There are plenty of things that you can experience in Elephant and Castle. For instance, being hit by a car. Or being mowed down by a Just Eat delivery person cycling on the pavement. But one doesn’t often experience high quality Chinese food there. It’s for this reason that we were devastated when our favourite Cantonese ‘Dragon Castle’ closed in March 2020, but they are now back with a vengeance.
They taste better than they look
With the cheap chandeliers, plastic plants, lazy Susan’s and even a water feature, at Dragon Castle you delightfully experience the feel of being in a mega restaurant in Beijing without the torture of six lateral flow tests and a 10 hour flight. But alas, you are at the top of Walworth Road. We commenced our feast with the dim sum sampler. Dim sum is a speciality of DC, and they did not disappoint. Crammed with prawns and veg, they were congealed in a very pleasing way and were almost certainly made fresh on the day.
My dining partner enjoyed a main of braised pork belly and broccoli flavoured with soy and spices which the dining partner described as ‘delicious and also generously sized’. A slight sweetness to balance the saltiness and meltingly soft pork was evident. It was a delicious soft fat, as you want, but with a high ratio of pork meat and plenty of it.
Your scribe ordered the sizzling beef and black bean with green pepper, onion, and chilli. Served with generous soy sauce, the beef was extremely lean and tender. It was just on the right side of spicy with the black bean sauce creating a big, palate clinging flavour. The generous sticky rice portions were served in metal lined baskets looking not dissimilar to mop buckets.
Beef
Pork
Dragon Castle is not as affordable as it used to be but still good value for the quality of the food. We ordered draft beer as the wines started at £25. Importantly. there were not a retinue of delivery people scurrying in and out (but DC is on Deliveroo). A fun night out, and the risk of a vehicular injury could perhaps even add to the adventure.
Before we commence with our run down of how we can treat people we love, lets think about all the Greater Kenningtonians out there who are struggling with the basics. If you would like to help them but aren’t really sure how, the Vauxhall Foodbank is a good place to start. You can either donate money, volunteer, or donate food directly at Tesco Kennington Lane or Sainsburys Nine Elms.
If you’re anything like us, you’d rather have a pencil crammed into your ear canal than face the throngs of Oxford/Regent Streets right now. And if you like to hold objects before you buy them you can do this in our very own manor, and we hope you find our little guide useful.
FOOD
Italo Vauxhall and Mimi’s Deli both have a range of Italian foodie gift ideas including wines, beers, spices, panettone (or as we call it ‘stale cake’), oils, cheeses and even posh sauces. Mimi’s has also turned the former seating area into a kind of pop up Christmas shop in the back, not visible from the road.
Mercato Metropolitano has all of the Italian fare outlined above and also feature some Italian themed hampers and they’re also selling wreaths. They have wonderful meats and cheeses but if they sit under your tree for 10 days the smell might rather dampen your Christmas vibe. Don’t forget they have a new shop at 1 Walworth Road.
Ever thought about buying an edible Christmas gift our own beloved Oval Farmer’s Market? They stock many things that won’t perish under the tree such as chocolates and wine. You have one more Saturday before Christmas!
The Beefeater Gin Distillery has a lovely but totally deserted gift shop offering unusual, limited run gins and gin accessories. You can also buy a gift voucher to tour the distillery (we can confirm it’s great fun). Perfect for your loved one who likes a nice holiday tipple or who just has a drinking problem.
NON FOOD
Now, when you think Christmas shopping the first thing you say to yourself probably isn’t ‘ooh, lets go to the place behind Elephant Station where they keep the bins’. But, if you venture there you will discover a clutch of independent shops in Castle Square that used to exist in the shopping centre. Great for you younger folk looking for baseball caps, hoodies and clothes.
If you are in Elephant pop over to the new SoLo Craft Fair which is a collective of artists and creatives who now run a bricks and mortar shop. 60 small businesses have their work shown on rotation and during our journey we saw affordable jewellery, handbags, baskets, cards, scarves, bath salts, prints and T-shirts.
From the chains, cages and chew toys in the window, for many years we thought Hound Hut in Clapham Road was actually a bondage/S&M shop. However, it is your one stop shop for everything canine, even refrigerated dog food.
Next to the (not S&M) Hound Hut sits new kid on the block “Pretty Shiny Shop’ which swaggeringly exudes itself to be Greater Kennington’s Christmas Shop (steady) and they stock a range or cards, houseware items, Christmas tree goodies, and small pieces of jewellery.
Mary over at Windmill Flowers stocks not just flowers but also collectables and houseware accessories.
In addition to books, Vanilla Black also has some nice gift ideas such as cards and masks and also a few food items. We think VB secretly hates us but we’ve moved on with our lives and are plugging them anyway. And since you are over there, I Due Amici has some fine looking panettone hanging in their windows (no that isn’t a rude euphemism). And if at this very second you are thinking ‘what happened to Didi and Franc’. Well, we have no idea but try asking in VB.
As a second joyless year comes to a close, have you ever thought about the gift of comedy? Our local gold star comedy club Always be Comedy are doing E vouchers for their virtual and socially distanced and live events (the virtual being very surreal) at The Tommyfield. Recently we’ve seen Harry Hill, Al Murray, Sara Pascoe and more.
Most importantly, this has been yet another shitty year for almost all of us. So you have the Kennington Runoff seal of approval to treat yourself during the 2021 festive season!
Earlier in the week we wrote about a collective of independent shops called Elephant Stores in the vast juggernaut that has become Elephant Park. At the core of the collective is a delightful cafe called ‘Little Louie’. Little Louie itself is a pint size, pop up version of the highly acclaimed restaurant Louie Louie curiously located in Walworth Road between a thrift shop and an Iceland.
Little Louis offers all of the cafe staples such as croissants (including vegan), buns, muffins and breakfast items such as bacon on sourdough, salmon, and veggie items, with a broad selection of coffees and teas. We went at lunchtime and opted for their lunchtime staple, toasties. Your scribe had a delicious and well grilled pastrami and emmental with lashings of mustard and horseradish. My colleague opted for the tuna melt with parsley mayo and pepped up with some pickled peppers. They were hearty and filling affairs served in sourdough. We’ve had their basque cheesecake before and it is to die for, even if it means running 30 laps around Kennington Park to work it off.
Pastrami
Tuna, although we are aware that the sandwiches look identical
While waiting for our toasties we perused the wine on sale and also the beers from the very local Orbit Brewery. We were very excited to learn that at the end of November Little Louis will be open in the evening serving cocktails, wines and beers on tap with a turntable. And if you want to recreate the Little Louie aura in your home you can even buy the tables and chairs in the cafe as they are on sale through an antiques outfit on site. I suppose then Little Louie will force their customers to eat their toasties on the floor but that has a certain earthy charm to it. Elephant Stores also has wifi if you want to create the impression that you are working.
We’re not entirely proud of being seduced by the new shops in the dystopian juggernaut that is ‘Elephant Park’, but in our defense some very interesting and totally independent shops and restaurants have been opening up there such as pizza joint ‘400 Rabbits’ and video game pub ‘4 Quarters’. The latest kid on the block is ‘Elephant Stores’ which houses a craft/gift shop, a bike repair shop, an antiques market and (keep up) an outlet of Walworth dining staple ‘Louie Louie’. So if you woke up this morning thinking ‘wow I really need to get my hand brake fixed while shopping for a handmade lampshade and a refurbished chair while also eating a vegan mushroom toastie’ then you are in LUCK!
The SoLo Craft Fair is a South London collective of artists and creatives who pitch together through their website, workshops, popups, and now promote their makes through the bricks and mortar shop at Elephant Stores. The 60 small businesses have their work shown on rotation and during our journey we saw affordable jewellery, handbags, baskets, cards, scarves, bath salts, prints and T-shirts. The staff on hand are usually creators themselves and more than happy to give you advice. If you are the crafty type yourself you can even apply to sell your wares via SoLo by enquring here.
Vintage Matters is a small company based in Camberwell (so, close enough) who specialise in vintage homeware, typography, architectural salvage and, by looking around the place, a slight obsession with tables and chairs. So much so that you can walk away with the very chair you sat upon to eat that vegan toastie. Most of the accessories around the Elephant store, from giant letters and numbers to mirrors and seltzer bottles, are available to take away on the day or just to admire. So think of it as a kind of ‘try before you buy’ exercise.
While not exactly independent, Fix Your Cycle is a small chain who both repair problems with your bike and also offer regular bike servicing at different tiers. You can do tasks as simple as pumping up your tyres and getting friendly advice to solving major, oily breakdowns. They even offer an ebike hire scheme. Of particular interest to us is their social enterprise ‘Recycle Your Cycle’ scheme. Working with HM Prison Service, they refurbish abandoned bikes for charity and this work is undertaken by prisoners at seven prisons, giving them valuable skills once they are released, and the bikes are then sold for charity. This aspect gave us so many thumbs up we nearly poked our eyes out.
We will review Louie Louie’s offshoot ‘Little Louie’ in a separate post in a few days you lucky devils.
The extremely hip restaurant ‘Paladar’ has been on our radar since it opened in 2018 but our attempts to review the place have been consistently rebuffed by Runoff senior management. They’ve alternately stated that it’s too expensive, that it’s not technically in Greater Kennington, and then tried to maliciously insinuate that we weren’t ‘hip enough’. When they relented last week we grabbed our chance.
Paladar is a Latin American fusion restaurant in St. George’s Circus near Elephant & Castle/Lambeth North. The restaurant doubles as an art space, and on our visit featured work by Ecuadorean artist Ulises Valarezo. The crowd is more West End chic than we would expect in these parts, and in fact we were sat next to ‘Leave a Light On’ pop star Tom Walker and loads of people laughing while flicking their hair.
Pork belly
Lettuce hearts
The menu is, you guessed it, sharing plates and five items served two people just fine. We were served by a precise, chirpy and professionally drilled service staff who knew quite a bit about what they were serving and actually spoke Spanish to one another. Highlights were texture rich tuna tartare tostadas accompanied by a fragrant salsa which reminded us ever so slightly of a delicious, yet expensive, hand soap. The pork belly tacos had an interesting Chinese crispy duck sticky quality and were wrapped in lettuce leaves as opposed to a tortilla. On the veggie front, we enjoyed compelling, deep fried tapioca croquettes which were savory but just verging on being sweet. We also indulged on chargrilled lettuce hearts with a nut based topping.
Croquettes and Tuna
It is rather amazing that restaurants such as Paladar survived the Covid maelstrom, which partially explains why they send you about a dozen confirmation emails after booking. With a bottle of wine the total bill came to £84 which is by no means cheap but it will teach the management team a thing or two before they accuse us of being less than cool. Money well spent even if you don’t get the chance to sit next to a minor pop star in a bobble hat.
Paladar also sell South American wines in their adjacent wine shop. We enjoyed a divine £26 Montes Colchagua Valley Merlot which was less than a tenner more than was going in the shop.
Long before the behemoths of Vauxhall and the impending towering bewilderments of Elephant, there existed Draper House in Newington Butts, where Kennington meets Elephant and Castle. Nestling shyly next to the ‘who switched the fans off’ Strata, the Draper Estate was built in the Brutalist style in 1965, and when Draper House was finished it was the tallest residential block in London. If you look up at the block today this seems almost unbelievable.
In order to meet the varying needs of a devastated community post WW2, radical architects Kenneth Campbell and Hubert Bennett were commissioned to create a building consisting of 141 flats and maisonettes. In the manner of Le Corbusier, the idea was that ‘nothing is too good for the ordinary man and woman’ and the building had wide corridors and the unique addition of fire escapes. Campbell and Bennett transcended traditional building methods by installing a cladding of storey high slabs of white Italian marble. Another unbelievable reality when we look at the cladding of public housing today.
We were made aware of the interesting existence of Draper House after reading that one of its original residents just moved out after 56 years. Falling into a typical Runoff rabbit hole, we read the interesting stories of current residents such as Ian, who has lived in the building for 36 years and raised his family there. He notes that many residents have lived there for decades and over the years has progressively reflected the multi cultural dynamic that gives Elephant it’s energy.
Being tall and notable does have a few downsides, and for many years Draper House had a darker side as it was known as the suicide capital of London. Those days are long gone and the multicultural essence persists at ground level with such treats as a Latin American mini mall, a Brazilian hair salon, a Chinese tea house, and two of our favourites eateries – Italian ‘Theos’, and the wonderfully named ‘After Taste’.
Pizza helped us in many ways during lockdown. For some it was like a familiar blanket in troubled times. For us it reconfirmed that we can no longer pull off skinny jeans. We at Runoff Towers find that by a mile the best pizza in Greater Kennington is Theos up in Elephant. Our opinion has been seconded by no less than Vogue Magazine (which might not be an accolade as I doubt their readers actually eat pizza). And now they feature award winning Tiramisu.
Gorgonzola
Anchovy
On the pizza front my colleague had the aubergine and Gorgonzola. An adventurous choice, the aubergine was very soft and this was offset by the sharp hit of pecorino followed by the blue hit of Gorgonzola. Your scribe had a ‘my pressure needs to be checked’ salt kick of an anchovy, capers, olive and mozzarella pizza. All the salty elements were balanced well, and the best element of these pizzas is that they are served on a sourdough bread that is blistered on just the good side of being burned.
Indeed, Theo’s has just won an award for best Tiramisu in London, and in our opinion it is well deserved. It ticked all the boxes of ‘Italian almost trifle’ with a perfect balance of strong coffee, dark chocolate, creamy mascarpone and served between layers of soft cream.
Upon hearing about this accolade some female members of the Runoff team, and a surprisingly large number of men, implored us to include a picture of the man behind the triamisu. When we observed that this serves no purpose other to objectify this young man they said ‘yeah, and what’s your point’? So in order to avoid industrial action please find his photo below.
We confess to a degree of shame at our embrace of the soulless juggernaut that has become Elephant Park. That shame is mitigated, however, by the fact that it is now the home of some of the independent shops that were turfed out of the shopping centre (sadly the electric massage chairs didn’t make it over). And also home to some very cool micro chains, and one of them is a 80/90’s video game themed bar called ‘Four Quarters’.
Four Quarters bills itself as a ‘no fills bar’ but they really don’t do themselves justice as they have a good selection of lagers, IPAs, wines and spirits. We booked a table (a Space Invaders table video game, no less) but this is not mandatory. How it works is that you buy real US quarters at the bar and each games costs 25 cents (about 20p).
For those of you who get thrilled by your 80’s games, on offer they have Pac Man (Mr and Ms), Donkey Kong, Galaxian, Asteroids, Frogger and a nice range of pinball machines, among others. For those of you who prefer your 90’s games they have early Guitar Hero, Alien v. Predator, The Simpsons, NBA Jam, and Pole Position II. For those of you into gaming after that period then you probably have no idea what we’re talking about, but we’re impressed that you’ve read this far.
If you register on the Four Quarters website you can compete for a high score with other users which is a fun way to lure you back. They also have console booths with games such as Nintendo and X Box. They do serve food, but we didn’t see anyone eating there in the midst of the fun. If you’re peckish we recommend 400 Rabbits, which we reviewed a few weeks ago and is next door.
We’ve done a lot of soul searching and have decided to embrace our inner hipster and allow the top knotted dinizens of the Elephant Park development into the Kennington Runoff catchment area. One reason is the good places to eat which can be found there. A recent discovery is the delightful ‘400 Rabbits’, a south London based pizza, craft beer and gelato micro chain that has recently emerged next to the spiffy Elephant Park park itself. Like it’s neighbour, Theo’s Pizzeria, it is all about the sourdough at 400 Rabbits and theirs is a slow fermented sourdough affair that is thinner and crispier than Theo’s but without the burnt blistering which we happen to love.
The first thing you should know about 400 Rabbits is that it’s seriously cool. We’re not talking mismatched cutlery here, more like vintage toilets. We went on a weeknight and it was very quiet, and we attribute this to lingering hesitancy of eating out and also the inexorable rise in home deliveries. My work associate had a £4 negroni cocktail and ‘The Chorizo’ pizza. The nice base was offset by a good tomato sauce and decent mozzerella and chili and basil, with the chorizo supplied by Brindisa.
Chorizo
Anchovy. Photograpphing food is hard.
Your scribe had a craft beer and ‘The Anchovy’ which featured a parsimonious amount of the little fishies and the salt kick was supplemented by a load of capers. Also featuring was red onion and a very dominant presence of earthy rosemary, which is not often encountered in a pizza. To top it all off our chirpy server then said ‘would you like some dips with your pizza’. We have no idea what this means but, feigning a kind of hipster confidence, we replied ‘ta, we’re good thanks’.
400 Rabbits also prides itself on the gelatos and they did look splendid but after the pizzas, gelato wasn’t on the top of our list. The interior is fresh and bright with green highlights, a stone fired oven and open kitchen.
This coming Saturday (26th) the much loved and much refurbished Elephant and Castle elephant will be making a return to the area and perched in its new home in Castle Square, which is in Elephant Street behind the now mostly past tense shopping centre. We are dearly hoping that the statue will be dragged trojan horse style through the streets by the executives of Lendlease, but our dreams rarely come true.
We give you this information as the return will be accompanied by a kind of street party, and we are all invited. According to the press release, the Elephant and Castle Town Centre Team (whoever the hell they are) will be laying on a whole day of family fun that includes world music and food, cocktails (!), history, dancers and talks. It runs from 11:00 to 17:00.
A selection of local traders will make up the backbone of the event and will include Coma Y Beba and Caribbean dishes from Kaieteur Kitchen. As this is Elephant, also expect lots of Venezuelan and Colombian fare, in addition to African dishes. Also on hand is Vauxhall staple and ‘wow I never knew a pint could cost 12 quid’ taproom Mother Kellys, who will be opening a new outlet in Elephant Square. We expect free samples.
And if you are thinking that this celebration is just a cynical way for the property developers to win over local residents we could not POSSIBLY comment. What we can comment on is the chance to support local traders, eat some interesting global food and catch some free music and stimulate that long dormant grey matter. For a video of the elephant losing it’s perch, see below.
