A Little History of 20th Century Architecture in Our Realm, Part 2

Pull those chairs a little closer still, boys and girls, as promised this is the second installment of the Duchy of Cornwall’s influence on the architecture of our area. This time we move forward and north east towards Oval and Vauxhall. Sorry Walworth, we will spread our pixie dust on good yourselves as soon as possible. We’re currently investigating zebras and lions in Pasley Park.

As mentioned last week, the town planner and architect Stanley Ashtead is responsible for the look and feel of much of post Victorian Kennington. He was influenced by the Georgian architecture of Kennington Road and this is heavily in evidence at Kennington Palace Court, below, circa 1922. There are also other examples in Black Prince Road and Sandcroft St. However, at the same time change was afoot in our area, and there was an increasing need for more high density housing.

Following WW1 the Duchy undertook a number of projects to further alleviate some affects of local deprivation. In spite of the Duchy’s many achievements conditions of poor housing endured, and as land became available (called ‘disposals’ for the nerdy sort) London County Council demanded that something be executed. As a response the Duchy sold sites to the east of the Oval to LCC (which later became Lambeth Council).  The Kennington Estate was the result, and the buildings live on as mighty tributes to famous Cricket players of the past, such as George Lohman and Bill Brockwell. You can even see the influence of the Duchy incorporated into the columns at the Oval end of the Cricket ground, if you look closely. If you don’t fancy looking closely we have a picture below

We again post an interesting doc about the Duchy of Cornwall estate and it can be found here. The Kennington funness kicks off at minute 41. If you’ve read this far then you probably have an interest in buildings. If this is the case we are going to a consultation this week about a proposed high rise slated for Kennington Lane, and we will let you know what we find….A case of history repeating, if ever there was one.

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A Little History of 20th Century Architecture in Our Realm, Part 1

Ok boys and girls, move your chairs up. We’re about to tell about the recent history of the Duchy of Cornwall Estate in two petite, pop up pieces. The first covers the development of the area in Kennington and Vauxhall from 1890 to 1914; the second covers the era between the wars. For the unaware, the Duchy is one of the titles of the Prince of Wales, which is why you can see his heraldic badge popping up around the area. We’ve included a few pics of what we are writing about the bottom, and we have more on our Instagram page.

The modern history of the Duchy Estate commenced in the 1890’s when many middle class folk were abandoning our area. Kennington had not escaped the exodus of people to greener and cleaner areas in the suburbs, and most of the housing stock had become very run down. The Duchy was concerned about the conditions in which many of our predecessors lived, and a start was made in 1893 to create modern, cleaner tenements. These first edifices were social experiments and still very much exist in Chester Way, the Duchy Arms end of Courtney St, bits of Newburn St, and Kennington Lane among other places.

In 1909, following a tour of housing estates in Germany, Stanley Adshead proposed further development of the Estate as more land became available. His idea was to draw middle class people back to our area, but the Duchy resisted as it felt it had a much more noble obligation to re-house existing tenants, mostly the old and working poor who were living in very substandard conditions. What they agreed on and what we still see today reflect a compromise. The houses on Denny Street (where you can see the German gabled influence of Ashtead’s travels), Cardigan St, and the bottom of Courtney Street were then created not for the destitute, but for older people and working families who deserved something better. A new and revolutionary kind of tenement was also erected, now called Woodstock Court, set around a central courtyard.

In designing some of the homes of this period, Ashtead was influenced by the Georgian houses in Kennington Road, which by that time were well over 100 years old. As an urban neighbourhood he appreciated the scale and feel of being in a town, as opposed to the rustic terraces inspired by Victorians like William Morris, and his small squares remain an influence. One of his last projects was St. Anselm’s Church in Kennington Cross. Work was commenced and then paused in 1914 due to the war, not to be resumed until 1933. You can see the pause in the brickwork about 16 feet on the side of the building. And this, reader, is where our story itself pauses.

In our next atom of archival architecture we will move through the first world war and up to the second, and focus on the estates in Oval and further into Vauxhall.

If you would like some more insight into the Duchy of Cornwall Estate check out this documentary on YouTube. If you have a poor attention span like us scroll to minute 41 where they talk about Kennington, Vauxhall and Oval. You might even see your own home!

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Kuma in Kennington Cross

If you follow our inane ramblings on social media you might have noticed that we’ve been sniffing around and discovered that the site formerly known as ‘Doost’ is about be transformed into ‘Kuma’ and the cuisine will be Korean/Japanese (yeay). Works are moving apace, and if we ever succeed in our mission of becoming ‘Kennington Influencers’ we’ll be invited to the soft launch, showered with sushi, and tell you all about it. IMG_5700

Newport St. Gallery and Damien Hirst

Honorary Kennington resident Damien Hirst has the very fortunate problem of having too much art on his hands. We at KR Towers can sympathise and have a very similar problem. Well, if you substitute ‘art’ with ‘chipped coffee mugs’. He’s allowed us to dip a toe into his voluminous collection and it is currently show at his very own Newport Street gallery in Vauxhall. We recently zipped along to check it out.
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This tiny sample of Hirst’s vast collection gives the viewer an intriguing insight into his tastes and influences and includes works by Francis Bacon, Helen Frankenthaller, Andy Warhol, Sarah Lucas, and the man himself. His interest in shocking the viewer is evident in this grouping, but perhaps less so than in much of his personal body of work. Themes of death and despair are certainly evident, but so are whimsical motifs (his interest in Jeff Koons springs to mind). Be sure not to miss his barnacled Mickey Mouse upstairs. The collection spans genres and mediums and includes sculpture, oils, and even a door by William S. Borroughs.

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In the midst of this collection are two rooms dedicated to the current work of artist John Squire. We didn’t really engage with this, but it is heavily influenced by music, motion, with multimedia aspects. And for the music nerds out there, this is the same John Squire who was the guitarist for the Stone Roses.

‘Reasons Give no Answers’ and ‘John Squire: Disinformation’ are on now and run until mid November. And totally free…..and we love that…..

Damien, if you are a KR enthusiast (and we reckon you are) feel free to drop us a line and we will return the favour by showing you selected works from our own collection.

Below:

‘Chipped coffee mug with PG Tips bag’                                                                                                   ………Ceramic and mixed media, 2019                                                                                                     ……….Collection of Kennington Runoff

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The Prince of Wales and Their New Menu

For the uninitiated, the Prince of Wales is our own little country pub smack dab in the middle of Kennington. Tucked away in a corner of Cleaver Square, it rather feels like you’ve been spirited 200 miles north of our knighted patch of earth.

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The Prince of Wales have been going cray cray on social media recently to promote their new menu, so on a recent balmy night we decided to succumb to the pressure and check it out. Our modus operandi was ‘well it couldn’t be any worse then their old menu, so lets give it a twirl’. When we arrived we were pleased to discover that it has not only a new menu, but new owners, having evolved from a chain pub to one that is independently owned. And how often do you see that in 2019?

The pub has a few new cask ales and wines but in true KR style we were more interested in stuffing our faces. My dining partner had the spiced buttermilk chicken burger on a glazed brioche bun. This undefined person got nice spice from the chipotle mayo and the chicken was soft and made succulent with the creamy buttermilk. The chips were big, triple cooked and definitely not out of the freezer. Our verdict; probably better in Belgium, but for SE11 it was pretty flipping good (geddit…flipping, burger?).

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Your author had the cornfed chicken and chorizo hash. Mine was a mighty chunk of chicken served with a confident splash of bourguignon sauce. The hash was really more of chunky mash potato with very spicy, paprika punched chorizo. I never got to the bottom of the hispy cabbage affair, but it bulked up the plate and acted as a crunchy counterpoint.

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In conclusion, if you crave some pub grub and want a place without music, shouting or people coming up to you every two seconds asking  ‘are are alright’, then the POW might be your thing…..And they even have candles on the table now. Fancy!

A Brief History of Lambeth Workhouse

As promised, this next piece is about the ground around the Cinema Museum and its former life as Lambeth Workhouse. The workhouse was founded in Black Prince Road in 1726 and moved to Renfrew Road in 1871. The Cinema Museum occupies the former master’s house and chapel. The only other building of note is the water tower, which was converted into a bonkers house in 2011 and featured on ‘Grand Designs’. If you ever want to tour it, the home seems to be on sale about four times a year. You  can easily spot the tower in North Kennington

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The Workhouse was a home to 800 inmates (as they were actually referred to) who entered the house as a result of abject destitution. People also came with children if they were unable to care for them. Charlie Chapin was one of these unfortunate lads. It was referred to as a ‘total institution’ as it provided accommodation, food, healthcare, vocational training and a school. Inmates could come and go but had to work some miserable tasks in order to keep a roof over their head.

While offering safety and food, The Lambeth Workhouse was a stifling place to live and deliberately so. Its small, dank rooms were intended discourage anyone except the truly needy from taking a bed. Some of the degrading tasks of the workhouse included breaking stones and crushing bones to produce fertiliser. Some found escape by actually learning a skills, but many languished at the Workhouse for years. Boys and girls who arrived without a parent had it a bit easier, as they were trained to either be domestic servants or join the navy.

About the time of WW1 the demographic of Lambeth Workhouse was evolving and was mostly populated by the elderly, infirm and sick as opposed to the poor, and from 1930 the day to day running of the Workhouse was handed down to Lambeth council.  From the Metropolitan Archives it appears that our workhouse was in operation until 1948 when the National Assistance Act saw that the last vestiges of workhouse life were dealt with, making Lambeth find more suitable places for it’s most vulnerable people to live. More about Workhouses can be found here.

The picture below is from inside the women’s section of the Workhouse

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The Cinema Museum and Lambeth Workhouse

The Cinema Museum is without question a local institution, and often one that is sometimes overlooked in our busy lives. The first of this two part piece is about the Cinema Museum itself. The next is about the intriguing history of the building and space in which it inhabits. Namely, the Lambeth Workhouse and former home of Charlie Chaplin (who seems to have lived in every property in Kennington).

The Cinema Museum was founded as a private collection in 1986 in Brixton. In 1998 it moved to the then derelict masters quarters of the Lambeth Workhouse which offered it the chance to expand it’s growing collection of cinematic ephemera and to also show films and provide a space for film related events. This hybrid role meant that it could act as a cinema and also a quirky and weird museum of lights, film posters, projectors and costumes which persists to this day.

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Given their limited budget the museum is usually only open to the public by appointment or before and after a screening, gig or a talk. On film nights you can pitch up early and have a intrusive KR prod around its nooks and crannies. Coming up on Thursday BBC journalist Samira Ahmed is speaking as part of their Argentinean film series and vintage flicks are shown on an almost daily basis. They also have upcoming film screenings introduced by Ken Loach and even *clutches Kennington pearls* former porn stars.

The Cinema Museum is a local asset very much at risk of closure without donations and relies entirely on people turning up to events (mea culpa!).   Even if you don’t give a hoot about the film on offer it’s a great chance to have a nose around and learn a bit about of cinematic history. And they have a bar!

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Open House London

We love nothing more than sticking our noses where they don’t belong, and what better opportunity to undertake this sniffy task is Open House London weekend, which beckons in a few days (21-22 September).

Open House London is an event which promotes the appreciation of architecture by flinging open the doors of otherwise closed spaces to the public, and is totally free. There are a range of venues open for us to see in Lambeth and Southwark but lets not be precious about our anointed patch of earth; there’s stuff going on around the capital (800 and counting, apparently). Below are links to local things we have seen recently and recommend. Last year we particularly enjoyed a gander around the former Beaufoy Institute in Black Prince Road, which has been turned into a Buddhist centre.

International Maritime Organisation

https://openhouselondon.open-city.org.uk/listings/7730

National Theatre

https://openhouselondon.open-city.org.uk/listings/1172

The Beaufoy (Diamond Way Buddhist Centre)

https://openhouselondon.open-city.org.uk/listings/7275

Kia Oval

https://openhouselondon.open-city.org.uk/listings/7143

Waterloo City Farm

https://openhouselondon.open-city.org.uk/listings/6775

Kirkaldy Testing Works

https://openhouselondon.open-city.org.uk/listings/856

The Old Operating Theatre Museum and Herb Garret

https://openhouselondon.open-city.org.uk/listings/1268

If you have your heart set on seeing the inside of Lambeth Palace don’t get your hopes up as we’ve tried for the better part of 20 years and solving the great pong of Kennington tube is probably more achievable. If you want to have a go at seeing it and other iconic venues (such as 10 Downing Street and Mansion House), bookmark Open House in your diary and apply next summer.  Here’s to being nosy!

A Celebration of the Gasholders at Oval

As regular readers to the Runoff are aware, the iconic gasholders at Oval will soon become past tense, with the exception of the possibly least attractive one (Gasholder 1,below, in a photo from 1957) closest to Montford place which will have it’s middle filled in by flats. The others are to be taken down and replaced by mixed use flats and shops constructed by Berkeley homes. This little missive is not to open the Medusa like can of worms that surrounds the judgement of this decision, but rather a celebration of our soon to be extinct wrought  iron friends.

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Our gasholders are symbols of a bygone age of belching factory chimneys, pea soup fogs and mass manufacturing in London. They stored gas and moved up and down depending on the time of day the gas was needed by industry and residents. When regulators in homes and factories became more robust, however, this became less essential .The paired green gasholders closest to Vauxhall street were erected in 1874 and 1876 in a neo classical style and have Tuscan columns. These would have originally held gas used to service industries at Vauxhall Bridge, and later to homes in Oval, Vauxhall and Kennington. After quite a bit of disagreement in Lambeth these structures were not granted Grade 2 listed status, but given a ‘local listing’, which ultimately sealed their fate.

The iconic Gasholder 1 was constructed in 1877 and at the time was the largest such structure in the world. It was designed by Frank and George Livesey and these two factors, combined with it’s very fortunate location overlooking the cricket ground, saved it’s hollowed and hallowed skin. In a similar note, after being behind hoardings since the dawn  of time the sketchy Cricketers pub at the base of the holder seems to now have a new lease on life, risen like the phoenix from the ashes as depicted on our soon to be removed gasholder 4.

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Eleanor Coade and the Code of her Stone

We’re going slightly off grid here to take you up to the Kennington suburb of  Waterloo. If you’ve ever had the misfortunate of being trapped in a srcum of people trying to make their way into ‘Shrek’s Adventure London’ you might have noticed a remarkably pristine and proud lion on the southern end of Westminster Bridge, guarding the entrance in Lambeth. The lion was created by William Woodington but was cast in a remarkable stone invented by local resident and female pioneer Eleanor Coade and is called ‘The Coadestone Lion’.

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Our feline friend was created in 1837 to dangle at the pinnacle of the Lion Brewery. The building was pulled down in 1949 to make way for the Royal Festival Hall and the poor beast then suffered a number of indignities including having a time capsule stuck up his bum, being painted red, and then getting dropped. After a brief stint outside Waterloo station his destiny was preserved at the bridge in 1966 and afterwards he achieved a Grade II listing (talk about hard work). His noble and pristine appearance has endured due to Eleanor’s  invention of a highly durable, frost and freeze proof artificial stone, which is actually a kind of ceramic. The formula was created in our backyard by Eleanor at the cusp of the 18thand 19thcentury.  Eleanor is said to have taken the formula to her grave when she died in 1821, and it has since been lost.

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There were a number of potteries and ceramics factories experimenting with artificial  stone in Vauxhall at the time and perhaps Eleanor chose to ply her trade in our area in order to capitalise on the industry. In spite of stiff competition, Coade’s stone proved very popular and was commissioned for  use in Buckingham Palace, the National Gallery, and the Royal Opera House. If you would like to see specimens of her craft but are afraid you might turn to stone yourself if you leave greater Kennington, check out Captain Bligh’s tomb at the Gardening Museum, the porch at the main entrance of Brunswick House, or the lovely gargoyles above the windows at 57 South Lambeth Road next to the ‘opposite of lovely’ Travis Perkins. After 1840 her formula was lost and has never been recreated.

Have a nice weekend and enjoy exploring….