Paladar

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The extremely hip restaurant ‘Paladar’ has been on our radar since it opened in 2018 but our attempts to review the place have been consistently rebuffed by Runoff senior management.  They’ve alternately stated that it’s too expensive, that it’s not technically in Greater Kennington, and then tried to maliciously insinuate that we weren’t ‘hip enough’. When they relented last week we grabbed our chance. 

Paladar is a Latin American fusion restaurant in St. George’s Circus near Elephant & Castle/Lambeth North. The restaurant doubles as an art space, and on our visit featured work by Ecuadorean artist Ulises Valarezo. The crowd is more West End chic than we would expect in these parts, and in fact we were sat next to ‘Leave a Light On’ pop star Tom Walker and loads of people laughing while flicking their hair. 

  • Pork belly
  • Lettuce hearts

The menu is, you guessed it, sharing plates and five items served two people just fine. We were served by a precise, chirpy and professionally drilled service staff who knew quite a bit about what they were serving and actually spoke Spanish to one another.  Highlights were  texture rich tuna tartare tostadas accompanied by a fragrant salsa which  reminded us ever so slightly of a delicious, yet expensive, hand soap. The pork belly tacos had an interesting Chinese crispy duck sticky quality and were wrapped in lettuce leaves as opposed to a tortilla. On the veggie front, we enjoyed compelling, deep fried tapioca croquettes which were savory but just verging on being sweet. We also indulged on chargrilled lettuce hearts with a nut based topping.

Croquettes and Tuna

It is rather amazing that restaurants such as Paladar survived the Covid maelstrom, which partially explains why they send you about a dozen confirmation emails after booking. With a bottle of wine the total bill came to £84 which is by no means cheap but it will teach the management team a thing or two before they accuse us of being less than cool. Money well spent even if you don’t get the chance to sit next to a minor pop star in a bobble hat. 

Paladar also sell South American wines in their adjacent wine shop.  We enjoyed a divine £26 Montes Colchagua Valley Merlot which was less than a tenner more than was going in the shop. 

City & Guilds MA Show

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The pinnacle of the Greater Kennington arts calendar is upon us again in the guise of the MA Show over at City and Guilds in Kennington Park Road. Now if you’re thinking ‘hang on, didn’t I just go to that’ then you’re thinking about the BA Show in August, so keep up. The MA show is a more mature and subdued affair, usually, so don’t expect any swing sets wrapped fur which talk to you. But nevertheless expect a few surprises.  

The MA programme at C&G focuses on fine art and does not include other speciality areas such as carving, conservation or restoration. Most of the artists are on hand and are more than happy (we’re talking, almost dying) to talk about their work. An obvious theme this year was isolation and vulnerability, and this was expressed in various ways. One artist worked exclusively in parsley (yes, the herb) and another one we got chatting do expressed herself by making doll sized dioramas filled with dust. Another crafted his work by a very heavy reliance on table salt. 

More traditional mediums are mostly used across the vast Georgian buildings of the school and it is easy to lose yourself as you wander about. A number of artists are working in sculpture and some pure drawing, but the majority of works are on canvas by use or oils, acrylics, or watercolour. Some interesting deviations are present, such as an artist who likes to depict 50’s ‘femme fatales’ in oil on Perspex (below). Some of the works are large format, others miniscule. The volume of work on show can be a bit overwhelming, but the impression is of a well curated and at times stunningly beautiful body of works. 

The MA show is open daily (other than Monday) from 10 to 5 until Saturday, 23 October. Even if you don’t really care for art it is totally free and a fun way to whittle away a lunch break, even if you’re not the arty sort.  

City and Guilds London Art School has a very long and fascinating connection to Greater Kennington. Before being in its present location it was in Vauxhall, with one its early patrons being the Doulton Pottery factory who used their students to embellish their works. With a strong contingent of female students, it also has links to the Suffragette movement in the early 20th century. You can even but some of these works on Ebay!

Greater Kennington’s First Skyscraper

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Long before the behemoths of Vauxhall and the impending towering bewilderments of Elephant, there existed Draper House in Newington Butts, where Kennington meets Elephant and Castle. Nestling shyly next to the ‘who switched the fans off’ Strata, the Draper Estate was built in the Brutalist style in 1965, and when Draper House was finished it was the tallest residential block in London. If you look up at the block today this seems almost unbelievable.  

In order to meet the varying needs of a devastated community post WW2, radical architects Kenneth Campbell and Hubert Bennett were commissioned to create a building consisting of 141 flats and maisonettes. In the manner of Le Corbusier, the idea was that ‘nothing is too good for the ordinary man and woman’ and the building had wide corridors and the unique addition of fire escapes. Campbell and Bennett transcended traditional building methods by installing a cladding of storey high slabs of white Italian marble.  Another unbelievable reality when we look at the cladding of public housing today. 

We were made aware of the interesting existence of Draper House after reading that one of its original residents just moved out after 56 years. Falling into a typical Runoff rabbit hole, we read the interesting stories of current residents such as Ian, who has lived in the building for 36 years and raised his family there. He notes that many residents have lived there for decades and over the years has progressively reflected the multi cultural dynamic that gives Elephant it’s energy. 

Being tall and notable does have a few downsides, and for many years Draper House had a darker side as it was known as the suicide capital of London. Those days are long gone and the multicultural essence persists at ground level with such treats as a Latin American mini mall, a Brazilian hair salon, a Chinese tea house, and two of our favourites eateries – Italian ‘Theos’, and the wonderfully named ‘After Taste’. 

Sprout

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If you’re ever out and about in Kennington Cross you are probably aware that the hardest working man in the patch is Abraham over at Bouquets and Beans in front of St. Anselms, and we interviewed him in 2019. We are proud to announce that the second hardest working man in the Cross is Ned, who set up the fruit and veg stall ‘Sprout’ in March. Ned also works at Bouquets and Beans, and we recently had a chat with him about his spin off project. 

Ned’s passion is produce and cooking, and his day job is working in the catering industry with a view to starting his own catering business. Over the past 18 months the world of catering more or less evaporated as a result of you know what, so with more time on his hands Ned, with support from Abraham, identified a big vegetable shaped hole in the Greater Kennington market.  

Ned tries to use British suppliers but does not admit to letting a few Italian items populate his stall from time to time. The staples are heritage tomatoes, Sicilian lemons, courgettes, leeks, potatoes, salads, apples, and strawberries. He also likes to feature a couple of herbs such as dill or parsley. The Runoff staff have bought some very healthy vegetables at Sprout and managed to turn them into unimaginably unhealthy creations such as aubergine parmigiana, cauliflower curry and courgette lasagne. And now we would NEVER use this site as a platform for self promotion, but how did this raspberry tart end up getting photographed? 

On the practical side, Ned starts setting up his stall at 5:20am (!!!) rain or shine and is open on Friday 7:30 to 5 and Saturday 8:30 to 4. As a cook himself, Ned can also give you some inspiration about what to make. And what happens to the leftover veg at the end of the weekend, you ask? Well he supplies it to our friends over at The Jolly Gardeners in Black Prince Road.

Theos Pizza and Tiramisu

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Pizza helped us in many ways during lockdown. For some it was like a familiar blanket in troubled times. For us it reconfirmed that we can no longer pull off skinny jeans. We at Runoff Towers find that by a mile the best pizza in Greater Kennington is Theos up in Elephant. Our opinion has been seconded by no less than Vogue Magazine (which might not be an accolade as I doubt their readers actually eat pizza).  And now they feature award winning Tiramisu. 

  • Gorgonzola
  • Anchovy

On the pizza front my colleague had the aubergine and Gorgonzola. An adventurous choice, the aubergine was very soft and this was offset by the sharp hit of pecorino followed by the blue hit of Gorgonzola. Your scribe had a ‘my pressure needs to be checked’ salt kick of an anchovy, capers, olive and mozzarella pizza. All the salty elements were balanced well, and the best element of these pizzas is that they are served on a sourdough bread that is blistered on just the good side of being burned. 

Indeed, Theo’s has just won an award for best Tiramisu in London, and in our opinion it is well deserved. It ticked all the boxes of ‘Italian almost trifle’ with a perfect balance of strong coffee, dark chocolate, creamy mascarpone and served between layers of soft cream. 

Upon hearing about this accolade some female members of the Runoff team, and a surprisingly large number of men, implored us to include a picture of the man behind the triamisu. When we observed that this serves no purpose other to objectify this young man they said ‘yeah, and what’s your point’? So in order to avoid industrial action please find his photo below. 

The Ragged Canteen

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Last week we popped over to the lovely but rarely open Beaconsfield Gallery in Vauxhall to check out their Ragged Canteen. It had been closed since before The Event but has now reopened as a ‘vegetarian, not for profit and kind to our planet’ establishment. So everything we aspire to be here at the Runoff. Well other than those days when we’re dealing with work related stress by cramming a £3 meal deal ham sandwich down our gobs…..Moving on…..

  • Yes we are aware that the sandwiches look exactly the same

Toasties are the main draw at Ragged Canteen, and on this outing my colleague had the carmelised onion, oregano, mozzarella and cheddar. It was nice and crispy around the edge, with a bit of cheese oozing out and well filled. Your scribe indulged in a gherkin and red pepper sandwich. Both on a nice thick sourdough and with all that goodness we just wish there had been more. All sandwiches can be made vegan if you ask them to substitute the mozzarella and cheddar with vegan cheeze.  Frequent readers will be aware that we have a long and somewhat tortured relationship with vegan cheeze so we bypassed this option.  

Also on offer at the Canteen are a host of snacks including croissants, crisps, brownies, cakes and cookies. Also available are a range of teas and coffees. We sat outside in their ample plant filled garden with just one another diner and a giant cat to keep us company. 

The name ‘Ragged Canteen’ prosaically references the buildings’ previous life as school for underprivileged youth in Lambeth, and we wrote about this noble and glorious past a few months ago. When it is open to the public the upstairs gallery is home to some very cutting edge and challenging shows. Some folks here in the office recently enjoyed an immersive exhibit about contemplating seeing art virtually versus seeing it in the flesh with the use of virtual reality goggles. 

    Voyages at Newport St. Gallery

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    The spanking new exhibition at Newport Street Gallery in Vauxhall is called ‘Voyages’ and is the first major show outside the US of the work of New York photorealist Richard Estes. For those of you not in the know, photorealism is the ability to precisely depict a photographed scene by paint. Now you might be saying to yourself ‘then why bother – just because you know how do so something doesn’t mean you should do it’. So a bit like yodeling or skipping. But draw closer and the 45 paintings made over 35 years become abstract and aren’t really photographic at all. 

    His best work is on the ground floor and NYC is in the spotlight. Estes makes use out or glass, angles, light, refractions and the constant repetition of this urban field. He also examines people examining other things, such landmarks, cameras and their phones. All of these come together to create something that seems photographically familiar to us but when you get closer to the canvas becomes more like wedges of colour that have been thrown together. 

    Upstairs are more traditional landscapes that capture the small, intimate moments of the artist’s adventures. The paintings tend to become less personal and less real when they aren’t populated by human activity but are nevertheless interesting. Touching down in Copenhagen, approaching Antarctica by sea, and exploring the landscapes of New Zealand, Nepal,  and Tanzania all seem even more exotic given that they have been off limits for the past 18 months and you don’t have to take a lateral flow test to see them. 

    Richard Estes ‘Voyages’ is open now until 12 December. As ever, Newport Street Gallery is totally free and open Wednesday to Sunday. 


    Runoff Rides the Tube

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    The first major addition to the Tube network in the 21st century opened today and, unless you actually live underground yourself, you’re aware that it cuts a great swathe right through Greater Kennington. Today we took a journey on the new billion pound ride (financed by property developers) with our focus on Nine Elms station in Vauxhall.  At the moment trains are running every 10 minutes. 

    We started our journey on the recently reopened Kennington southbound platform now servicing Battersea, which is rather strange as Battersea is west, but that’s the tube for you. Nine Elms Station is next to the Sainbury’s in Wandsworth and is an exercise in functional steel precision with wide platforms, speedy escalators, a large reception hall and overhang in case it is raining. One of our team timed it, and if you are laden with your Sainsbury shop you are only exposed to the elements for 15 seconds in the case of inclement weather. There is no ticket window but plenty of self serve machines. 

    If you dare to travel outside of Greater Kennington the line terminates at Battersea Power Station Station (yes, you’ve read that right) which we also visited. It is a grander affair, and architecturally it resembles a giant recumbent cathedral, featuring a gold painted geometric skylight as you exit. Rather dramatic and fitting with the ostentatious buildings behind it. 

    Four Quarters

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    We confess to a degree of shame at our embrace of the soulless juggernaut that has become Elephant Park. That shame is mitigated, however, by the fact that it is now the home of some of the independent shops that were turfed out of the shopping centre (sadly the electric massage chairs didn’t make it over). And also home to some very cool micro chains, and one of them is a 80/90’s video game themed bar called ‘Four Quarters’. 

    Four Quarters bills itself as a ‘no fills bar’ but they really don’t do themselves justice as they have a good selection of lagers, IPAs, wines and spirits. We booked a table (a Space Invaders table video game, no less) but this is not mandatory. How it works is that you buy real US quarters at the bar and each games costs 25 cents (about 20p). 

    For those of you who get thrilled by your 80’s games, on offer they have Pac Man (Mr and Ms), Donkey Kong, Galaxian, Asteroids, Frogger and a nice range of pinball machines, among others. For those of you who prefer your 90’s games they have early Guitar Hero, Alien v. Predator, The Simpsons, NBA Jam, and Pole Position II. For those of you into gaming after that period then you probably have no idea what we’re talking about, but we’re impressed that you’ve read this far. 

    If you register on the Four Quarters website you can compete for a high score with other users which is a fun way to lure you back. They also have console booths with games such as Nintendo and X Box. They do serve food, but we didn’t see anyone eating there in the midst of the fun. If you’re peckish we recommend 400 Rabbits, which we reviewed a few weeks ago and is next door. 

    Lambeth County Court Art Show

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    If you’re a regular reader with a sharp brain you might recall that in 2019 we implored you to check out the temporarily opened Lambeth County Courthouse near Cleaver Square before it was handed over to property developers. Well, after 2 ½ years of being closed (with the exception of the unfortunate time that Lambeth accidently rented it to Extinction Rebellion and it was raided by police) it is again open very briefly to the public, but now probably for the final time.  

    Without Horizon, Without Shore, is a group show of three female artists who are associated with City and Guilds and have a temporary studio in the Courthouse. The exhibit is somewhat site specific and spans two courtrooms and the corridors/stairwell. It explores themes of nostalgia and contemplation and when we visited,  two of the artists were on hand to explain their work and handy viewing notes were provided. The art is very thought provoking, but the real star here is the disused courthouse itself, which still has many remnants from it’s 95 year history and is quite evocative. In the past perhaps more than a few Greater Kenningtonians themselves contemplated their future in these rooms as they waited judge and jury to determine their fate. 

    Developers are currently trying to obtain planning permission to gentrify the building into (you guessed it) luxury flats but this is being stridently opposed by local residents. Please don’t ask us for our opinion on planning permission,  as last time we weighed in we opened an almighty can of worms which we are still unsuccessfully trying to put back into the tin.  Inchalla…….

    Without Horizon, Without Shore is open now until 26 Sept,  Thursday to Sunday 12-6. The Courthouse is in Cleaver St.