascinating indeed.  Did you know that the Russian word for a major rail station is ‘Vokzal’. Remind you of anything? Here’s a clue…think of a lot of dazed clubbers, bus fumes, and a ski ramp. 

Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens (and if you haven’t heard of it, there have been whole books written about it) was one of several  pleasure gardens in London which were enjoyed by the masses until they fizzled out in the mid 19th century. The activities at Vauxhall included fireworks, balloon rides, concerts, and candlelit walks. Vauxhall was hugely influential on the continent and its attractions replicated many times over. Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen was originally called ‘Tivoli and Vauxhall’, in fact. 

The grounds of Pavlovsk Palace near St. Petersburg were converted into pleasure gardens in the 1840’s and called ‘Vokzal’ as a nod to its inspiration in London. The first railway in Russia served the Imperial family and ran between St. Petersburg and the palace itself. When the railway was opened to the public the station was emblazoned with the word ‘Vokzal’. The purpose of this was to indicate the terminus of the train, but the station itself became known as ‘Vokzal’ and this eventually became  the generic term for all rail termini in Russia. 

There are plenty of interesting theories about  how the Vokzal name stuck, including an incorrect one from The Independent about a visiting Russian delegation.  (the Russian railway predates Vauxhall station by a year). Today the name seems to crop up quite a bit across the old USSR, from restaurants to clothing stores…Это увлекательно или как?

Mother Kelly’s Taproom Vauxhall

Like Cottons, Mother Kelly’s is another independent retailer-turned-chain who recently arrived in West Kennington (they were already in Bethnal Green, Homerton, Stoke Newington and Portlandia).

Mother Kelly's outdoor seating - kenningtonrunoff.com

In fact the Vauxhall branch is their biggest, with a bottle shop on Albert Embankment, outside seating facing Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens (above), and a massive tap room with 33 different beers on tap under the railway arch in between:

Mother Kelly's interior - kenningtonrunoff.com

Great news for lovers of craft beers like us, but it’s not cheap. The first we heard of Mother Kelly’s coming to Vauxhall was this tweet:

https://twitter.com/fionamacmac/status/898606567871832065

Craft beer for people who live in towerblocks designed by Versace, you might think. But the beers were great and the atmosphere was welcoming so we’ll be back.

Here’s the bottle shop:

Mother Kelly's IPAs and others - kenningtonrunoff.com Mother Kelly's pale ales and others - kenningtonrunoff.com

They also sell Mother Kelly’s merch:

Mother Kelly's merch - kenningtonrunoff.com

When we were there, their food offering was meat boards (£10), veg boards (£7.50), cheese boards (£9.50), chocolate boards (£6.50), olives and bread, and sandwiches, but they also host food trucks.

Mother Kelly’s, 76 Albert Embankment, London SE1 7TP

+44 (0) 20 7091 9779

 

The Top Ten Best Lunch Spots in Kennington – no. 9 – Tea House Theatre

Tea House Theatre - Kenningtonrunoff.com

Positives: They transformed a former pub into a tea house with a lot of personality. A convivial setting, on what is now called Vauxhall Walk Square, on the edge of Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens. At lunch, they do a good Welsh rarebit, a kedgeree, and just about every type of tea you could think of. Sometimes there’s live music, and it’s an events space at night, for everything from poetry to ballroom dancing to, yes, theatre. It’s Kennington’s most baby-friendly venue – they will roll out the red changing mat for you and your little one.

Tea House Theatre cakes and tea - kenningtonrunoff.com

Negatives: About those babies – if you don’t want to eat lunch surrounded by NCT groups, you’re in the wrong place. Being militant about tea, they don’t serve coffee. There’s a big choice of cakes but they are all intensely creamy and rich.

Update in 2019: Did we mention they hate milennials and love Nigel Farage and Brexit?

Cakes at the Tea House Theatre - kenningtonrunoff.com

Hygiene rating: 4 out of 5

Address: 139 Vauxhall Walk, London SE11 5HL

Website

Come back next Sunday to see what’s at no. 8.

The Tea House Theatre

On the edge of Spring Gardens, between the Black Dog and Vauxhall City Farm, is a unique kind of tea house. There’s a huge range of loose leaf teas, but be prepared to pay Mayfair prices for the specialty teas, or plump for a mug of Tetley for £1. They’re so militant about their tea that they make a point of not serving coffee, but they do have a big choice of cakes, plus breakfasts and lunches. There are board games. And yes, sometimes there is theatre, not to mention film screenings, a knitting club, chess club, and a debating society (more like a Radio 4 panel game). It’s also exceptionally baby friendly – sometimes it feels like the babies outnumber the adults.

Tea House Theatre - Kenningtonrunoff.com

Tea House Theatre cakes and tea - kenningtonrunoff.com

If you’re wondering why there are stacks of The Dangerous Book for Boys around the place, one of its authors Hal Iggulden is director of the Tea House Theatre.

The Dangerous Books For Boys in the Tea House Theatre - kenningtonrunoff.com