Strange things are happening in and around Oval Station and we here at the Observer like what were seeing. Oval tube if you’re reading this (and if not you really should be) we are LOVING the distressed, post-apocalyptic look you’re rocking at the moment and we hope you keep it. However, given the aesthetic bypass also known as Transport for London, we know this is unlikely.

Also new to the area is a Turkish/UK café ‘Roots’ located next to the tube and its here we find ourselves having lunch with the ever ebullient Karen from Finance. She opted for a spinach and feta pie as she thought it looked identical to what she had enjoyed on several occasions in Athens. It’s a super-crisp filo-type pastry encasing a thick layer of spinach, feta, mint with a hint of nutmeg. Karen was sold on the authenticity.  When we pointed out that we were, in fact, in a Turkish café Karen shrugged her shoulders and said ‘yeah whatever….same thing’.

Your scribe ordered the spinach and cheese Gozlene. Gozlene is a kind of stuffed Turkish turnover a bit like Pide but folded over like a calzone. Spinach and  feta is the most common stuffing but it can also include minced meats. Both of ours were toasted, giving them that oozy kick, with the spinach deluding into a vision of it actually being healthy. Well recommended. There’s no use in buying an overpriced drink as they’ll happily give you tap water.

Roots is a family owned café and we have a feeling it was brother and sister out front and dad in the kitchen. In addition to sandwiches and coffee, their big item is the large amount of smoothies on offer. Perfect for your stressful morning commute until someone elbows you in the eyeball. The team also inform us that they will soon have out a breakfast menu, featuring both Turkish and British Fry Up options. So in the immortal words of Arnie —- ‘we’ll be back’.

You probably think that all we do here at the Observer is eat out and drink. While this is largely true, we’re also a cultured office and we like to imbibe a play now and again. So we find ourselves at the White Bear Theatre to see the play ‘Savage’. If you’re not aware of the Bear, it’s a space upstairs at the White Bear pub that’s been focussed on new and cutting edge writing since it was founded in the 80’s.

Our play starts in Copenhagen, 1940, and homosexuality is legal until Nazi tanks roll into town. Nikolai and Zack are enjoying a clandestine relationship that they subtly accept is doomed, and doom is sealed when they are arrested and encounter Dr. Carl Vaernet, who claims to have discovered a cure for homosexuality involving the injection of monkey testosterone. This absurd reality is underlined by a visiting SS officer who takes an  overcurious interest in this innovation as he sips his champagne cocktails to endless, gun toting  abandon. We are strategically avoiding more detail here as we don’t undertake plot spoilers, as that would make us no better than Time Out. But our tale takes us from Copenhagen to Prague to Connecticut via the home of an altruistic nurse.

On this visit your scribe was accompanied by our new Diversity czar Kevin (whose claims of diversity seem to extend to having had a Spanish boyfriend for a few months). He observed the real chemistry between the two leads and noted their passion for one another while anticipating the powers that will doom their love. As a contrast there’s a much more troubled relationship here, but that’s for you to discover, dear reader. This is also a lesson in the privilege that most of us enjoy while others are left to languish in their vulnerability. Brits being repatriated to the UK while locals living in the Middle East can’t escape shouldn’t be ignored here. Another texture for you to ponder in this topical play.

Savages is a vast undertaking and perhaps the tiny venue does it no justice, but is nevertheless worth seeing. Savages is on now and runs until 15 March at the White Bear and tickets can be grabbed here.  While the theatre is situated within the White Bear pub, it is independently owned and not part of the Youngs mega chain. There’s some twee little fake Kennington memorabilia around the pub to distract you and apparently the food is nice, or so say our mega chain loving friends.  

Please note that in this play there is a trigger warning for people offended by nudity. Equally, there is a trigger warning for people who prefer a bit of nudity.

Have you ever stopped and noticed a curious looking steel box in the middle of Elephant and Castle? It’s been there for years, now standing sentinel beside the looming shopping complex as it nears it’s Westfieldian completion. It’s a memorial to Michael Faraday (1791-1867) who was born and raised in nearby Newington Butts. A Chemist and Physicist, Faraday was mostly self educated as his parents had little money. He contributed vastly to electromagnetism and invented the electric motor. In fact, he’s responsible for the little motor inside the device on which you’re reading this. He’s also the dude who used to be on the £20 note (kids, bank notes are something old people used to use to pay for things).

Back to the box. Its 1961 and London Underground needed to construct an electricity substation above ground. The original concept was to encase the substation in glass to allow people a view of what Faraday pioneered. However, out of a fear of vandalism it was designed out of a dimpled stainless steel, giving it an appearance of having been hit repeatedly by a car. Right now you might be thinking ‘vandalism in the Elephant, never!’ but alas, even with its dimpled skin it’s faced indignity in spite of being Grade II listed.

As well as being London’s strangest yet most practical memorial, it comes with the thrilling concept of potential death! (although other buildings in Elephant have proved more lethal). Apparently even if Mr. Faraday in heaven was able to squirrel his way into the box his electromagnetic genius would prove useless and his fate would be sealed in the box, making it the world’s first electromagnetic mausoleum.

The Dragon Flame @ Orbit Brewery

The never ending top ten list has now reached a glistening climax and multi award winner 24 The Oval has been overthrown by….wait for it…a Brewery! Yes, a tiny pop up in our very own Orbit Brewery in Walworth has stolen the crown. And trust us, we tried on a lot of crowns to anoint this little gem. And most had thorns.

The Dragon Flame is the latest food resident at Orbit and has an emphasis on smoked meats that carries through to the special Sunday Roasts menu that contains a number of smoked options alongside the traditional Sunday Roast trimmings. Our guest chose oak-smoked beef brisket (£24.95) on the basis that brisket is the most classic of smoked meats and a good measure  of meat-smoking expertise. Also on the basis that it cost the most and they knew they were getting a freebie. But the freebie was a winner: generous strips of deeply, but not overpoweringly, smoked strips of brisket arrived draped over the classic vegetables. The brisket itself was soft and tender from a long session in the smoker.

Your scribe had the oak smoked half chicken roast (£22.50). Properly smoked chicken has a deep savoury, tender and intense flavour and this ticked all those boxes, in addition to being juicy and moist. The  carrots and parsnips still had some bite and roast potatoes were flavourful. We were pleased to see braised red cabbage, its sweetness complementing the smoky meat well. Sealing the deal as a high quality plate were an enormous and perfect home-made Yorkshire pudding and generous red wine “jus” (that’s posh for gravy). 

The Dragon Flame is a very hot new entrant to the Kennington Sunday roast scene and we hope it makes other pubs up their two overcooked veg stodge game.  Of course, it’s not cheap: even the vegan option is £18.50. However, this strikes an excellent balance between taking a bit of a new direction (smoked meats) yet keeping all the crowd-pleasing Sunday Roast elements you expect. That you can enjoy this alongside one of Orbit’s excellent range of beers surely seals the deal. We’ve given a swerve around their tzatziki flavoured beer until they run out of all the others, but you might be more adventurous.

Amici

And the number 6 slot has been consumed by the cheery and eccentric Amici in Kennington Cross. After a post Covid stint looking rather like a charity shop, we can cheerily report that the ambiance is now dominated by plants, low lighting, a drinks trolley and contemporary art by Iranian artists. Amici prides itself on being a mixture of Persian and Italian dishes,  which at first gave us a nightmarish vision of pomegranate pizza kebabs. However, co-owner Sethy informed us that the cuisines are kept apart, aside from the one ordered by our new intern Pippa.  

Pippa pipped for the smoked aubergine and rose harissa rigatoni. The pasta was perfectly al dente with an earthy, smoky aubergine puree sauce. We would describe this as fusion although Sethy informed us that Iranians claim to have invented pasta before the Italians. We’re not weighing in on this as we have enough on our plate already. Your scribe opted for an Amici classic  – the Koobideh, which consisted of two perfectly grilled skewers of seasoned (cumin) lamb, with abundant jasmine rice and a grilled tomato, which Sethy said to crush into the rice. And of course nothing in Persia is served without the national spice, Sumac. Of course if you don’t fancy Persian (but you should) they have a number of Italian dishes such as pizza.

We chose the house red wine which was totally drinkable as it should be at £29. As Sethy was pouring a glass Pippa observed that the wine smelled ‘amazing’ and had a beautiful crimson look. Nice try Pippa,  but at the end of the day you’re only an intern and the freebies end with the meal. We’re sure she enjoyed her Pepsi Max. Our meal with one glass of wine came to £72

Amici generally have a quite bewildering array of theme nights and at the moment (2026) are having a ‘Valentines Challenge’ which entails, if we’re reading this correctly, eating a dish without cutlery, with others, and sharing it on Instagram. Photo below. Eating pasta without a fork is perhaps best undertaken after a drink, and they are having a two for £15 drinks deal Mon-Fri from 5-7 which we totally approve of.  One event that keeps popping up is a cigar night. We’re not sure who these nights are aimed at, as we don’t see many people chomping down cigars up Kennington Lane. We suggest following their antics on Insta for a great laugh, but go for the great food.

As we put the final touches on our profoundly scientific yet utterly subjective rundown of the top 10 list of best places to eat in Greater Kennington (plus 1 Sunday Roast), we wanted to give an honourable mention to the cafes and coffee shops which weren’t eligible for the noble accolade but we were nevertheless loving in 2025.

Italo Vauxhall – Cozy Italian café and shop nestled in the heart of Bonnington Sq.

Eat the Sunshine, Down the Sun – Brand spanking new Filipino art café in Kennington Cross.

Park College Café – Hidden gem next to Kennington Park run by young people with additional needs. Cute upcycled gifts. Walworth

Electric Elephant Café – Quirky tea and cake spot that looks more like a jumble shop. The owner makes everything by hand. Walworth

Walcot Stores – Tiny and adorable café off Walworth Sq. selling baked goods and bread. And of course coffee.

Urban Botanica – Buzzy Kennington Cross staple selling a range of coffees and teas and, errr….houseplants.

Change, Please – This IS a chain but we love them as they employ people with experiences of being homeless. Elephant Park

Vauxhall City Farm – Little known but buzzy café and coffee spot. Where else can you have a coffee while watching llamas eat?

Ahead of our highly scientific yet wholly subjective countdown of the Top Ten Best Places to eat in Greater Kennington we recently revisited Mc & Sons in Vauxhall with our self appointed ‘one man party’ Phil from accounts. Mc & Sons if you’re reading this (and if not you’re missing out) we love your dark woods, quiet atmosphere, and maximalist design aesthetic as it brings to mind a trad pub in Dublin and is possibly the most visibly appealing joint in our manor. Well done.

Phil was invited on this excursion primarily because a pub was involved, but also because he’s been banging on about his recent trip to Thailand on an almost daily basis. And Thai street food is indeed the cuisine of choice at Mc & Sons and your scribe ordered the stir fry duck. Served in a lovely pewter bowl, it came with fresh basil and chilli blended with a fried egg mixed with very sticky rice. Flavour profiles included hoisin and plum sauce, orange, honey, and a fare shake of black bean. It was plentiful, not too spicy, and a good sweet/sour Thai balance.

Phil ordered the drunken noodles and upon ordering flashed us a cheeky smile and said ‘what do you thinks in it. Vodka? Gin?’ When we pointed out that the name pertains to curing hangovers and there’s no actual alcohol in it,  Phil appeared at once crestfallen and perplexed. Nevertheless, he enjoyed his noodles with a refreshing pale ale(s) that took the edge off the heat. Overall, Phil thought Mc & Sons offered a good approximation of the drunken noodles in Thailand: thick rice noodles with chicken, prawns and vegetable stir fried in a sauce with all the classic spicy-salty-sweet elements. You have to be a spice-lover to enjoy this dish. 

Mc & Sons is a nice, cosy spot to spend time even if you’re not eating. We noticed a high proportion of the clientele were drinking Guinness, which is fitting as the surroundings feel like a proper, cosy family pub which doesn’t scream “check us out we’re IRISH!” like an O’Neill’s chain pub; this is done with a bit more warmth. Just don’t expect to get tipsy from the noodles.

In our furious pursuit of gastronomic excellence ahead of our Top 10 Best Places to Eat in February, we’ve decided to visit a fast food joint in Elephant and Castle. Filishack is a Filipino street food outfit in Sayer St. The tale begins with two brothers and a food truck situated outside Peckham library in 2014. After seven years of serving Fili burritos to passing pedestrians they opened their first bricks and mortar in 2021 followed our branch in 2024. 2025 has even seen them opening at White City, which we hear is a shopping mall. Or something.

Joining us was our in house Ombudsman Diane, who selected a burrito on the basis that she enjoys Mexican food and wanted to see if the Filipino take on a burrito was any different. Diane proclaimed regally, after her signature hair flick, “while this conforms approximately to the size and shape of a Chipotle style mega-burrito (burritos are not a particularly Mexican thing but Diane didn’t need to know this), this Filipino burrito has a distinctly different flavour profile”. Diane put this down to her choice of chicken adobo filling. Generous chicken thigh pieces were smothered in a prolific spicy sauce with a slight vinegar and soy kick. If that sounds odd, it’s actually delicious. Some salad and garlic rice filled out the burrito but it was the abundant chicken adobo that dominated.

Your scribe opted for the grilled chicken inasal ricebox. Inasal is a Filipino chicken that’s been marinated  for hours giving it a distinct orange hue and a citrussy, almost lemongrass hit. You can choose from a range of salad additions including onion, cucumber, and lettuce. And of course the sauce on top is king, and a yougurt/garlic was chosen. Everything mixed together swimmingly and was almost too much to consume.  At £7.95 for a medium box or burrito, this is very reasonable. Going for the large is unnecessary  unless you haven’t eaten in a couple of days or have a tapeworm. And if you want to research ‘inasal’ by Googling, try to be VERY careful how you spell ‘inasal’ as the results might be more than you bargained for.

Looking into our cracked Observer crystal ball, we have a feeling that once the shopping centre opens the rents in Sayer Street with skyrocket, pricing out small businesses such as Filishack. But of course, if having two outlets of ‘Joe and the Juice’ in the same street is your vision of paradise then you might just be in luck.

It’s the weekend after Christmas and all through the house, not a creature was stirring as they’ve had too many Ferrero Roche, Lambrini, and M&S mini chorizo bites. Well were going to get that metabolism going again by taking a stroll down the fascinating Renfew Road on the Kennington/Elephant border. Care to join us?

On the eastern side of Renfrew Road there remains a cluster of buildings which reflect a variety of life in our patch in the late 1800’s. The first offering off Kennington Lane is the Grade II listed old fire station. Built in 1868, the station served an area which was by that time bursting with industries that needed fires, such as kilns. In an era before IPhone 17’s and Snapchat, a turret was the quickest way to detect a local flame and it still exists. Although expanded in 1897, by 1920 there must have been a few too many fires in Greater Kennington as it was abandoned and used by the Guardians for the Poor in St. Mary’s Parish. Presumably to assist those who had been turfed out of the recently closed Workhouse next door (we’ll get to that).

Next we move merrily along to Lambeth Magistrates’ Court, which from 1978 has been home to Jamyang London Buddhist Centre. Built in 1869, it’s also Grade II listed, designed in the Gothic Revival style, and is the earliest surviving example of a Criminal Magistrates Court in London. In the 1960’s it was converted to a maximum security court for special remands, including IRA terrorists, the Kray twins, and members of the gang who seized the Iranian Embassy. If you look closely you can still see bars on some of the windows (not used for unruly Buddhists). Some might recall that in 2021 part of the courthouse housed a lovely café owned by the folks who run Little Louie in Elephant Park. We reviewed glowingly it in 2021 and it then promptly closed. We like to call this the ‘Observer effect’.

Moving on, behind the Courthouse we see the remains of the once mighty Lambeth Workhouse. It moved to Renfew Road in 1871 and was once the home of Charlie Chaplin and his mum. The place was a refuge, especially for women, and in spite of its reputation provided healthcare and job training. However, many tasks were degrading and intended to get people out of the Workhouse as quickly as possible. The former Governor’s house remains and is now home to the delightful Cinema Museum.  The water tower which remains was built because such institutions needed water storage in the event of fire. Its unrecorded how the poor firemen next door felt about this. The tower undertook a bonkers renovation in 2012, and was featured on Grand Designs. In the video the new owner speaks lovingly about jumping off the building if it doesn’t work. We would too if we had to walk up 100 feet to get to our living room. For a deeper dive into the Workhouse we wrote about it in 2019.