Category Archives: buildings

A Brief History of Lambeth Workhouse

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As promised, this next piece is about the ground around the Cinema Museum and its former life as Lambeth Workhouse. The workhouse was founded in Black Prince Road in 1726 and moved to Renfrew Road in 1871. The Cinema Museum occupies the former master’s house and chapel. The only other building of note is the water tower, which was converted into a bonkers house in 2011 and featured on ‘Grand Designs’. If you ever want to tour it, the home seems to be on sale about four times a year. You  can easily spot the tower in North Kennington

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The Workhouse was a home to 800 inmates (as they were actually referred to) who entered the house as a result of abject destitution. People also came with children if they were unable to care for them. Charlie Chapin was one of these unfortunate lads. It was referred to as a ‘total institution’ as it provided accommodation, food, healthcare, vocational training and a school. Inmates could come and go but had to work some miserable tasks in order to keep a roof over their head.

While offering safety and food, The Lambeth Workhouse was a stifling place to live and deliberately so. Its small, dank rooms were intended discourage anyone except the truly needy from taking a bed. Some of the degrading tasks of the workhouse included breaking stones and crushing bones to produce fertiliser. Some found escape by actually learning a skills, but many languished at the Workhouse for years. Boys and girls who arrived without a parent had it a bit easier, as they were trained to either be domestic servants or join the navy.

About the time of WW1 the demographic of Lambeth Workhouse was evolving and was mostly populated by the elderly, infirm and sick as opposed to the poor, and from 1930 the day to day running of the Workhouse was handed down to Lambeth council.  From the Metropolitan Archives it appears that our workhouse was in operation until 1948 when the National Assistance Act saw that the last vestiges of workhouse life were dealt with, making Lambeth find more suitable places for it’s most vulnerable people to live. More about Workhouses can be found here.

The picture below is from inside the women’s section of the Workhouse

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The Cinema Museum and Lambeth Workhouse

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The Cinema Museum is without question a local institution, and often one that is sometimes overlooked in our busy lives. The first of this two part piece is about the Cinema Museum itself. The next is about the intriguing history of the building and space in which it inhabits. Namely, the Lambeth Workhouse and former home of Charlie Chaplin (who seems to have lived in every property in Kennington).

The Cinema Museum was founded as a private collection in 1986 in Brixton. In 1998 it moved to the then derelict masters quarters of the Lambeth Workhouse which offered it the chance to expand it’s growing collection of cinematic ephemera and to also show films and provide a space for film related events. This hybrid role meant that it could act as a cinema and also a quirky and weird museum of lights, film posters, projectors and costumes which persists to this day.

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Given their limited budget the museum is usually only open to the public by appointment or before and after a screening, gig or a talk. On film nights you can pitch up early and have a intrusive KR prod around its nooks and crannies. Coming up on Thursday BBC journalist Samira Ahmed is speaking as part of their Argentinean film series and vintage flicks are shown on an almost daily basis. They also have upcoming film screenings introduced by Ken Loach and even *clutches Kennington pearls* former porn stars.

The Cinema Museum is a local asset very much at risk of closure without donations and relies entirely on people turning up to events (mea culpa!).   Even if you don’t give a hoot about the film on offer it’s a great chance to have a nose around and learn a bit about of cinematic history. And they have a bar!

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Open House London

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We love nothing more than sticking our noses where they don’t belong, and what better opportunity to undertake this sniffy task is Open House London weekend, which beckons in a few days (21-22 September).

Open House London is an event which promotes the appreciation of architecture by flinging open the doors of otherwise closed spaces to the public, and is totally free. There are a range of venues open for us to see in Lambeth and Southwark but lets not be precious about our anointed patch of earth; there’s stuff going on around the capital (800 and counting, apparently). Below are links to local things we have seen recently and recommend. Last year we particularly enjoyed a gander around the former Beaufoy Institute in Black Prince Road, which has been turned into a Buddhist centre.

International Maritime Organisation

https://openhouselondon.open-city.org.uk/listings/7730

National Theatre

https://openhouselondon.open-city.org.uk/listings/1172

The Beaufoy (Diamond Way Buddhist Centre)

https://openhouselondon.open-city.org.uk/listings/7275

Kia Oval

https://openhouselondon.open-city.org.uk/listings/7143

Waterloo City Farm

https://openhouselondon.open-city.org.uk/listings/6775

Kirkaldy Testing Works

https://openhouselondon.open-city.org.uk/listings/856

The Old Operating Theatre Museum and Herb Garret

https://openhouselondon.open-city.org.uk/listings/1268

If you have your heart set on seeing the inside of Lambeth Palace don’t get your hopes up as we’ve tried for the better part of 20 years and solving the great pong of Kennington tube is probably more achievable. If you want to have a go at seeing it and other iconic venues (such as 10 Downing Street and Mansion House), bookmark Open House in your diary and apply next summer.  Here’s to being nosy!

A Celebration of the Gasholders at Oval

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As regular readers to the Runoff are aware, the iconic gasholders at Oval will soon become past tense, with the exception of the possibly least attractive one (Gasholder 1,below, in a photo from 1957) closest to Montford place which will have it’s middle filled in by flats. The others are to be taken down and replaced by mixed use flats and shops constructed by Berkeley homes. This little missive is not to open the Medusa like can of worms that surrounds the judgement of this decision, but rather a celebration of our soon to be extinct wrought  iron friends.

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Our gasholders are symbols of a bygone age of belching factory chimneys, pea soup fogs and mass manufacturing in London. They stored gas and moved up and down depending on the time of day the gas was needed by industry and residents. When regulators in homes and factories became more robust, however, this became less essential .The paired green gasholders closest to Vauxhall street were erected in 1874 and 1876 in a neo classical style and have Tuscan columns. These would have originally held gas used to service industries at Vauxhall Bridge, and later to homes in Oval, Vauxhall and Kennington. After quite a bit of disagreement in Lambeth these structures were not granted Grade 2 listed status, but given a ‘local listing’, which ultimately sealed their fate.

The iconic Gasholder 1 was constructed in 1877 and at the time was the largest such structure in the world. It was designed by Frank and George Livesey and these two factors, combined with it’s very fortunate location overlooking the cricket ground, saved it’s hollowed and hallowed skin. In a similar note, after being behind hoardings since the dawn  of time the sketchy Cricketers pub at the base of the holder seems to now have a new lease on life, risen like the phoenix from the ashes as depicted on our soon to be removed gasholder 4.

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Eleanor Coade and the Code of her Stone

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We’re going slightly off grid here to take you up to the Kennington suburb of  Waterloo. If you’ve ever had the misfortunate of being trapped in a srcum of people trying to make their way into ‘Shrek’s Adventure London’ you might have noticed a remarkably pristine and proud lion on the southern end of Westminster Bridge, guarding the entrance in Lambeth. The lion was created by William Woodington but was cast in a remarkable stone invented by local resident and female pioneer Eleanor Coade and is called ‘The Coadestone Lion’.

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Our feline friend was created in 1837 to dangle at the pinnacle of the Lion Brewery. The building was pulled down in 1949 to make way for the Royal Festival Hall and the poor beast then suffered a number of indignities including having a time capsule stuck up his bum, being painted red, and then getting dropped. After a brief stint outside Waterloo station his destiny was preserved at the bridge in 1966 and afterwards he achieved a Grade II listing (talk about hard work). His noble and pristine appearance has endured due to Eleanor’s  invention of a highly durable, frost and freeze proof artificial stone, which is actually a kind of ceramic. The formula was created in our backyard by Eleanor at the cusp of the 18thand 19thcentury.  Eleanor is said to have taken the formula to her grave when she died in 1821, and it has since been lost.

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There were a number of potteries and ceramics factories experimenting with artificial  stone in Vauxhall at the time and perhaps Eleanor chose to ply her trade in our area in order to capitalise on the industry. In spite of stiff competition, Coade’s stone proved very popular and was commissioned for  use in Buckingham Palace, the National Gallery, and the Royal Opera House. If you would like to see specimens of her craft but are afraid you might turn to stone yourself if you leave greater Kennington, check out Captain Bligh’s tomb at the Gardening Museum, the porch at the main entrance of Brunswick House, or the lovely gargoyles above the windows at 57 South Lambeth Road next to the ‘opposite of lovely’ Travis Perkins. After 1840 her formula was lost and has never been recreated.

Have a nice weekend and enjoy exploring….

St. Anselm’s Church Frieze Being Carved

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Third in our series of historic photos of Kennington takes us to St. Anselm’s church. This photo was taken during the summer of 1933 and depicts the frieze above the Romanesque doors being carved. The artist is Alfred Gerrard, who at the time was head sculptor at the Slade School of Art and is at the bottom of the photo. Carving must be very good exercise, as Mr. Gerrard lived to be 99, 65 years after this photo was taken.

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Church of England Society for Waifs and Strays, 1935

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Do you recognise the festive, festooned building below? The date is 1935, and the kiddos outside are eagerly awaiting a visit by King George V to their home. The building still very much stands at the base of central Kennington, but is now largely empty except for a video production company around the back.

The neo-classical, Grade II building you are looking  at below was built in 1852 and was the Vestry Hall (essentially the Town Hall) for Lambeth until things started getting a bit tight at the turn of the century. That’s when the Town Hall abandoned us for bigger spaces in Brixton. Lambeth then leased the building to the Church of England Children’s Society as their headquarters. Also known as the Waifs and Strays, the charity arranged pastoral care and fostering for poor and destitute kids who lived there, and the kids feature in this photo.  It served this noble purpose until another Charity, the Countryside Alliance, moved in behind the columns in 1986.

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The Gardening Museum and a Scary Tony Blair Gnome

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Our second gardening blog in a week, you lucky devils! Over the weekend we popped over to the Gardening Museum to inspect it’s not so recent (2017) renovation and to see if it’s worth getting your hands dirty for.

The museum is set within a 12thcentury church next to Lambeth Palace (and visitors can climb the original tower). Surprisingly, the church was  almost demolished in the 1970’s but saved by gardening enthusiasts (and Charlie Chaplin)  keen to preserve the memory of John Tradescant, who’s garden themed tomb still stands in the outside garden. The deconsecrated church setting is one of the primary features.

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The museum itself is on the small side and encompasses bedding design, implements, seeds, and how ‘plant hunters’ brought plants to the UK from around the world which still flourish to this day. There are also paintings and sketches. The exhibits also includes interesting displays of old lawn mowers, FlyMo’s and even (wait for it) a collection of garden gnomes!  Our favourite is a slightly psychotic gnome which bears an uncanny resemblance to Tony Blair:

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The author of 90% of content here on the Runoff was undertaken by my brilliant predessesor who heretofore shall be referred to as ‘Jamie’. Jamie was a big fan of the café at the Gardening Museum and s/he made it their number one pick for best local restaurant earlier this year (In case you wondered Jamie isn’t dead). It is bright, open to the gardens and very informal if not a bit pricey. A little courtyard in the middle of the restaurant is dominated by the tomb of William Bligh (of Mutiny on the Bounty fame) and family. The inscription to his wife being every bit as moving as that of his on the front.

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At £10 the museum is a bit on the steep side but if you want to get the dirt on gardening it is certainly the place to be. And it has a nice shop!

Lambeth County Court

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Do you like architecture? Do you like site specific art stuff? Well the Runoff loves both, and if you are a kindred spirit you’re in double luck. We’ve just noticed that the old Lambeth County Court building in Cleaver Street, which closed forever at the end of 2017 after 90 years hard service as a housing court, is hosting a site specific art installation and it is open both this weekend (1-2 June) and next weekend. This will probably be your last ever chance to see the 92 year old art deco beaut  before it is handed over to developers and probably turned into _______  ________ (I’ll leave you to fill in the blanks, but it isn’t ‘subsidised housing’).

The artist in question is called Greta Alfaro and the show is called ‘I Will Not Hesitate to React Spiritually’. I’ll let the website do the talking about the content of the show. Meanwhile, open to Kenningtonians is the main reception area, the stairwell, a courtroom, and a further room which features a video installation of a person in a powdered wig and a veil tap dancing on a table. Enjoy!

I also accidentally opened the doors to some other rooms which were unlocked, but I couldn’t possibly recommend that you do likewise. Photos below…..Image-5.pngImage-1.pngImage-2.pngImage-4.png

How a Beefeater Ended Up In Kennington

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Most of you are aware that the world famous Beefeater Gin is distilled right here in mighty Kennington, but have you ever wondered why? Well we’re about to tell you.

As Gin became newly acceptable and ‘on trend’ in the 1860’s (much like the 2010’s) a pharmacist named James Burrough bought an old school distillery in Chelsea and decided to add ‘London’ and ‘Beefeater’ to it’s name as a break from the past and as an homage to it’s origin. By 1908 the factory in Chelsea was proving too cramped and they packed up and moved near the Royal Douton factories in Black Prince Road. The move was strategic, as Doulton made many of the kilns in which the ‘mother’s ruin’ was brewed.

By the mid 1950’s the premesis was again proving too old and cramped and Beefeater decided to move to an old pickle factory in Montford Place, where it remains to this day (this is not how we get the phrase ‘getting pickled’, but wouldn’t that be fun). This is when Beefeater really took off and became a global brand. At the time the site was much larger as Beefeater also bottled it’s gin on site. In 1988 the Burrough family sold out to a brewing chain who quickly moved the bottling facility to Scotland. This left a lot of excess land, which was sold to Tesco (and then to Berkeley Homes but lets not open that can of worms again). The company is now owned by French giant Pernod Ricard.

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A number of years ago we visited the distillery, before the visitor centre and shop were introduced in 2016. It is a fascinating place. Apparently it employs ‘about 5 people’ which might explain the desolate atmosphere around the place. However, The £15 charge for touring the place might also explain the desolate atmosphere around the place. On the upside, the shop offers a range of unusual gins that you won’t find in places elsewhere in London. Shame more Kennington pubs don’t fly the Beefeater banner proudly!