If money were no object then Brunwisck House would nab the top spot, but as money DOES matter they’ve bagged the still respectable six slot. Please note that restaurants on this scale have menus that change almost daily. So what you read below (from 2024) might not still be available.
If you’ve ever noticed a large Georgian mansion which appears to be on the precipice of getting inhaled by skyscrapers in the Vauxhall gyratory, it is called Brunswick House (and we’ve written about it here) and for several years they have run a critically acclaimed restaurant, in addition to its main hustle of selling (very) high end architectural salvage.
The dining room sits effortlessly in a large space in Brunswick House selling mostly chandeliers, light fittings and other gorgeous things. For an upmarket restaurant, the clientele was surprisingly young in a kind of ‘please come to my book launch next week’ kind of way. And no sooner do we sit down than we are joined at the next table by no other than TV presenter Miquita Oliver and a gaggle of her gorgeous, hair flicking friends! They were a nice complement to our botanical and creative cocktails, the favourite being their house eucalyptus martini.
The menu at Brunswick House often requires a diction course or at least a dictionary. But fear not, the drilled to perfection serving staff can help you differentiate between a chicharron and a tardivo. And there is the very modern dilemma of trying to decipher a sharing plate from a mains. Highlights among the snack or starter sizes were the salt cod croquettes, the roasted leeks and the devilled eggs. The croquettes oozed with creamy salty fishiness, while the roasted leeks were winning for an innovative combination with a tangy sauce derived from red peppers and pecans. The devilled eggs had a seventies retro quality but the trout roe filling gave it a more on trend feel.
For the mains, your scribe had the roast cod with sea greens and spring vegetable chowder. The meaty and flaky cod was set off well with what appeared to be a tureen of well matched veg with an aniseed hit. A big hit on the main size dishes was the fresh maccheroni (note proper Italian spelling). This packed a big flavour hit with the curious sounding combination of roast chicken butter, wild garlic and bottarga (translation: grey mullet roe). Curious it was but definitely lovely – rich and satisfying.
Fancy Macaroi Cod
And then, after a night spent with Maquita and her chums set amongst glittering chandiliers and food we couldn’t pronounce, our night was over and we were deposited into a bus fumed traffic gyratory in Vauxhall. But the wonderful food made it worthwhile. This kind of food is by no means cheap, but one of the few glories of sharing portions is that you can just pop in for a snack of two £5 plates and they’re fine with that.
And were off for 2025! The number ten spot has been grabbed by the Japanese canteen Taro at the bottom of Kennington Road. Part of the Greater Kennington firmament for over five years now, Taro consistently delivers authentic ‘Izakaya’, (roughly meaning ‘pub food’) very similar to the food you get in Japan, and is good value for money. They also have a menu more diverse than most Izakaya places (not always a good thing but it is in this case), which caters to varied tastes. Believe it or not there are a number of Japanese joints in our area, but this is reams above the lot, and militantly avoids fusion cuisine.
Some Observer staff have been to Japan and on a previous Taro visit we took KR freelance journalist Mark, who lived in Japan for years and served as our culinary attaché. We had sushi (both tempura-maki and other maki) which was fresh and generous on the fish side. We also had fried chicken (above), which was crunchy and equally meaty. For a veg angle we also indulged in juicy tofu steak, with a surfeit of ginger and wasabi. For sides we recommend onshinko pickles and gyoza dipped in soy vinegar. Both veg and meat gyozas are great. The salmon teriyaki bento box at the next table also caught our eye.
And if you’re lucky, Taro himself will be on hand to guide you through his dishes and can remind us all that sushi should never be served cold. And yes, Tesco have been tagged in this post.
Do you like skeletons, images of corpses and death dinner parties? Of course you do, and for your slightly surreal delectation we just attended the exhibit ‘Wes Lang: the Black Paintings’ which is now on until 9 March at The Newport Street Gallery in Vauxhall. And as TKO readers are aware we love free.
Newport Street is owned and curated by Damien Hirst, who is known for his explorations of mortality, death and the concentration concepts between the two. We have explored his exhibits at Newport at several points in the past, and this frankly bonkers exhibit fits well into his interest base. Lang takes from his inspiration Francis Bacon, James Ensor, and although the website won’t confess to this, probably B-list American horror films meets zombie flicks mixed with that great scene from ‘Carrie’ where all hell breaks loose at the prom.
Central to Lang’s work is his interest in helping people live meaningful lives and understand the concept of the temporality of our existence. In light of what is going on in our increasingly chaotic 2025 lives, this might be a strange solace.
As our new intern Allen appears to be up with the kids, we recently sent him on a mission to check out Greater Kennington’s latest LGBTQI+ bar Betty and Joan’s, with the exciting addition of a Queer Comedy club. Claiming to be the UK (and possibly the world’s) only gay comedy club, B&J is an independent queer owned venue which was originally based in north London but have relocated to Elephant Park because, not to brag, its all happening down here.
Allen went to Betty and Joan’s on a Saturday night and was impressed by the young and down to earth crowd enjoying dance anthems and drink deals. The cabaret performer was Karise McCock and spinning tunes was DJ Christina Draguilera. On other nights performers include Tiana Biscuit, Rhys’ Pieces and Ophelia Love. We frankly have no idea who any of these people are, but they certainly sound like a lot of fun. On the website there is also a music quiz night and activities/DJ’s nightly.
The comedy room is a dedicated performance space adjacent to B&J and opens on 7 January. It will be a combination of free (we love free) nights with paid events later in the week. It will likely be a mix of very experienced mainstream comics trying out new material and brand new acts just taking their very first steps onto the comedy scene. So you might get folks you’ve seen on Live at the Apollo or people who are, shall we say, having their ‘moment in the sun’. Keep checking the website as these kinds of things fill up very quickly.
Allen, if you’re reading this we’re very appreciative that you worked on a Saturday but you’re not getting overtime for an evening spent downing sambuca shots and flirting with men. And we’ll blithely forget the Instagram video taken at 11:38pm of you dancing to ‘Toxic’. Betty and Joan’s is open nightly and is in Elephant Park. It is also open on New Years Eve and tickets can be nabbed on their website. We expect Allen will be there.
The period between Christmas and new years is a funny one. We’ve opened all our presents, drank the fridge dry, partied too hard and are about to do it all again. On top of that we’re skint and have time on our hands. So why not spend some of that free skint time at the free Imperial War Museum? You know, that hulking big institution that we’ve been banging on about since the early ‘80’s?
Churchill in Cartoons: Satirising a Statesman marks 150 years since the birth of the great statesman and this show affectionately celebrates his career through one of his favourite mediums, the cartoon. Churchill himself knew of the power of cartoons, and viewed his ‘V’ sign and cigar as props which he invited to be satirised. In an era before TV, cartoons were a powerful tool of communication between politicians and the public.
This exhibit doesn’t embrace the frankly modish interpretation of satirisation (we’re looking at you, Guardian) which attempts to bring down politicians by exploiting their foibles. Rather, we see a Churchill taking charge and leading a frightened public through its darkest hour with a needed sense of humour. We also see Nazi propaganda used to depict Churchill in a very different manner. However. This exhibit runs through the entirely of his career, from 1909 to the 1950’s.
You may find it a bit counterintuitive spending the festival season in a place dedicated to blowing things up. But the IWM isn’t that at all, and if anything it celebrates the human spirit. The gallery will be closed on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day, but open every day after that. And if Churchill isn’t the kind of cigar you like to chomp on, then why not visit the great Blavatnik Art, Film and Photography Galleries or the exhibit ‘War and the Mind’, which we brilliantly wrote about?
Orchestral music is often inaccessible to many people for a variety of reasons, but we’re about to be blessed yet again this weekend in Walworth for a different kind of Christmassy concert that are free and open for everyone!
Brixton Chamber Orchestra is a diverse group of 25 Brixton based instrumentalists who provide and create music across a range of genres including…wait for it….classical, disco, gospel, grime, rap, swing, pop, drum & bass and others, and often have guest vocalists. They usually ply their trade in community halls and churches in Brixton, which explains why they’re not on our radar. And they’re not in Greater Kennington. But they are now.
Funded by Arts Council England and, surprisingly, by Lambeth Council, BCO is in the midst of a Christmas estates tour of 11 estates in Lambeth. They will be gracing us with their presence on Saturday in the Brandon Estate (those large buildings at the back of Kennington Park). Saturday, 21st December @ 3:30 PM Maddock Way, London SE17 3NH
This looks like it might be outside, so stop by the offie your way to pick up your favourite Christmas tipple.
We attended this event in 2022 and it was great fun. Each show is unique and they’ve been known to feature guests musicians. They also encourage folks to get up and sing along, which should be made easier with that bottle you bought from the offie. And if this is sounding like a kids event, trust us it isn’t. Not that there is anything wrong with kids, a few Runoff staff were once kids themselves. If you can’t make it or don’t live in Greater Kennington there are more dates on their website.
Did we mention it’s free? Did we add that we love free? The clip below is a summer tour from a few years ago but lets you know what they’re about.
Before we commence our mega mix of how you can buy gifts for people you love/put up with this Christmas, let’s think about the Greater Kenningtonians out there who are struggling to put food on the table in these difficult times. This year we’re supporting the Secret Santa campaign run by our friends over at the Kennington Association. Last year KA raised funds to give shopping vouchers to 150 local households, with the families chosen by local early needs professionals. To find out more and to donate, click here. If you like the more hands on approach there is a food collection box next to the exit at Tesco in Kennington Lane.
FOOD AND DRINK
Italo Vauxhall and Nosh at Marcellos (formerly Mimi’s Deli) both have a range of Italian foodie gift ideas including wines, beers, spices, panettone (that’s Italian for ‘stale cake’), oils, cheeses and even posh sauces. Mimi’s has also added to the seating at turned it into a kind of glitter themed pop up Italian accessory shop not visible from the road. They also do custom made hampers. As you can see below, the joint is rammed this year.
The new kid on the Block is Chocolate Dino Company in Kennington Road. Before establishing a bricks and mortar premises they functioned primarily as an online retailer, and you can still buy their cookies and pastries online. Reserve this for someone you have a crush on. as the delicacies aren’t exactly cheap. But we need to support these fellas as they are the bulwark against Gail’s.
Oval Farmer’s Market Ever thought about buying an edible Christmas gift from our own beloved country market? They stock many things that won’t perish under the tree such as chorizo, chocolates and wine. We’re also concerned that the Market is kind of dying and we need to prevent this. You have two Saturdays before Christmas!
The Market at Elephant Park is another newbie for 2024 and offers items similar to that found in Oval, with the addition of some wooly jumpers and those ponchos that you see everywhere but no one seems to wear.
Beefeater Gin Distillery has a lovely but totally deserted gift shop offering unusual, limited run gins and gin accessories. You can also buy a gift voucher to tour the distillery (we can confirm it’s great fun). Perfect for your loved one who likes a nice holiday tipple or to get your annoying uncle Fred to nod off before the turkey is served. We understand Beefeater’s parent company Pernot Ricard is the opposite of independent, but it’s Christmas so don’t judge us.
Orbit Brewery is our own hidden away little gem of a brewery in Walworth. Online or in person you can buy a range of their lagers, cders, ales, porters, and even socks. And the rumour is true, they sell tzatziki flavoured beer that we can only describe as, well, ‘adventurous’.
Didi and Franc have gone full tilt in 2024 and are selling custom made hampers to fill with their gorgeous goods. But if, like us, you don’t fit their demographic, you can just buy one of their baskets and fill it with things from the corner shop. And while you’re there you can pick up a panettone at I due Amici next door. Panettone being of course the food that you never actually eat, but just regift at a Christmas party you’ve been invited to.
NON FOOD
Castle Square When you think of Christmas shopping the first thing that springs to mind probably isn’t ‘ooh, lets go to the place behind Elephant Station where they keep the bins’. But if you venture there you’ll discover a clutch of independent shops that used to exist in the shopping centre. Great for your younger folk looking for baseball caps, hoodies, clothes, or undergarments to make your bum look either smaller or larger. While there pop over to the retro video game emporium 4 Quarters?
SoLo Craft Fair is a collective of online artists and creatives who run a bricks and mortar shop in Elephant Park. Sixty small businesses have their work shown on rotation and during our journey we saw affordable jewellery, handbags, baskets, cards, scarves, bath salts, prints and T-shirts. Things that smell nice seem be dominant this year.
Hound Hut The Hound Hut is proof that in Britain dogs are more important that mere humans. Known by us as the ‘Harrods of doggie treats’, here you can treat your pooch to refrigerated dog food too posh to eat yourself. And of course, what discerning doggie in Greater Kennington would be seen without a lamb ear (with hair!) to gnaw on?
Pretty Shiny Shop sit nexts to the Hound Hut and they swaggeringly claim to be Greater Kennington’s Christmas Shop (steady) and they stock a range or cards, houseware items, and Christmas tree goodies, and small pieces of jewellery. It’s like a giant Christmas explosion in that place. They even have a ‘dress your own Harry Styles’ kit.
Windmill Flowers stocks not just flowers but also collectables and houseware accessories and Mary is in charge to show you the way forward. Mary also has some Christmas trees and accessories for those who haven’t got their act together quite yet.
Vanilla Black in addition to books also has some nice gift ideas such as cards and stockings and a few food items. We think VB secretly hate us but we’ve moved on with our lives and are plugging them anyway because this is the time for charity. Or something.
QueArts is a sterling little arts and crafts store across from Kennington Park and they also undertake framing. Great for your creative or just bored friends.
Bee Urban is bee based charity in the middle of Kennington Park (behind the cafe) selling all sorts of honey and honey related things such as candles, fragrances, soaps and even cards. An interesting place to check out even if you don’t buy anything. And they sell Kennington honey!
Walworth Garden and Urban Botanica While perhaps not the easiest thing to wrap, have you ever considered the gift of houseplants? The charity and juggernaut of horticulture, Walworth Garden are selling cacti, cards and other things in their geodesic dome. While over in Kennington Cross, UB is one of the few places on earth where you can sip your Minor Figures chai latte while browsing Boston ferns.
Umber Works We’ve never seen an actual human being inside Umber Works in Kennington Park Road, but accordingly to their website they run a range of pottery workshops and offer gift vouchers. Of course, the downside of this is that you might be getting useless ceramic ashtrays for the next five years.
Over the years our ever changing manor has been captured in many ways, and one of those is by music videos. The videos below depict our space over span of almost 40 years.
For those of a certain age the first video is of course ‘Come on Eileen’ by Dexy’s Midnight Runners. Circa 1982, after the first minute the video is shot at the corner of Brook Drive and Hayles Street near Elephant and Castle. Note the kids playing by the still existing bomb damage, later replaced by mid 80’s housing. The cornershop featured sadly didn’t survive the pandemic.
Our second video is ‘Marks to Prove It’ by the sadly defunct band Maccabees and depicts an Elephant and Castle in 2015 which was already in a confusing and quite bewildering stage of redevelopment. We must admit to a slight bias in this case as we’ve seen these boys at Glastonbury, but is very unlike us to brag.
Our final video ‘Anakin’ from the grime artist Blanco and was shot in the Kennington Estate close to Oval in 2020. Note the shops in Kennington Park Road. The three videos are testament to our dynamic and ever changing environment.
Located at the very pinnacle of the Runoff catchment area, you might not know about the nine storey Lambeth Palace Library. In fact, you’re probably thinking ‘SAY WHAT, there’s a nine storey library in Greater Kennington?!’ The massive structure opened in 2021 in a pocket of Archbishop’s park and is a victory of understatement (a bit like us). While it’s a research library primarily, they allow access to us pesky Greater Kenningtonians when they have an exhibit and is now an establish part of the Kennington cultural scene (it’s a thing).
‘Her booke’ Early Modern Women and their Books at Lambeth Palace Library is the petite yet perfectly formed exhibit currently on in the exhibition room. Focussing on a time when female erudition was viewed with suspicion, this exhibition highlights material owned, written, commissioned, and translated by women from the 15th to early 19th centuries. It celebrates the ways in which women and their books were an integral part of England’s devotional, intellectual, and bibliographical cultures. Insightful little sections outline the production and use of books for personal and spiritual practices; books as a statement of power and piety; books as a site to demonstrate women’s intellectual ability; and the material evidence of women’s book ownership.
Items on display in this almost complete dark but still legible exhibit include correspondence from a future Archbishop of Canterbury about Jane Austen; first editions of the works of Mary Wollstonecraft and her daughter Mary Shelley including a first edition of Frankenstein which we naughtily photographed, and books translated for Elizabeth I. They’re displayed alongside other works related to known and unknown women from the collection (not all religious). And if you can’t get enough there are a selection of free talks about women and books that can be booked on the website.
‘Her booke’ Early Modern Women and their Books at Lambeth Palace Library is on now until 21 November and is totally free. Entering the building is a bit daunting as you need to get buzzed in, but just say you’re going to the exhibit and the guards will merrily show you the way. And don’t miss the quiet lily pond studded lake when you walk up the stairs. And you can have some random fun by scoring some King Charles honey in reception.
Hosted in collaboration with Daniel Cobb Estate Agents and none other than the Holy Ghost himself, the North Lambeth Parish Fete is coming up this Saturday, and we will certainly be there (we’ve actually never been but more on that later). The Fete is a big event in the Greater Kennington social calendar and very inclusive. It’s now bigger and better than ever, and the weather looks pleasing indeed.
On a very rare occasion we visited the gardens of Lambeth Palace and they’re stunning, extensive and almost never open to the public. The price of a ticket itself (£5) justifies a wander around, and no booking is required. According to our sources, the Fete is kid friendly but not exclusively, and is known for its dog show and features prizes, including fastest sausage eater and least obedient (we assume these prizes are for the dogs and not humans). There is also a raffle, face painting, St. Anselm’s Junior Choir, and races for the kids. If you don’t have kids there’s a Pimms tent to keep you sane. And if you do have kids there’s a Pimms tent to keep you sane, run by the great Black Prince pub. And there are a number of great local food stalls looking pretty delish on the website. And you even get the chance to watch old white dudes throw serviettes in the air.
We haven’t been to this little Fete before as it always clashes with our team building weekend at Glastonbury. Unfortunately the Runoff Manadarins have called a day on this small kernel of happiness following an incident two years ago in which we asked Phil from accounts to fetch the ciders during Billie Eilish, only to found him two days later face down behind the ‘Sonic Wow’ dance tent. And some excuse about us not remembering anything about team building when we return. Such is the stress of working here.
