About Kennington Observer

Surreptitiously observing Kennington, including the suburbs Vauxhall, Oval, Walworth, and Elephant since 2012. We're fiercely independent and never boring.

Savage @ White Bear Theatre

You probably think that all we do here at the Observer is eat out and drink. While this is largely true, we’re also a cultured office and we like to imbibe a play now and again. So we find ourselves at the White Bear Theatre to see the play ‘Savage’. If you’re not aware of the Bear, it’s a space upstairs at the White Bear pub that’s been focussed on new and cutting edge writing since it was founded in the 80’s.

Our play starts in Copenhagen, 1940, and homosexuality is legal until Nazi tanks roll into town. Nikolai and Zack are enjoying a clandestine relationship that they subtly accept is doomed, and doom is sealed when they are arrested and encounter Dr. Carl Vaernet, who claims to have discovered a cure for homosexuality involving the injection of monkey testosterone. This absurd reality is underlined by a visiting SS officer who takes an  overcurious interest in this innovation as he sips his champagne cocktails to endless, gun toting  abandon. We are strategically avoiding more detail here as we don’t undertake plot spoilers, as that would make us no better than Time Out. But our tale takes us from Copenhagen to Prague to Connecticut via the home of an altruistic nurse.

On this visit your scribe was accompanied by our new Diversity czar Kevin (whose claims of diversity seem to extend to having had a Spanish boyfriend for a few months). He observed the real chemistry between the two leads and noted their passion for one another while anticipating the powers that will doom their love. As a contrast there’s a much more troubled relationship here, but that’s for you to discover, dear reader. This is also a lesson in the privilege that most of us enjoy while others are left to languish in their vulnerability. Brits being repatriated to the UK while locals living in the Middle East can’t escape shouldn’t be ignored here. Another texture for you to ponder in this topical play.

Savages is a vast undertaking and perhaps the tiny venue does it no justice, but is nevertheless worth seeing. Savages is on now and runs until 15 March at the White Bear and tickets can be grabbed here.  While the theatre is situated within the White Bear pub, it is independently owned and not part of the Youngs mega chain. There’s some twee little fake Kennington memorabilia around the pub to distract you and apparently the food is nice, or so say our mega chain loving friends.  

Please note that in this play there is a trigger warning for people offended by nudity. Equally, there is a trigger warning for people who prefer a bit of nudity.

Faraday and His Powered Up Box

Have you ever stopped and noticed a curious looking steel box in the middle of Elephant and Castle? It’s been there for years, now standing sentinel beside the looming shopping complex as it nears it’s Westfieldian completion. It’s a memorial to Michael Faraday (1791-1867) who was born and raised in nearby Newington Butts. A Chemist and Physicist, Faraday was mostly self educated as his parents had little money. He contributed vastly to electromagnetism and invented the electric motor. In fact, he’s responsible for the little motor inside the device on which you’re reading this. He’s also the dude who used to be on the £20 note (kids, bank notes are something old people used to use to pay for things).

Back to the box. Its 1961 and London Underground needed to construct an electricity substation above ground. The original concept was to encase the substation in glass to allow people a view of what Faraday pioneered. However, out of a fear of vandalism it was designed out of a dimpled stainless steel, giving it an appearance of having been hit repeatedly by a car. Right now you might be thinking ‘vandalism in the Elephant, never!’ but alas, even with its dimpled skin it’s faced indignity in spite of being Grade II listed.

As well as being London’s strangest yet most practical memorial, it comes with the thrilling concept of potential death! (although other buildings in Elephant have proved more lethal). Apparently even if Mr. Faraday in heaven was able to squirrel his way into the box his electromagnetic genius would prove useless and his fate would be sealed in the box, making it the world’s first electromagnetic mausoleum.

The Best Sunday Roast in Greater Kennington

The Dragon Flame @ Orbit Brewery

The never ending top ten list has now reached a glistening climax and multi award winner 24 The Oval has been overthrown by….wait for it…a Brewery! Yes, a tiny pop up in our very own Orbit Brewery in Walworth has stolen the crown. And trust us, we tried on a lot of crowns to anoint this little gem. And most had thorns.

The Dragon Flame is the latest food resident at Orbit and has an emphasis on smoked meats that carries through to the special Sunday Roasts menu that contains a number of smoked options alongside the traditional Sunday Roast trimmings. Our guest chose oak-smoked beef brisket (£24.95) on the basis that brisket is the most classic of smoked meats and a good measure  of meat-smoking expertise. Also on the basis that it cost the most and they knew they were getting a freebie. But the freebie was a winner: generous strips of deeply, but not overpoweringly, smoked strips of brisket arrived draped over the classic vegetables. The brisket itself was soft and tender from a long session in the smoker.

Your scribe had the oak smoked half chicken roast (£22.50). Properly smoked chicken has a deep savoury, tender and intense flavour and this ticked all those boxes, in addition to being juicy and moist. The  carrots and parsnips still had some bite and roast potatoes were flavourful. We were pleased to see braised red cabbage, its sweetness complementing the smoky meat well. Sealing the deal as a high quality plate were an enormous and perfect home-made Yorkshire pudding and generous red wine “jus” (that’s posh for gravy). 

The Dragon Flame is a very hot new entrant to the Kennington Sunday roast scene and we hope it makes other pubs up their two overcooked veg stodge game.  Of course, it’s not cheap: even the vegan option is £18.50. However, this strikes an excellent balance between taking a bit of a new direction (smoked meats) yet keeping all the crowd-pleasing Sunday Roast elements you expect. That you can enjoy this alongside one of Orbit’s excellent range of beers surely seals the deal. We’ve given a swerve around their tzatziki flavoured beer until they run out of all the others, but you might be more adventurous.

#1 The Ten Best Best Places to Eat in Greater Kennington (+ One Sunday Roast)

THEOS

It’s the moment that Observer staff have been fainting in the corridor over (or it could just be that we work in an underground bunker). For the best place to eat in Greater Kennington we’ve chosen Theos in Elephant because of its creative toppings, great sourdough base, their delicious Pannuozzo wood fired lunch sandwiches, tiramisu, and good price point. We are aware that recommending the best pizza in Greater Kennington is fraught with opinionated tension and might even cause small dough based riots in Kennington Cross so we’ve sealed the hole to the bunker. The runner up pizza is the 400 Rabbitts, in Elephant Park for their wonderful bases and decor which makes you feel like you’re eating in aisle 7 of Ikea.

On the pizza front Keith from HR had the aubergine and Gorgonzola. An adventurous choice; the aubergine was very soft and this was offset by the sharp hit of pecorino followed by the blue hit of Gorgonzola. Your scribe had a ‘blood pressure through the roof’ salt kick of an anchovy, capers, olive and mozzarella pizza. All the salty elements were balanced well, and the best element of these pizzas is that they are served on a sourdough bread that is blistered on just the good side of incineration.

Theo’s recently won an award for best Tiramisu in London, and in our opinion it is well deserved. It ticked all the boxes of ‘Italian almost trifle’ with a perfect balance of strong coffee, dark chocolate, creamy mascarpone and served between layers of soft cream. 

While writing this article several staff people became rather obsessed with the very notion of Theos’ panuozzo sandwich so we unlocked the door to the bunker and headed over there. Your scribe had an panuozzo with olives and onions and mozzarella dripping out. To create an illusion of health the base was Ortiz tuna. Keith had the sausage and gorgonzola with mushrooms. Mind you, we will need to run to and from Theos 65 times to burn off the calories, but it was delicious nevertheless.

The tuna, but in reality they all look the same

#2 The Best Places to Eat in Greater Kennington (+ 1 Sunday roast)

Adulis

All good things must come to an end, and after six years at the top spot the lovely Adulis Eritrean in Oval has been dethroned. For almost 30 years Adulis has quietly served up tender and well cooked meats, huge kirchat platters, zingy stews, great service, and all the wait staff have great hair. And they were serving tasty vegetarian fare long before it was cool. And we’re loving the slightly kitsch retro design aesthetic.

If Eritrean food is new to you, or even if it isn’t, the best launching point at Adulis is the sampler plate  called ‘Kirchat’ (there’s a vegetarian version as well). It is fundamentally a selection of their best meat and veg dishes served on a platter usually featuring Kifto, which is tender meat cooked in ‘we know its bad for you but we cant help it’ ghee and its to die for. All of the dishes have have a sweet and sour, almost vinegary tinge to them. They gladly pimped our 2 person serving up to 3 as we had a third diner, and the pic is below.  Please don’t let our bad photo below put you off, as Eritrean dishes don’t in reality look like cat food.

The dish above is served on a platter with a base of bread called ‘injera’, which is a leavened pancake made with sourdough (and if you run out you can get more for free). Almost all meals here are served with it and the whole shebang is to be eaten with your good hands (or cutlery for the timid). We also recommend the chicken stew ‘dorho’ with loads of herbs and further recommend the prawns. They also have some fine looking vegan options.

On the drinks front, we usually have the Kenyan beer ‘Tusker’ or a South African white. Having said that, the speciality of the house is their Adulis honey wine. We’ve had this previously and let’s just place it in the category of ‘experimental’. The staff are very friendly and a good chunk of the punters are (tick!) Eritrean themselves. The place also wafts with the aroma of their coffee and popcorn ceremony.

ርሑስ መመገቢ!

#3 Ten Ten Best Places to Eat in Greater Kennington (+ 1 Sunday Roast)

The Coriander

For reasons purely relating to research we quality controlled Coriander on New Year’s Eve, 2025 and it still deserves the number three spot.

Greater Kenningtontonians are almost as opinionated about their curry as their Sunday roast (which this years winner will surprise you all), but we find that the best hands down to be The Coriander in Vauxhall. We are aware that such a bold assertion is controversial and might make you want to hurl tarka dahl our way but since you don’t actually know who we are that’s not likely to happen.

Coriander specialises in North Indian, Bengali and Nepalese cuisine. The garlic naan is just right – not too thick and herbs going through it. For side dishes, the  baingon motor (aubergine) is  a standout treat, and their other starters cover all the bases of North Indian food. For the mains, our favourites are the chicken tikka naga (above) with hints of cloves, cumin and loads of heat.  All the good curry house standards are also in evidence, and we particularly like the handi laze, which is spicy chicken with chillies and fragrant cardamon, giving some zing with added lemon. And as with most Indian places, there are a range of vegetarian options. There are also a huge range of rices, and we prefer the good old fashioned pilau. And what would ANY good curry house without some slightly tacky murals?

Honourable mention in for Indian food goes to proper old school curry joint Gandhis in Kennington Cross which just missed our list. As you can see by the celebrity strewn pictures in the window, if it’s good enough for Richard and Judy, Neil and Christine Hamilton, and some lady who’s a dead ringer for Hyacinth Bucket then it has to be good enough for us mere mortals and may return to the list one day.

#4 Top Ten Best Places to Eat in Greater Kennington #4 (+ 1 Sunday Roast)

Kuma

If you’ve ever seen the crowds at Japanese/Korean joint Kuma in Kennington Cross you’ll know that they hardly need our support, but they’ve earned our coveted and profoundly ssubjective 4 spot for the second year. They’ve earned this due to their spicy, diverse and innovative fare served at reasonable prices. 

We started with Kuma’s best known dish, Korean Fried Chicken. The options were – traditional, spicy, or sticky soy garlic and we chose the latter. The medium portion was huge and suitable for two. It had a great crispy crunch and slathered in a sticky soy garlic sauce. For the mains your scribe opted for the chicken bulgogi (say it like a pro…..boo-GOH-gee) which were very thin strips of chicken grilled on a BBQ coated with a hearty sauce called gochujang. Spring onion featured and it was consumed in lettuce wraps. It was billed as ‘hot’ and it certainly was, and so generous that your scribe couldn’t finish it.

Kim the intern had the Kimchi Bokkumbap as a main; a Korean fried rice dish with the national ingredient kimchi (spiced fermented cabbage) topped with barbecued beef strips. A bit like Chinese stir fry rice with a heavy dose of red chilli sauce. It was topped with a fried egg and came with miso soup, and again was a very generous portion. Best washed down with a Cass or Asahi Super Dry beer, but not for Kim as she’s aware that our gratitude ends with a Pepsi Max  

We love nothing more than sticking our noses where they don’t belong, and towards the end of the meal we went to the toilets and might have accidentally wandered into the kitchen. We can confirm that sous chef Mike (aka Mike-ro-Wave) was nowhere to be seen and everything is made fresh. 

#5 The Ten Best Places to Eat in Greater Kennington (+1 Sunday Roast)

Didi and Franc

We’re halfway there already, and the #5 spot is nailed nailed by posh deli and restaurant Didi and Franc. You’d be correct in thinking that Didi and Franc never seem to be open, but they seem to be focussing only dinners. The review below is from a gastronomic visit undertaken in November, 2024. But we returned to buy nibbles in 2025 and the same standards apply.

It’s been long overdue but we’ve finally paid visit to the little restaurant at Didi and Franc in Kennington Cross. For those not in the know, D&F is an upmarket deli/cheese/bread/wine shop that generally sells gorgeous foodie things that you have no practical use for but still want. The cheese section being particularly good. Didi and Franc are real people and usually on hand and possess a forensic knowledge of the food they sell and the items on the menu as they’re the ones who ordered and cook the stuff. The short and precisely primed dinner menu is Italian.

(Still serving Feb. 2026) Karen from finance loves a mackerel, so we shared a smoked mackerel mousse which was light in texture but punchy in flavour, served with some of the delicious sourdough bread sold in the deli. Karen chose to follow this with a vegetarian (possibly vegan) option of mushroom and chestnut tortellini with pesto rosso, cavolo nero and chestnuts. Chestnut feels wonderfully autumnal so it’s nice to see this feature. The generously filled homemade tortellini having a rich nutty taste that went beautifully with a red pepper flavoured pesto and a bit of green hit from the cavolo nero. Karen got so excited that while in the midst of chewing she yelled out, to a shocked room,  ‘this dish a triumph’! Or words to that effect. 

Your scribe consumed beef shin and red wine tortellini with tomato sauce. This was next level cheffy stuff with a very rich, wine based tomato sauce and seven tortellini stuffed with beef shin so delicate that it melted before hitting the back of the palate. The tortellini was perfectly al dente with a touch of parmesan. Pumpkin pie was a surprise dessert not originally on the menu but that had just been rustled up by Franc himself.

More experienced (read, OLD) readers might recall that the premises now held by D&F was formerly  an Oddbins and a place of sacred refuge after many a fraught team meeting here at Observer towers. So when it first opened we were disappointed at the pearl clutchingly high price of their wines. Well can we confirm that either Didi, Franc or both got the message as the prices are now a bit more reasonable (but still high). And with a certain gift giving holiday just around the corner, D&F could be the perfect destination for your foodie friends. And they also do ‘make your own’ hampers. 

The restaurant at D&F is open during the second half of the week and we strongly advise that you book as the first time we couldn’t get a seat and it royally pissed us off.

#6 The Ten Best Places to Eat in Greater Kennington (+ 1 Sunday roast)

Amici

And the number 6 slot has been consumed by the cheery and eccentric Amici in Kennington Cross. After a post Covid stint looking rather like a charity shop, we can cheerily report that the ambiance is now dominated by plants, low lighting, a drinks trolley and contemporary art by Iranian artists. Amici prides itself on being a mixture of Persian and Italian dishes,  which at first gave us a nightmarish vision of pomegranate pizza kebabs. However, co-owner Sethy informed us that the cuisines are kept apart, aside from the one ordered by our new intern Pippa.  

Pippa pipped for the smoked aubergine and rose harissa rigatoni. The pasta was perfectly al dente with an earthy, smoky aubergine puree sauce. We would describe this as fusion although Sethy informed us that Iranians claim to have invented pasta before the Italians. We’re not weighing in on this as we have enough on our plate already. Your scribe opted for an Amici classic  – the Koobideh, which consisted of two perfectly grilled skewers of seasoned (cumin) lamb, with abundant jasmine rice and a grilled tomato, which Sethy said to crush into the rice. And of course nothing in Persia is served without the national spice, Sumac. Of course if you don’t fancy Persian (but you should) they have a number of Italian dishes such as pizza.

We chose the house red wine which was totally drinkable as it should be at £29. As Sethy was pouring a glass Pippa observed that the wine smelled ‘amazing’ and had a beautiful crimson look. Nice try Pippa,  but at the end of the day you’re only an intern and the freebies end with the meal. We’re sure she enjoyed her Pepsi Max. Our meal with one glass of wine came to £72

Amici generally have a quite bewildering array of theme nights and at the moment (2026) are having a ‘Valentines Challenge’ which entails, if we’re reading this correctly, eating a dish without cutlery, with others, and sharing it on Instagram. Photo below. Eating pasta without a fork is perhaps best undertaken after a drink, and they are having a two for £15 drinks deal Mon-Fri from 5-7 which we totally approve of.  One event that keeps popping up is a cigar night. We’re not sure who these nights are aimed at, as we don’t see many people chomping down cigars up Kennington Lane. We suggest following their antics on Insta for a great laugh, but go for the great food.

#7 The Top Ten Best Places to Eat in Greater Kennington (+ 1 Sunday Roast)

Bonnington Cafe

Motoring on, and the number #7 Spot is awarded to the very independent Bonnington Cafe, and we recently made a much overdue visit to the Vauxhall institution in Bonnington Square. The Cafe is part of the larger Bonnington Centre, but more on that later. 

Bonnington Café was established over forty years ago as a not for profit endeavour and still serves its original purpose of serving affordable (£5 starters £12 mains £5 desserts) vegetarian and vegan fare prepared by a rotating cast of chefs. They also have a BYOB policy to make it even more affordable. At the moment the chefs are creating British comfort food, vegan Polish fare, and locally sourced favourite dishes (UPDATE FEB 2026 – still occurring). Our night was led by Syrian chef Hind Danoun, who passionately cooks her mother’s Syrian vegetarian dishes. She’s in the kitchen on Fridays and some other nights. 

The menus at BC are purposefully very small, and showcase what the chef is working on at the moment. Cliff from the HR team chose the grilled aubergine with tahini and paprika sauce topped with nuts for a starter and he called it ‘sublime’. The tahini was described as creamy and smooth, no clagginess: a light dish of splendidly umami flavours. The lentil kebab main didn’t feel remotely like a kebab to Cliff, so an odd name: lentil steak would have been closer. This was lightly spiced, and benefitted from its accompaniment of yoghurt sauce and a great sumac sauce that made the dish.

Your scribe had the fattoush salad with pomegranate molasses, which was bright and sharp: a little too sour for some tongues but a nice contrast of leaf and crunch. Meanwhile, majouka felt rather like a Syrian take on a vegetarian biryani – which was a result that your scribe could get on board with: simple, tasty, hearty.

Overall, both in terms of pocketbook and what we consumed we left feeling healthy. Well, maybe that £7 bottle of Tesco Malbec we knocked back in half an hour wasn’t so healthy, but don’t judge us. If you don’t fancy a meal at the BC then pop over to Bonnington Square itself for a bit of a wonder, as it’s a verdant urban subtropical oases (maybe not in February) with a storied past that we wrote about previously.

The Bonnington Centre has an eclectic sounding programme of activities on the first floor including one called ‘Death Café’, which rather reminded us of the time when Phil brought homemade brownies into the office. They also have yoga and film nights. On our night there were a motley and hungry group of amateur musicians coming downstairs for a bite, while as we left we were serenaded by the lovely tones of other musicians upstairs.